Cruise control on 1997 Dodge
03-20-2005, 04:45 PM
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Cruise control on 1997 Dodge
On the 1997 3500 I just purchased, I stated in another thread about the cruise control not working. I have since noticed, when I push on the CC button on the steering wheel, there is a "light" that "flickers" for a second(on the steering wheel) but then goes out. Cruise control doesnt ever act like it wants to engage. Does this indicate to anybody what my next step in troubleshooting this to be?
thanks,
coadman
thanks,
coadman
03-20-2005, 05:21 PM
#2
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You need to take the cover off the steering column and make sure the wires/connectors haven't pulled apart from tilting the steering wheel. This is very common.
If that doesn't do it replace the keypad, about $30 from the dealer only.
If it goes further than that suggest you buy a factory service manual, you should have one anyway, it will pay for itself on the very first repair that you don't have to take to someone else. There are over 50 pages on the cruise alone. Way too much to try to help you with here.
Buy a manual here
http://www.techauthority.daimlerchrysler.com/
If that doesn't do it replace the keypad, about $30 from the dealer only.
If it goes further than that suggest you buy a factory service manual, you should have one anyway, it will pay for itself on the very first repair that you don't have to take to someone else. There are over 50 pages on the cruise alone. Way too much to try to help you with here.
Buy a manual here
http://www.techauthority.daimlerchrysler.com/
03-20-2005, 06:52 PM
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I unplugged the wire on my parking brake, but parking brake light stayed on. I plugged it back in, and manually reached up and triggered the switch, but light still stayed on. I then sat in the drivers seat, and pushed my cruise control button to "on", amazingly the green light for CC lit up on steering wheel. I should have taken it down the road to see if the cruise control would function, but, regretfully I pushed the on/off CC button again, to see if the light would come back on, I should have known it would stay off, wont even "flicker" now....so, does this tell anybody anything?
thanks,
coadman
Infidel,
I am ordering me a book, but wanted to see if anybody on here could help me, while I wait the few days before the manual arrives.
coadman
thanks,
coadman
Infidel,
I am ordering me a book, but wanted to see if anybody on here could help me, while I wait the few days before the manual arrives.
coadman
03-20-2005, 07:53 PM
#4
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I've been over the complete cruise system on these trucks more times than I want to count and would be happy to help but like I say the book is a necessity. If you get stuck let me know.
Moving around a wire and having something change usually indicates a lose or broken wire someplace, next trick is finding it. A lot of times people will think they've fixed a problem by replacing a part when in reality all they did is move a loose connection. The problem usually comes back.
Moving around a wire and having something change usually indicates a lose or broken wire someplace, next trick is finding it. A lot of times people will think they've fixed a problem by replacing a part when in reality all they did is move a loose connection. The problem usually comes back.
03-21-2005, 12:12 PM
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Originally posted by infidel
I've been over the complete cruise system on these trucks more times than I want to count and would be happy to help but like I say the book is a necessity. If you get stuck let me know.
Moving around a wire and having something change usually indicates a lose or broken wire someplace, next trick is finding it. A lot of times people will think they've fixed a problem by replacing a part when in reality all they did is move a loose connection. The problem usually comes back.
I've been over the complete cruise system on these trucks more times than I want to count and would be happy to help but like I say the book is a necessity. If you get stuck let me know.
Moving around a wire and having something change usually indicates a lose or broken wire someplace, next trick is finding it. A lot of times people will think they've fixed a problem by replacing a part when in reality all they did is move a loose connection. The problem usually comes back.
thanks,
coadman
03-21-2005, 01:21 PM
#6
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No I don't, but am thinking that the parking brake light being on is a warning that something else is wrong in the brake system. The only place where the brakes and cruise cross paths is at the brake light switch at the pedal linkage. The brake light switch is actually three switches, two are used by the cruise and the other for the brake lights. If this were bad it wouldn't make the cruise light flicker though. That sounds more like a 12 volt supply problem. I've run across a couple of the on switches on the keypad that were bad even though they checked out fine with a meter, it needs to be a perfect connection, just a little intermittent open will cause the cruise not to work.
Have you tried the key off/on trick described here to look for codes?
http://dodgeram.org/tech/dsl/trouble..._DTC_codes.htm
Have you tried the key off/on trick described here to look for codes?
http://dodgeram.org/tech/dsl/trouble..._DTC_codes.htm
03-21-2005, 04:13 PM
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Originally posted by infidel
No I don't, but am thinking that the parking brake light being on is a warning that something else is wrong in the brake system. The only place where the brakes and cruise cross paths is at the brake light switch at the pedal linkage. The brake light switch is actually three switches, two are used by the cruise and the other for the brake lights. If this were bad it wouldn't make the cruise light flicker though. That sounds more like a 12 volt supply problem. I've run across a couple of the on switches on the keypad that were bad even though they checked out fine with a meter, it needs to be a perfect connection, just a little intermittent open will cause the cruise not to work.
Have you tried the key off/on trick described here to look for codes?
http://dodgeram.org/tech/dsl/trouble..._DTC_codes.htm
No I don't, but am thinking that the parking brake light being on is a warning that something else is wrong in the brake system. The only place where the brakes and cruise cross paths is at the brake light switch at the pedal linkage. The brake light switch is actually three switches, two are used by the cruise and the other for the brake lights. If this were bad it wouldn't make the cruise light flicker though. That sounds more like a 12 volt supply problem. I've run across a couple of the on switches on the keypad that were bad even though they checked out fine with a meter, it needs to be a perfect connection, just a little intermittent open will cause the cruise not to work.
Have you tried the key off/on trick described here to look for codes?
http://dodgeram.org/tech/dsl/trouble..._DTC_codes.htm
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03-22-2005, 05:05 AM
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Interesting...
I've pulled codes on several '97s with this method including one this past weekend. Must have been a change in the middle of the production year.
Take it to Autozone and have them pull the codes for free.
I've pulled codes on several '97s with this method including one this past weekend. Must have been a change in the middle of the production year.
Take it to Autozone and have them pull the codes for free.
03-22-2005, 07:28 AM
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I live 60 miles from Wichita, Ks, the nearest city that has any "Autozone" type stores, if I happen to be up there in this truck for shopping or business, I might stop by, but too far to drive just to have them check the codes. Interesting info on this truck, my son drove it last night(wanted to show his "girlfriend" what we bought"(LOL)), and came home and told me the cruise control worked for just a bit. Said he pushed the button, light on steering wheel stayed on, so he pushed cruise control set, and it engaged, said he went down the road aways then it went off,,but at least I know the cruise control itself does operate.
coadman
coadman
03-22-2005, 09:19 AM
#12
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Try holding your finger down on the on button and don't let it up. It will tell you if the switch is bad. I've heard of some people correcting the problem by putting a folded up matchbook cover inbetween the button and contacts to force the connection harder.
03-22-2005, 01:48 PM
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Originally posted by infidel
Try holding your finger down on the on button and don't let it up. It will tell you if the switch is bad. I've heard of some people correcting the problem by putting a folded up matchbook cover inbetween the button and contacts to force the connection harder.
Try holding your finger down on the on button and don't let it up. It will tell you if the switch is bad. I've heard of some people correcting the problem by putting a folded up matchbook cover inbetween the button and contacts to force the connection harder.
coadman
03-23-2005, 10:57 PM
#14
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Bill, since all the pump mods on my 97, the CC has gotten really sensitive. The CC wants to give it way more throttle (and too quickly) than it needs on hills. I know this is a common problem after mods. Can the computer be reprogrammed to tune it down? A dealer told me no but I bet it could be done if you could get to the programming level. I'm more accustomed to industrial process controls. I would think the automotive computers would have something like proportional band, integral and derivitive tuning constants for the analog outputs. Do you know if that can be done? TIA! Craig
03-24-2005, 09:46 AM
#15
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Restricting the vacuum flow to the actuator will slow it down. I did it to mine to eliminate the constant up and down on the throttle the stock set up does, wastes fuel. It needs to be restricted quite a bit for any effect, simple method I used was to fill a 1/4" plastic barbed hose coupling full of glue then stick a pin though it before the glue set up. I then installed this in the vacuum line. In my trial and error efforts to slow the cruise down I found that my smallest drill bit, 1/64" was not enough of a restriction.
Suppose you could get fancy and install a needle valve.
The restriction will make your speed slow to resume if you slow down and will cause the mphs to vary more than the stock set up but it's easy to live with and results in an minor mpg improvement.
To slow the cruise down electronically I think you would need come up with a way to make the vacuum signal to the actuator pulsate off and on rapidly. Could be done and made to be adjustable but not by me!
Suppose you could get fancy and install a needle valve.
The restriction will make your speed slow to resume if you slow down and will cause the mphs to vary more than the stock set up but it's easy to live with and results in an minor mpg improvement.
To slow the cruise down electronically I think you would need come up with a way to make the vacuum signal to the actuator pulsate off and on rapidly. Could be done and made to be adjustable but not by me!