55_Cans

If you are installing new calipers ignore this. You can also get caliper pins and rubber boots. I find the boots commonly break and allow water to rust the pins. They are cheap to replace at the same time and ensure the caliper floats like it should.

Totallyrad

I just had to do rear calipers again. As with the last time the left, driver's side, failed. O'reily's did swap them, no issue. What I'm finding is that many of the lifetime warranted parts suppliers have begun changing their idea of what constitutes lifetime. They'll swap them once, and the replacement has from a 30 to 90 day warranty and that's all you get.

ronporterfield

I did everything as you said (except anti-seize compounds). Installed new rotors, calipers, and bled brakes. Now the rear brakes don't work. Is there something to do with the anti-lock brake system to reset it, or did I miss something?

2005 3500 RAM Laramie 5.9 Cummins Long bed crew cab dually.

55_Cans

Let me ask a stupid question. You changed the calipers, did you swap them - put drivers on passengers and visa versa? If installed opposite the bleed line will be lower than the piston and will not allow the trapped air to escape.

Diesel Junkie

Nice write up.
I am at 145k miles.
My pads are thin. but theres no pulsation on the pedal.

Would you pad slap it? Or go all the way in and turn the rotors and replace seals and parking break shoes?

Are people replacing wheel bearings on mileages like this or leaving them alone?

Thanks,
Chris,