12valve

Im in the process of installing 12mm arp studs in the 06 in my sig.
I think i read that you need to screw it all the way in, and back out half or a full turn...
My question is: when i torque down the nut, the stud will screw in too, till it bottoms out. How do i go about doing that?

is the torquing sequence important, when replacing one for one?

how much should o torque them down? 125 lb/ft like in the instructions?

What kinda pressure should it stand like that with mpi twins? is nitrous possible with only studs?

An answer to any question is greatly appreciated!

Billy Ram

You screw the studs all the way in and just snug them. I wouldn't tighten them any more than snug or hand tight and I wouldn't back them out. You don't want them sticking up too much.
Some folks will tell you to bottom tap but there's no need to if the studs go in deep enough only a few threads are above the nut. The studs go in deeper than the bolts that came out.

wap

You cant go wrong with the 125 ftlb tq but I went ahead and did mine to 130. I figure if my wrench isnt calibratied just right and is a lil low I could make up for it, and not that its really gona make a diff but that also an extra 5 ftlbs of clamping force. I have about 150-200 miles on my studs and I am about to retq em.

I dont know how important the sequence is. I did mine by it by I also know others that are makin quite a bit more power than me that just did them one at a time in what ever sequence that they wanted to.

Nitrous is possible but I dont know how much.

60 lbs of boos should be no problem and if installed correctly I wouldnt even sweat 70lbs. I know of one member here that runs 80psi through his twins with the standard ARPs, so they can handle twins.

PourinDiesel

Bottom tap, bottom tap, bottom tap.....

cquestad

I did 135 I think? Let me look. Bottom tap...

Billy Ram

I would start in the center of the head and work outward. The motor needs to be cool and I would remove one bolt at a time and torque the stud to 90-100 ft lbs. After all the studs are in bring them to 110-115 ft lbs and then to 125 ft lbs. Then go over them again at 125 ft lbs. Going over the rated torque may over stress and weaken the studs. Before replacing your lower rocker box it needs to be clearanced for the rear stud nut. You can see where it needs to be ground by putting the box on the head and seeing where it makes contact with the nut. Take a little bit off at a time with a Dremal tool till it clears enough for the box to sit flat.

12valve

Billy ram, do you mean the aluminum thang that goes all over the head, where the plastic thing sits on?

if so, yeah that had to be grounded!

Billy Ram

That's it. The lower one that goes on first. You could have a real mess if you forgot to grind clearance for the higher sitting nut. It will hold your lower rocker box off your head in the back a let the oil pour down the back side of your motor. Looks like you have every thing under control.

jdstrd

how hard is arps to install. and how much is a bottom tap? im about too do mine

82NDSNPR

bottom tap is 9 bucks but you if your like me and cant find one i got a tap and then a tap socket so i could run it all the way down to the bottom once that is done i put some motor oil on the studs ran the stud all the way down and hand tight i did not go tq in steps i went to 130 right off the bat since im doing mine one at a time i dont see the point in lossing the head off the gasket just to tq it back down to 125. if you only go to 90 and your doing them one at a time then you are lossing the head off the gasket the instructions are for a motor out of the truck it says to take head off and then tap and then put head back on and tq in steps but if the head is already installed then i dont see the need to do the steps. i also pulled the rockers out completely you will need to remove at least the ext side to get the studs in.