"in tank" Lift Pump
#17
Registered User
1. this thread is originally from 2006.
2. Don't go by the prices quoted, they are 7 years old..
3. You cannot suck fuel through the intank pump. You need to remove it, obtain a pre-in tank pump fuel module which has the pick up tube and houses the fuel sending unit for the guage. You will then want to mount a pusher pump as near the fuel tank as possible, as pumps actually push liquid more efficiently than pull it, and install the appropriate fuel line and connector up to the warranty block or fuel line coming out of the vp44, wire it up, check the pressure and drive it.
My FASS pushes fuel at 16 psi to the vp inlet. The factory warranted in tank POS delivered 8 at idle...that's why I replaced it. $500 for FASS or $1800 min. for a vp44...
Save that $50 bucks for mad money after you replace your stock set upo with a FASS, AirDog, Carter, walbro etc etc.....
2. Don't go by the prices quoted, they are 7 years old..
3. You cannot suck fuel through the intank pump. You need to remove it, obtain a pre-in tank pump fuel module which has the pick up tube and houses the fuel sending unit for the guage. You will then want to mount a pusher pump as near the fuel tank as possible, as pumps actually push liquid more efficiently than pull it, and install the appropriate fuel line and connector up to the warranty block or fuel line coming out of the vp44, wire it up, check the pressure and drive it.
My FASS pushes fuel at 16 psi to the vp inlet. The factory warranted in tank POS delivered 8 at idle...that's why I replaced it. $500 for FASS or $1800 min. for a vp44...
Save that $50 bucks for mad money after you replace your stock set upo with a FASS, AirDog, Carter, walbro etc etc.....
#19
If you leave the in tank in place it will become an obstruction when it quits.
#21
Try to look at it like this...it is all about "Flow" we need a certain amount of fuel to both feed the injectors and to bypass the injection pump and carry the heat away to help cool it.
This is why the aftermarket kits all work to increase the size of the fuel lines, better flow. When you have two pumps tied together with stock fuel lines and the first one quits it acts like a clogged line and reduces fuel flow.
You are better off with a single pump with nothing between it and the fuel to slow down fuel flow.
This is why the aftermarket kits all work to increase the size of the fuel lines, better flow. When you have two pumps tied together with stock fuel lines and the first one quits it acts like a clogged line and reduces fuel flow.
You are better off with a single pump with nothing between it and the fuel to slow down fuel flow.
#25
For all you guys with intank pumps,there are some advantages,better to push then pull fuel,practically every vehicle out there has an intank pump,why would that be?Listen carefully before you spend big money and change everything around,drop the tank and block the bypass,the pump produced over 20 psi without any downside and is completely free.See glacial diesels intank pump exposed and my article on how to do it.
#26
Fuel pump replacement woe's
When the 1st lift pump went it wiped out the main injection pump in Las Vegas when the truck was about 7 years old. Had bought the 7 yr extended warranty when i got the truck new in Portland. Fortunately it still had about 2-3 months to go on the warranty so the Dodge truck dealer in LV (can't remember their name) replaced the lift pump but called and said that the injection pump might have suffered damage so they wanted to replace the V-44. I said "OK" and they had the truck for a week or so and completely solved the problem. Next time it went out (at about 120K) i took a friends advice and installed (2) Holly blue pumps in series and by-passed the original lift pump. Ran fine at 1st (outside of Portland OR) headed to San Diego, towing a 2004 Cardinal 325 5th wheel (about 14K lbs loaded) and by the time i got to Chula Vista (about 1000 miles or so the 1st blue pump was leaking like a sieve) so i bypassed it and drove to Desert Hot Springs (just outside Palm Springs) another 200-300 miles or so and it started losing power..checked my pressure guage under the hood and was barely cranking out 3-4 lbs...made it to the RV club i belong to there and ordered a FASS pump, installed it (no good) returned it, got another one, 2nd one wouldn't prime, called the seller in Seattle, told him that it had a 2 Micron filter installed and i knew from my experiance working at Freightliner in Portland that 2 micron filters are only good for a recirculating by-pass system, not a primary system...He agreed adn sent me a 10 micron filter..installed that and was better but still wouldn't put out enough pressure so returned it and had the truck towed to Crystal Chrysler in Cathredal City and they put in a factory tank mounted pump for $1200. Got ahold of Holly and (1) they said that Holly Blue pumps are for gasoline only and diesel use voids the warranty cause they are no good for either diesel oil or Alcohol. I said if alcohol voids the warranty then they arn't good for anything but aircraft fuel cause ALL GASOLINE has ethanol in it. They couldn't answer that one!!!! I asked them if i could buy a rebuild kit and they said NO!!!!!!!!!!! Incidentally i tried just buying a replacement diaphram kit just the other day (5 years later) and the parts guy for Holly told me you STILL can't buy a replacement diaphram or a rebuild kit. HOLLY'S CS sucks now; nothing like when i was a kid and used to put Holly carbs on GM's to replace troublejets (like 60's Cadillacs) I still get emails from somebody named LIZ at Holly telling me how wonderful Holly's are and I wrote back and told her I would NEVER buy anything from either them or any company that doesn't stand behind their products. Probably made in China now...LOL so 5 years later the factory replacement lift pump in the fuel tank still puts out 10LBS and when it goes, i'll have the dealer put in another one, instead of monkeying around with temporary fixes like Holly's or Fass' pumps
#27
Pete,Pep boys,sells the intank exact dealer pump for 200 bucks.I get 13 psi stock and found a way to increase that pressure .But the point is 1200 bucks!!!!.It really is no big deal to drop the tank and do it yourself.
#28
Registered User
I bypassed the factory lift pump on the engine and put in a kit from "Rabster" not sure of the name, it came with a pump, new wiring harness, and a much larger fuel line.
How long do those last, I have over 100,000 miles on it and she is going strong.
How long do those last, I have over 100,000 miles on it and she is going strong.
#29
Cummins Guru
Wow I have been throwing away all these old fuel tank modules for years whenever I install the in tank pumps. I could have been selling them on Ebay.
#30
Hi Dennis: Thanks for the info; when i had the pump replaced over @ Chrystal Mopar in Cathredal City (E. Palm Springs) I was pretty much over a barrel cause I was staying at the RV club i belong to, (Catalina Spa in DHS CA) and they raise hell if you so much as open the hood or wash your truck without a permit. So putting in my own was out of the question. Probably if the Mopar one goes out again and i am home here in WA I would do that, except that i am 68 yrs old and slowing down on doing all my own repairs. Primarily still do all my own work on my Mercedes 560SL up here cause, as an example, the Portland MB dealer Don Rasmussen quoted me $60 for (1) foot of 1/8" fuel injection line so that car is totally unaffordable if i don't do my own work. I even asked the parts guy if Don Rasmussen was enjoying his retirement in the Grand Caymens with the rest of the crooks...LOL