blackboat

Hi ya'll, thought I'd give quick rundown on the DIY ball joint replacement, since apparently everyone faces it, usually sooner rather than later.<br><br>Parts: $550 from NAPA for both lowers and uppers, plus two outer tie rod ends and a puller that looked handy (it was).<br>Also $80 for shop to press out old and press in new (seemed kind of steep, but they were willing to do it right now, and I didn't want the truck up in the air waiting any longer than possible.<br><br>Time: Remove all parts down to frame, 8 1/2 hours. Reinstall, including new Bilstein shocks (front), 4 1/2 hours.<br><br>I'd write more but it's late, I'm tired, and the Braves just blew it again.<br><br>One hint is that the steering knuckle won't come out and the coil spring can't be released until the upper control arm is disconnected (Hayne's manual described otherwise).<br><br>Other tidbits: Truck at 74K, Lower right joint way shot, lower left not good either but not as bad. Upper right definitely had wiggle while upper left may have had some life left but it's swapped anyway this deep into the thing. Right outer tie rod marginal, left outer tie rod a little worse. Inner tie rods, idler and pitman all good enough for now, will probably swap before next tire change just to get it all.<br><br>All done myself, except for press work (wish I'd bought that last Dake press at auction), in the driveway. Local labor quotes were running $550-$700. So I saved some doing it, plus I know what's under there now.<br><br>Would I recommend it? Well, if you're poor like me it can be done.<br><br>Is it fun? Hell no.<br><br>Not claiming to know what I'm doing, be good at this, or even smart. Thought a quick summary might help someone else facing this as it seems to be an oft-needed repair.<br><br>Thank God it's done; now I can play with those neat gauges this coming weekend.<br><br>Beware of high squish factor potential for the shade tree type attempting this.<br><br>Rob<br><br>PS The people that make pick ups got to know that occasionally some redneck may buy one of their vehicles and eventually work on it at some weird time of the day, like when there's no sun. Why don't they leave some good lips or tabs or whatever in convenient places to clip the trouble light on?<br><br><br>

Lary Ellis (Top)

<br><br>Noted that myself so I found a cheap but fairly strong magnet and hooked it to the light. Now I just place it where it will work well and it finds it's own point to hang from ;D

bullfrogjim

So how does the quality of the new ball joints compare to the stock ones you pulled out? I am just curious because I would rather pay a little more for the best so I dont have to do it again soon. I have heard good things about the moog brand from napa but I dont know if thats what you got or if they even make them for a Dodge. At any rate do they look like they will last a long time?

blackboat

Hi bullfrog,<br><br>Well, they new joints aren't about to seperate, so that's an improvement. Seriously though, I'd seen the NAPA joints mentioned by others on boards and statements that someone got 100K out of their last set. Clueless as to who made them actually. Found some recommendations, needed them, bought them, now they're in.<br> They appear similar dimensionally (big suprise huh?) to the OEM's. I would suspect that on comparable appearing parts tolerances and metallurgy would have drastic effects on service life. However, I'm not cutting one apart for dim. and hardness checks . I sure hope they'll last, 'cause I don't want to keep spending this money. All in all, the whole front end looks puny to me and the shock lower mounting is pure mickey mouse. Can't say I'm real impressed with a lot on the Dodge, but I'll try and be positive: The Dodge DOES keep the rain off my pretty Cummins engine. OK for that.<br><br>Rob