2004 electrical gremlins
#62
Don't mean to resurrect an old thread but I'm just curious how things are going now? I'm having similar lighting problems with my 04 and am ready to order the "block". I played with the fcm and pins and everything worked for awhile but now my lighting issue is back.
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Bakestrum12 (02-01-2017)
#64
Registered User
Thread Starter
I did complete the manual shift T-case swap. It has not shifted itself since either!!!
Rebuilt the case. Found a crack in the front half while it was apart. Welded it up, and it hasn't leaked yet. Other than the "SERV 4WD" idiot light staring at me, it has performed flawlessly.
Installed a double deep Mag Hytech tranny pan, and rear diff cover. Diff cover was a splurge. But, the tranny pan was a must. I am a firm believer in deep cast tranny pans. Soo many benefits. But since then, the front pump seal has started puking. I need to pull the tranny to change it. This tranny acts/shifts soo good, I am afraid to mess with it, LOL.
But, most recently, it has started running quite crappy. And, yesterday, it started cutting out. Like, the engine shuts down for a split second. Then lights back off. A few times this has happened successively, and makes it feel like the engine is stumbling. Thought I felt some weird surging this morning. Followed by one of the stumbling sessions.
That is all new as of yesterday. But, for months now it has ran terribly. Rough idle (rattles the dash). And sluggish at part throttle. If this is injectors again, it gets parked. And will go up for sale. When I installed the injectors, I also installed a 2-micron filter kit. And if these injectors are soo fragile that, that is not enough precaution, I want nothing to do with this POS. I now officially HATE common rail diesel engines. I want my mechanical pump back soo bad it is not funny. The worst part about the way it runs? Every now and then, it clears up, and runs beautifully! This frustrates me almost worse than when it runs poorly! I hate this truck.
Common rails are great when everything is in perfect order/condition.
But, they require much, much more maintenance. Suffer ridiculously more component failures. Are extremely hard to troubleshoot unless you are trained. Rely on a pee-poor wiring harness, and connections with pee-poor integrity, to keep your engine running. And, the cost of upkeep/maint./REPAIRS/ownership is sky high! A mechanical diesel is stone simple, stone reliable, will run seemingly forever with basic maint., and ALWAYS runs the same. Common rail? No freaking thank you!
Bye-the-way: no codes. At least none that pop up cycling the key three times. All I get is "DONE".
Rebuilt the case. Found a crack in the front half while it was apart. Welded it up, and it hasn't leaked yet. Other than the "SERV 4WD" idiot light staring at me, it has performed flawlessly.
Installed a double deep Mag Hytech tranny pan, and rear diff cover. Diff cover was a splurge. But, the tranny pan was a must. I am a firm believer in deep cast tranny pans. Soo many benefits. But since then, the front pump seal has started puking. I need to pull the tranny to change it. This tranny acts/shifts soo good, I am afraid to mess with it, LOL.
But, most recently, it has started running quite crappy. And, yesterday, it started cutting out. Like, the engine shuts down for a split second. Then lights back off. A few times this has happened successively, and makes it feel like the engine is stumbling. Thought I felt some weird surging this morning. Followed by one of the stumbling sessions.
That is all new as of yesterday. But, for months now it has ran terribly. Rough idle (rattles the dash). And sluggish at part throttle. If this is injectors again, it gets parked. And will go up for sale. When I installed the injectors, I also installed a 2-micron filter kit. And if these injectors are soo fragile that, that is not enough precaution, I want nothing to do with this POS. I now officially HATE common rail diesel engines. I want my mechanical pump back soo bad it is not funny. The worst part about the way it runs? Every now and then, it clears up, and runs beautifully! This frustrates me almost worse than when it runs poorly! I hate this truck.
Common rails are great when everything is in perfect order/condition.
But, they require much, much more maintenance. Suffer ridiculously more component failures. Are extremely hard to troubleshoot unless you are trained. Rely on a pee-poor wiring harness, and connections with pee-poor integrity, to keep your engine running. And, the cost of upkeep/maint./REPAIRS/ownership is sky high! A mechanical diesel is stone simple, stone reliable, will run seemingly forever with basic maint., and ALWAYS runs the same. Common rail? No freaking thank you!
Bye-the-way: no codes. At least none that pop up cycling the key three times. All I get is "DONE".
#66
Registered User
Thread Starter
Have not posted in here in a long time.
Bakestrum12, do you have any info on how you got all the electrical stuff to work with the 12v? Like dash stuff and such? I am very seriously considering the beginning of a P-pump 24v build. After saying that:
The truck still runs like dookey. Exactly like I stated in post#64. It just idles, and runs "rough". And, gutless. Most of the time. But, every now and then.....it runs flawless!
But, never for more than a few miles, or maybe 10 minutes. I hate it! When it does clear up and run good, it feels like a rocket-ship compared to how it normally runs. This leads me to believe the issue is electrical
Last year I moved my work home, and now I just don't drive enough to worry about it.
And, when I do need it, it still runs and drives well enough to get the job done. So, I have neglected it for the last year. But, camping season is here, and we have a few trips planned.
I need to pull our toy-hauler with it. I want to figure out what is wrong once and for all. I bought a FCA back when I was having the cut-out issues. But, I figured that one out.
It ended up being the wire that was left behind from pulling the remote start, that was connected to the CPS. Not sure how I didn't see the wire when I yanked the garbage remote start system.
Anyways, that wire was chaffed through, and shorting out, killing the engine. Removed that wire, problem solved. Now I have a brand-new FCA sitting in my tool-box. I may swap it just to see if the truck runs any better.
IDK? I hate just throwing parts at stuff. But, I can't diagnose this mess. I took it to a good freind that owns a shop, he put his scan tool on it. No codes. Couldn't find anything wrong at all.
Even went so far as killing injectors to see if he could single out a bad one. But, each one he killed made a huge difference in how the truck idled (even worse). So, I am stumped.
The only local shop I would trust to figure this out, is too far away for me to get the thing there with my schedule (southwest diesel).
I really hate the common rail system. It is far to complicated for my liking.
Bakestrum12, do you have any info on how you got all the electrical stuff to work with the 12v? Like dash stuff and such? I am very seriously considering the beginning of a P-pump 24v build. After saying that:
The truck still runs like dookey. Exactly like I stated in post#64. It just idles, and runs "rough". And, gutless. Most of the time. But, every now and then.....it runs flawless!
But, never for more than a few miles, or maybe 10 minutes. I hate it! When it does clear up and run good, it feels like a rocket-ship compared to how it normally runs. This leads me to believe the issue is electrical
Last year I moved my work home, and now I just don't drive enough to worry about it.
And, when I do need it, it still runs and drives well enough to get the job done. So, I have neglected it for the last year. But, camping season is here, and we have a few trips planned.
I need to pull our toy-hauler with it. I want to figure out what is wrong once and for all. I bought a FCA back when I was having the cut-out issues. But, I figured that one out.
It ended up being the wire that was left behind from pulling the remote start, that was connected to the CPS. Not sure how I didn't see the wire when I yanked the garbage remote start system.
Anyways, that wire was chaffed through, and shorting out, killing the engine. Removed that wire, problem solved. Now I have a brand-new FCA sitting in my tool-box. I may swap it just to see if the truck runs any better.
IDK? I hate just throwing parts at stuff. But, I can't diagnose this mess. I took it to a good freind that owns a shop, he put his scan tool on it. No codes. Couldn't find anything wrong at all.
Even went so far as killing injectors to see if he could single out a bad one. But, each one he killed made a huge difference in how the truck idled (even worse). So, I am stumped.
The only local shop I would trust to figure this out, is too far away for me to get the thing there with my schedule (southwest diesel).
I really hate the common rail system. It is far to complicated for my liking.
#67
Registered User
Thread Starter
Soo, against my better judgement (better? LOL), I swapped that new FCA in this morning before I had to run a bunch of errands.
Truck ran smooth as silk for the whole 80 mile morning.
Could I really have just fixed this thing by throwing a random part at it?
I am afraid to jinx myself, and say its fixed. So, I am going to give it some time. And, see how long it runs well.
But, this mornings errands were quite enjoyable.
Truck ran smooth as silk for the whole 80 mile morning.
Could I really have just fixed this thing by throwing a random part at it?
I am afraid to jinx myself, and say its fixed. So, I am going to give it some time. And, see how long it runs well.
But, this mornings errands were quite enjoyable.
#69
Registered User
Thread Starter
Soo, against my better judgement (better? LOL), I swapped that new FCA in this morning before I had to run a bunch of errands.
Truck ran smooth as silk for the whole 80 mile morning.
Could I really have just fixed this thing by throwing a random part at it?
I am afraid to jinx myself, and say its fixed. So, I am going to give it some time. And, see how long it runs well.
But, this mornings errands were quite enjoyable.
Truck ran smooth as silk for the whole 80 mile morning.
Could I really have just fixed this thing by throwing a random part at it?
I am afraid to jinx myself, and say its fixed. So, I am going to give it some time. And, see how long it runs well.
But, this mornings errands were quite enjoyable.
I was driving by a local diesel-shop yesterday (A2Z Diesel) so I called to see if they had a minute to take a look. Ben (the owner) thinks my factory lift-pump is failing. This truck is an HO 04'. Only reason I know is because it has an HE351 on it. The cover off the engine is long gone. It came from the factory with the lift-pump mounted on the filter canister. But, has had the factory in-tank pump installed. He put a scanner on it and found nothing wrong. Said he could check the fuel pressure, but I would have to leave it. I didn't have time. Also said, he would bet $100 the lift pump is failing. I can buy that. It has a ton of miles on it. He also said it actually runs pretty good, and that he really doubts I have an injector issue (yet) LOL. But, if it doesn't run the same all the time, with no rhyme or reason why, something is wrong.
Of course he tried to sell me his lift pump set-up. Which I am sure is really nice. He uses good parts. And, has lots of data to back up why his is better than the rest. But, man, its freaking pricey.
And, he doesn't really have a "kit". So I can do it at my leisure myself. I really hate other people working on my truck!
I may just order an Air-Dog........Even if it doesn't cure my issues, it won't hurt. I am sure my pressure is a little low anyways. Which we all know is bad-bad-bad.
#70
Registered User
Thread Starter
Finally decided to pop for a fancy-pants lift pump. Hope this solves the driveability issues.
i should know before tonight (if the rain lets up)
i should know before tonight (if the rain lets up)
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