Humblecowboy

Well, old truck is having the TC lockup issue again but this time it is happening at a different speed range. I cleaned all of my negative cables and wires and it still hunts for a gear to settle on. This time it's between around 47 to maybe 54 mph. (We recently moved from flat land Humble, TX. to slight hills in East TX.) It acts fine if I'm accelerating in that range but if I'm cruising it wants to get confused as to what gear to shift into. I haven't pulled the PCM connectors to clean them but thinking that isn't the issue since I haven't seen it mentioned here. We had a lot of damp rainy days in May and early June so I'm wondering if I have a corrosion issue somewhere in the wiring. Probably not related but will mention this in case. One day I started the truck after it sat for about a week, put in in drive and it did nothing. Shifted it up to neutral or park then back in drive and it caught and shifted normal. Another day I went to start it and it just turned over and didn't fire. two hours later went out to try again and just for kicks turned the key on, shifted it in to neutral or drive then back to park, hit the key and it fired right up as normal. Haven't run any codes as I never bought an OBD to check it. Anybody got any ideas as to what may be causing the TC lockup and maybe what caused the no trans engage and no start? Thank you Frank

mopar24v

Not sure about the no trans engage. The tc lock up doesn't throw a code and i was only able to pull something up on a snap on scanner. It said something about the TCC.. cant remember 100%. After i cleaned up my wires/corrosion on batteries etc my issue was resolved. Since you have already done that you may want to look into the BD noise isolator. It is only $30 or so and supposedly clears up this issue.

Humblecowboy

Thanks for the info mopar24v. On the trans engage I'm hoping old truck just had a senior moment. I think it's learning that from me LOL. I'm lost as to what TCC stands for. I'm sure it's probably something obvious. Plus, If I do a search and put in BD noise isolator will I get what I'm looking for? I am so un savy as to what a lot of the abreviations are for the truck. I'm thinking of replacing my alt since the one in it is OEM. The main thing confusing me on the TC issue is the speed range it's happening at. Every post I've found here states between 45 and 50 MPH which is what mine used to do. Now mine starts it at about 47 mph and up to 55 mph. I don't know if a bad ground would be causing that??? Going to clean the grounds one more time before anything else.
Thanks again for your help, Frank

maxwellp

I just put one on my 2001 and it fixed it.
https://www.genosgarage.com/product/...gine-sensors-2
TCC = Torque Converter Clutch

The no start is your neutral safety switch, would be one of these - you will have to look at it.
List: Neutral Safety Switch - 1999 Dodge Ram 3500 | O'Reilly Auto Parts

Or your shifter needs adjusting, as it is not going all the way in park.

Humblecowboy

Thank y'all for all the info and the definition of TCC. I am definitely ordering the isolator. Maybe interference

comes with age. I know I get confused more every year that goes by now. Wonder if I can hook one up to my brain

LOL??? On the nuetral safety switch, I am still confused because the engine turned over great but just wouldn't

fire. Is that possible if the switch is going bad? It only happened that one time and has been starting normal

since then. Less than two revs and it fires off. I hate that I have so little knowledge of this truck or any of

the newer vehicles for that matter. When I was younger I could tear into and rebuild any engine/standard trans.

Ahh, the good old days!
Thank you again for all of the help. You all are life savers here. Frank

samaf

The truck in my sig was hunting for gears at about the same speed your problem is and it was a broken wire in the harness that goes to the trans. Trans shop found it and have not had a problem since app.6500 miles. Good luck

Humblecowboy

Thank you for that info samaf, If the noise isolator doesn't fix it then I will be sure to check for bad wiring. It's pretty sad when a transmission won't even work right because of an electrical problem. You don't know whether to take to a mechanic or the TV shop. Once the isolator gets here I am going to pull all the PCM connectors and clean them good plus re-do all of my ground wires. If it's a bad wire then that could get difficult find. I'll post back with my results/findings.
Thank again, Frank

leeboy

One of my batteries was 1 volt less than the other , put in two new batteries and never had the problem again until 3 years later . Changed the batteries again, and once again it was fixed . Cleaning grounds etc.... Provided a temporary fix , but new batteries was my permanent fix

Humblecowboy

I went out and checked the date on my batteries for when I bought them, Dec 2012 so it could also be that if 3 years is about the limit on a good charge. Been raining today and haven't been able to disconnect them and check them with my multi meter. Was yours doing it at about the same speed ranges I mentioned? I looked my wiring over somewhat and noticed the insulation on the main lead from the bay fuse box to the Alt. is beginning to split some. It looks like it's only under the VP where it is wire tied into a loop to take up slack. This could be another possible issue with it too. I shudder to think what a complete wiring harness replace would cost but I guess still cheaper than a new truck note.
Thanks for that lead on the batteries Leeboy. I'll let you know what they read.

leeboy

Yes, mine was right around 45-50 mph ... Was driving me crazy . I never would have thought a battery beginning to go bad could cause such a thing in a transmission .

Humblecowboy

Well, checked the batteries and both putting out equal 12.4v. Cleaned all the terminals and grounds then installed the APPS noise isolator. Thing is, I can't tell if the wire on C-1 on the right of the PCM. The wire I attached it too is orange/dark blue or orange/black?? I can hardly tell with these eyes. The instructions from Geno's call for orange/dark blue on C-1. There is an orange/blue on C-3 to the left of the PCM so I am totally confused. Haven't reconnected the batteries yet and not sure if I dare. Any of y'all who installed one know if the dark blue almost looks black? I hit it with some fine sand paper and now it looks either dark blue or dark gray. Sheesh! Also, if I just happen to have it on the wrong wire, do I risk shorting the whole works out? I will see if I can get a good pic of the instruction sheet and post it for clarity. Thanks all of you for all of this help.

Humblecowboy

OK, here are pics of the wiring and the instructions. One pic shows the orange and blue or black looking like red and yellow but it isn't. Just put it up to show which connector.

Humblecowboy

OK, forget those last two posts of mine, I figured the color out. I was just out under the hood and this light bulb lit up on my head. "Peel the wiring harness sheath open and look in there, it's been protected from the elements!". DUHHHH! It is definitely dark blue and orange.
Can I change my username to 'Anonymous' to save the embarrassment?

Humblecowboy

I guess I have egg on my face now. I reattached the batteries after another thorough ground cleaning then went ahead and did another TPS/APPS reset. Left the APPS noise isolator disconnected from ground then started it up and drove it. Issue gone for now. Don't know what I did different this time from the last time. When I did the reset I did it according to a post I found by KATOOM. This time I pushed the accelerator down much slower and let off the same and I heard a slight click under the hood as the pedal was coming up. Didn't hear that the last time. Plus I put a more thorough effort into the ground cleaning. Also sprayed the leads to the alt. with contact cleaner. For now I can find something else to worry about and hope it lasts another 6 months.
Thank you to all of you for the help.

betsycam

New batteries were the fix for me on this issue.