Started fine, drove a few feet, sputter & wont start - '01 2500 5.9 Cummins
#16
Not a fuse problem. Still don't know
The #7 fuse spot in the inside fuse box is the 10A Back-Up LP and it was missing. I had taken it and moved it to #6 for the wipers (as it was pointed out, should have been 25A).
I checked all fuses in both boxes and made sure they were good and placed correctly.
Turned the key, waited for the "wait to start" light to go off and repeated it 5 times before I tried to start it. Same thing. Cranks great but, won't fire up.
I can't hear the light buzzing noise that I always hear waiting for the wait to start light to go off. I hope that isn't the pump in the tank anyway.
So... What would you guys look at next?
Thanks
I checked all fuses in both boxes and made sure they were good and placed correctly.
Turned the key, waited for the "wait to start" light to go off and repeated it 5 times before I tried to start it. Same thing. Cranks great but, won't fire up.
I can't hear the light buzzing noise that I always hear waiting for the wait to start light to go off. I hope that isn't the pump in the tank anyway.
So... What would you guys look at next?
Thanks
#18
Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Byesville Ohio
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Looking at my fuse panel. far left 20-20ACB-1 PWR WNDS. next one down21-20A-CB2 PWR SEATS. Middle column 15A 1 Park Lamps,210A Blower Motor, 12 10AI>O>D> blank,13 10A PWR LOCK,14 10A Cluster B, 15 20A Cigar LT, 16 SPARE, 17 10A ClusterA 18 10A Air Bag,19 10A Air Bag, Right column 3 10A ABS/RWL, 410APWR AMP,525A Wiper,7 10A Back-up,8 10A Radio, 9 10A Engine 10 10A Flasher, 11 10A Ignition FD.
Hope this help until you get a picture. Each colomn reads from top.
Hope this help until you get a picture. Each colomn reads from top.
#19
I don't know which pump runs when you turn the key to the ON position but, I don't hear it since the truck died.
But, fuel has been pulled into the filter since I changed it.
Is it not being primed properly?
The starter cranks it great but, it never seems to fire at all. It doesn't start or chug even quickly.
I will take pics of both fuse boxes and post them.
#21
Sausage Aficionado (In training)
In reading what you are saying above, we are still dealing with a fuel issue. I think we can all agree on that. We can keep going around and around but at this point I am still leaning to one of two things. First of all, out of fuel in the tank. Is there any way you can get a few gallons of fuel in the tank today? If no-go after that, then LP diagnostics are next.
#22
In reading what you are saying above, we are still dealing with a fuel issue. I think we can all agree on that. We can keep going around and around but at this point I am still leaning to one of two things. First of all, out of fuel in the tank. Is there any way you can get a few gallons of fuel in the tank today? If no-go after that, then LP diagnostics are next.
I am about to go get a few gallons of fuel to put in it.
Every time I put fuel in it I reset the trip odometer. I put $40 worth in the last time and the trip OD shows 49 miles.
It still shows 1/4 tank.
Am I not priming it properly?
Here are my fuse boxes. I am going to buy new fuses today.
The one missing is for the radio.
#23
Sausage Aficionado (In training)
I assume you have checked for any blown fuses and if you are going near a parts store, it couldn't hurt to take that fuel system relay with you and get it tested.
#25
Update: Not Starting
- Added 4+ gallons of fuel
- Changed out all mini fuses interior fuse box
- Replaced Fuel System Relay in fuse box under hood
- Bled air out of fuel line
- Primed fuel filter assembly
Won't start.
He told me the filter is getting fuel and it shot out the pressure valve on the side at the top. Not sure which pump is getting fuel from the tank to the filter assembly.
Ok... What should I test next? I am hoping it is electrical at this point.
#26
Sausage Aficionado (In training)
DallasDodge, now we are getting somewhere. You LP is getting fuel to the filter assembly. We can rule that out. Unfortunately we are also getting to the point where someone like Katoom or Sixslug (members of this board and frequent posters and helpers in the 24v section) is going to need to jump in to help. You next steps are to:
Use an OBD2 code reader and check for codes. I have never heard of a VP44 just up and dying without throwing a few codes. In fact a few of them are so specific folks around here refer to them as the 'VP44 Death Codes'.
We still have things to try before we condemn your VP44.
The next step is to bleed the high pressure side of the injection system. To do so you loosen (note I said loosen not remove) the line to one or more of the injectors and crank the engine a few seconds at a time until fuel comes out around the loosened connection. I have never done this myself so I am not totally clear on the procedure - let me see what I can find using search.
While I go do that maybe you find a post from Katoom or Sixslug (there are a lot of them around), click on their name and send them Private Messages asking them to add their experience to this.
Use an OBD2 code reader and check for codes. I have never heard of a VP44 just up and dying without throwing a few codes. In fact a few of them are so specific folks around here refer to them as the 'VP44 Death Codes'.
We still have things to try before we condemn your VP44.
The next step is to bleed the high pressure side of the injection system. To do so you loosen (note I said loosen not remove) the line to one or more of the injectors and crank the engine a few seconds at a time until fuel comes out around the loosened connection. I have never done this myself so I am not totally clear on the procedure - let me see what I can find using search.
While I go do that maybe you find a post from Katoom or Sixslug (there are a lot of them around), click on their name and send them Private Messages asking them to add their experience to this.
#27
Sausage Aficionado (In training)
Found it - here is the thread explaining how to bleed the high pressure side of the injection system. Not hard to do and no special tools needed.
https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...vp44+injectors
https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...vp44+injectors
#28
Registered User
"Fuel filter new just added today"
Fix fuse rating issue.
Turn key on, wait. turn off then back on and listen for 20-30 second hum.
If not:
Crack open #3 and #5 injector lines and crank til starts...then jump out and tighten them back up. Should be a 3/4" open end wrench.
Tip: pick up a box of ***'t fuses. keep in truck. replace with same sized fuse from now on. If it keeps blowing, you got bigger problems!
Contact member "Redlinear" and get a fuse box cover so you know what's what. Tell him Six said hi.
Check fuel pressure with check gauge or install permanent one. You won't be sorry...200 bucks saves 1500...
Do key trick and check for codes. Pray for "P done" after both scans.
Diesel prices suck and giving our current gov't any money makes me ill. Don't go below 1/2 tank, pretend 1/2 is E and just man through it!
Fix fuse rating issue.
Turn key on, wait. turn off then back on and listen for 20-30 second hum.
If not:
Crack open #3 and #5 injector lines and crank til starts...then jump out and tighten them back up. Should be a 3/4" open end wrench.
Tip: pick up a box of ***'t fuses. keep in truck. replace with same sized fuse from now on. If it keeps blowing, you got bigger problems!
Contact member "Redlinear" and get a fuse box cover so you know what's what. Tell him Six said hi.
Check fuel pressure with check gauge or install permanent one. You won't be sorry...200 bucks saves 1500...
Do key trick and check for codes. Pray for "P done" after both scans.
Diesel prices suck and giving our current gov't any money makes me ill. Don't go below 1/2 tank, pretend 1/2 is E and just man through it!
#30
Sausage Aficionado (In training)
Thanks Sixslug, I am starting to get out of my depth.
The first thing I did when I bought this truck was to buy an OBD2 reader, but I realize not everyone can do that. When I go back over this whole thread I think that we have a VP44 full of air.
I know so many folks immediately blame a dead VP44 but that is an awfully expensive part to just throw at a problem. The OP has been really good at being cooperative and not just saying 'I know what the problem is and I just want people to validate me'.
The first thing I did when I bought this truck was to buy an OBD2 reader, but I realize not everyone can do that. When I go back over this whole thread I think that we have a VP44 full of air.
I know so many folks immediately blame a dead VP44 but that is an awfully expensive part to just throw at a problem. The OP has been really good at being cooperative and not just saying 'I know what the problem is and I just want people to validate me'.