Rpainter

umm when I notice the rust I was only running 2-10 gph nozzles into the intake horn. the only mods at the time was little a bigger charger and 75 hp nozzles.. which should apply to 90% of the trucks.

Bswope

Lets see yours??????

Ace

So were those 75hp injectors, or nozzles? Or are you just trying to confuse the issue at this point? What's the rust level with the manifiold nozzles? Sounds like you are saturating it so bad detonation will kill it before anything else.

Fact is, a properly setup and functioning W/M system will not leave any water anywhere except in the tank and lines. Want to argue that point, you can argue it with somebody else, I'm through here. Have a nice day!

Rpainter

So were those 75hp injectors, or nozzles? Or are you just trying to confuse the issue at this point? What's the rust level with the manifiold nozzles? Sounds like you are saturating it so bad detonation will kill it before anything else.

Fact is, a properly setup and functioning W/M system will not leave any water anywhere except in the tank and lines. Want to argue that point, you can argue it with somebody else, I'm through here. Have a nice day! [/QUOTE]

75 hp injectors my first set, rust level was to the point of rust flakes on the head that I could break off pieces the size of quarters. I guess you are the king of water injection but the two nozzles into the intake horn is putting little to no water into #5 and 6 cylinders. been there and done that. my coated pistons look great after 30 hooks to the sled and 25k of road miles. bye now

Green04HO

Could you please expand on this a little further? I don't understand how there could be a difference between cylinders. I know the back two cylinders run hotter because of the cooling passages in the head, and I've heard the intake plenum might not flow so well to the back cylinders, but there all getting the same mixture of air/water from the intake.

Rpainter

you may be getting water back there but when I put a egt probe at either cylinder I could not tell the difference. At least when compared to the other cylinders. not all of the cylinders will get the same mixture. 2,3,4 will get the most due to being under to the intake horn.

trik396

Rpainter, are you saying you did in fact shut off engine right after water injection thereby causing rust or did you run 5 minutes or longer to burn off any residual water??? Enquiring minds need to know..

Rpainter

I used to pull into the driveway and let it cool down to 400 on the egt and then shut if off.never really timed it but I am sure it was not 5 minutes from time water was off to shutdown.

Bswope

Rob with the mods I have what would be a good starting point to bring my water on at? I dont sled pull(G56) just a street truck and tow rig.

Plus I dont have my studs in yet, is this gonna be a problem with spraying water?

John_P

So were those 75hp injectors, or nozzles? Or are you just trying to confuse the issue at this point? What's the rust level with the manifiold nozzles? Sounds like you are saturating it so bad detonation will kill it before anything else.

Fact is, a properly setup and functioning W/M system will not leave any water anywhere except in the tank and lines. Want to argue that point, you can argue it with somebody else, I'm through here. Have a nice day! [/QUOTE]
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Ace:

No offense to you Sir, but I have read through the posts here between you and Robert (Rpainter) here and I find it strange that you don't seem to believe what he is saying to you about the rust that can be caused by these water systems.

FWIW,...as Robert already pointed out in a previous post to you, I also had trouble with rust in my cylinder head twice, when using JUST water, or a combination of water and methanol. You asked where the rust was? On my truck it was mainly in the intake plenum in the cylinder head. I had the rust while running the Snow Performance Water System with two (2) .625ml nozzles placed in the intake horn on the engine. Scheid Diesel found the rust when they built the engine up for more power and recommended to me to start using a water pump/anti-rust additive such as NAPA's "Number 13" or "Bars Leak" Water Pump/Anti-Rust Additive in with my distilled water. I can tell you that since doing that, I have not had anymore rust problems!
At this time I have a "Scheid Water Injection System" with a 850psi max pump and also five (5) nozzles which are machined directly into the cylinder head. Most, if not all, of the engines Scheid builds for the sled pulling trucks also have Scheids Water Systems and they are running more pressure than me with as many as twelve (12) nozzles in the engine! Those trucks will go through as much as one to one and a half gallons of water in 300 feet!
ALL of those trucks/engines also use an additive as I described above to prevent rust formation in those engines. Any of you that don't believe that can call Scheid Diesel and ask them for yourself.

In the discussions here in this thread about "cool down" and water not evaporating inside the engine, I would agree that using the water and then shutting down the engine shortly thereafter is NOT GOOD and would contribute to the problem of rust. As Robert pointed out, driving your trucks after using the water for some distance will help get the water out through evaporation, but I realize that is not always possible.

Another point brought up here is about the "cooling effects" of water on the cylinders. As Robert has told everyone here, the systems tend to keep cylinders 2,3, and 4 fairly cool depending on the system you are using.
In my testing on Scheid's Engine Dyno, we found that my Snow System with the two .625ml nozzles in the intake horn, were keeping cylinders 2,3 and 4 fairly cool, but cylinders 1,5 and 6 were getting way too hot. When a thrid nozzle was added, the pressure on the Snow RV Water Type Pump (200psi)
would drop to an alarmingly low 130-140psi! So,.....because of that and to save my engine, I bought and had Scheid install their high pressure system which has worked great. BTW,.....all of this testing was done with CORSA Engine Diaganostic System with temeprature probes on each cylinder!

Finally,.....let me say this and in no way is this to disrespect anyone Member here. Robert Painter has been running his water systems for quite some time on his truck. Like me, he has ALOT of "trial and error" with his set-ups and has had to "tune" his system to his needs. IMHO,.....he is knowledgeable on the subject of water injection and has alot of experience on this subject.
I want to thank him for all of his input over the years on DTR!

Thanks Robert!

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John_P

Green04HO

John do you have any pics of the nozzles in the head?

John_P

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No,....but I will see if I can get some taken and get them up on here for you guys.

Green04HO

Thanks!
I just installed the Cooling Mist dual pump setup and now I'm wondering if it's doing me any good. Do you think it would be possible to add nozzles to the top of the plate on the intake for the 1,5,&6 cylinders? I really don't want to pull the head if I don't have to. I assume in order to machine the ones into the head, the head has to be off?

John_P

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Green04HO:

Yes,......Scheid Diesel did have my head off the engine when it was machined for the nozzles. I don't see a way to do it any other way, but maybe some of the other Members will chime in here.

mikmaze

Angelo, I wonder if you can put a nozzle into the stock map sensor location which is rearward and closer to the rear cylinders, and move the map sensor to one of the locations where a boost bolt is usually mounted? not lookin at the motor right now, only thinking about what I can see in my mind, and that is a dark and scary place !