DiezelSmoke

I run it in my 07 5.9, I wouldn't run in a 6.7. Cummins actually made a "Fuel Oil Blender" to filter and mix it 5%. I use to have the Cummins part# for it. You can also run it in your gas motors if you like. If you mix it to heavy it will smoke and may start hard.

fabwelder

Try putting a couple big magnetics in the barrel of used oil

supersonictoys

actually the oil coming out of the machines you mentioned is the dirtiest oil you could use. your atv and dirt bike have transmission gears and wet clutches in the oil and most likely NO oil filter at all . you will have way more iron in that oil than you would in your trucks used oil with or without a filter . same thing with your lawn mower and generator, no filter and crudely made cast iron parts with a non pressurised lubrication system = lots of metal in the oil. you are living dangerously

SpeedyWS6

Well tonight on my way home I stoped at the pump and put 5.5 gallons of diesel in the truck, it had 3 gallons tops already. Then I put 5.5 gallons of clean/virgin 15-40 in with it. I started the truck up and let it idle for a min because I will admit I was a little nervous cause that was a heavy mix. Everything seemed fine so i took off down the road, with an extra 5 gallons of diesel in the bed.

I honestly could not tell a difference in the way the truck ran. I think the egt's may be 50 degrees higher but that is so small it's hard to be sure. I romped on it a few times and felt no difference in performance at all, it does put out a little more haze but that is it.

As cheap as I can get the oil, I'll run it as long as I can. I will do some more testing later. Maybe even a few dyno pulls between straight diesel and a 50-50 mix with oil.

dieselnewbie

Speedy,

How much do you pay for the virgin 15-40?

Thanks,

DT.

sdaly

Funny, I was just thinking about using a magnet on a stick to stir around in the oil, but dropping them in the bottom of the barrel might work just as well.

sdaly

I would agree with you, if this oil were actually run to its full service life in these machines. These machines get pretty light use and so the oil drained from them still has that same nice amber color as the fresh oil that gets poured in. I change the oil in these machines based on time (number of months) becuase they don't get used enough to change based on engine run time. Don't worry, I barely get 2 gallons of oil out of all these machines combined. It's the oil from the truck and cars that gets me the greatest amount. I'll take my chances that some flecks of <10µ aluminum and brass are no match for the tool steel that the injectors are made from.

BTW, these are all Honda small engines. I know you might say there's no difference between these and a Briggs & Stratton, and I wouldn't have believed it myself until I started owning a few Honda engines. I'm quite impressed with how easy these Honda engines are on oil and filters.

2500

just dumped 5 gal of used ATF in my tank. which had aprox. 10 gal of 50% mix of 15/40 virgin oil remaining.

this came from my brother's shop from a transmission flush job. they typically will get 5 gal from a flush. vs very little clean motor oil. most oils drained comes in with a blown head gasket

Minwy

I wouldnt recommend trying this with a synthetic oil, they dont burn very well. My only concern about running oil in these engines would be soot buildup, clean engine oil burns with lots of smoke, then take oil thats got extra soot in it cant be too good for already sensitive injectors. Cummins and Detroit both have oil reburn systems on their engines , but those are engines with much larger injectors and much bigger less sensitive holes in the nozzles and the concetration is not very high at all. They do it to reduce engine oil changes, not to enhance fuel burn.

edtyler

Hi,

I wonder if running a bypass filter, like the Frantz would result in clean enough oil to use as a fuel supplement without further filtering. I have not had a UOA, but a sample taken at 20K miles stored in a glass jar for a month with a magnet taped to the side of the jar showed no visible magnetic residue.

I know it is possibly risky and if I decided to do this the container for holding the use oil would need to be very clean, but it seems like the oil itself would be very clean having been cycled through the Frantz while in use.

Thoughts?

Minwy

Most wear metals in an engine are non magnetic. Most wear particles in an engine are too small to be seen with the naked eye, unless you have a severe problem. I would estimate over the life of an engine like the 5.9 you would have less than 1/2 cup of material worn off the entire engine before you start having problems with rings and or bearings. The problem isnt necessarily wear metals that would cause problems in a fuel system. Oil analysis numbers are given in parts per million, with double digit numbers showing a problem, single digit number being the norm. Soot numbers on the other hand is given in percent, or parts per 100 a much much higher concentration than any amount of wear metals will ever have in typical used engine oil.

forcefed88

I am heavily considering doing this in my 2006. I have a friend that has been doing it for over a year. He says that he filters the oil with a 1 micron filter. He says it takes a little while for only 1 gallon of oil. His truck is an 01.

I read a few years ago that large truck stops dumped WEO into the fuel tanks. They had a certain allowable percentage. I wonder if that was true, and if they still do it.

Deesil

Best post I've seen in this thread yet.

I would say the only time you'll have any appreciable ferrous metals in your oil would be in the very early stages of any engines life as the engine is being broken in, other than that, mostly brass and copper with some lesser amount of other alloys. If you are finding a lot of ferrous material in your oil pan, you have a problem. The magnetic drain plug in my pan is just about spotless every time I drop the oil, as it should be.

On topic, I say if you want to do it, knock yourself out. It's not for me though, I won't be dumping any WMO in my tank, but I wouldn't have any problems dumpin in virgin stuff, but I usually put that in the crank case . Oh, and I wouldn't put Syn in the tank no matter what.

sdaly

I ran 2 gallons of synthetic WMO drained from my wife's BMW and couldn't tell the difference. The fundamental difference with sythetics is there are fewer incomplete hydrocarbon chains (no missing oxygen bonds in the chain) so it is less likely to oxidize. Also because of this quality, it also generally means that fewer additives are in synthetic oil. Maybe synthetic is less apt to burn because of its complete hydrocarbon chain composition, but it will burn nonetheless. If you don't believe me, you hold a rag soaked in synthetic oil while I light a match underneath it. Or just pile up a bunch of rags soaked in synthetic oil in the corner of your garage on a warm day and let us know what happens.

2500

great feedback!

have been worrying about synthetics getting mixed in with waste motor oils. naturally once mixed there's no way to tell.