24 Valve Engine and Drivetrain Discuss the 24 Valve engine and drivetrain here. No non-drivetrain discussions please. NO HIGH PERFORMANCE DISCUSSION!

Slow to start turned into no start

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 03-30-2013, 02:24 PM
  #1  
Registered User
Thread Starter
 
Brad4406's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Lebanon, OH
Posts: 13
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Slow to start turned into no start

99 Ram 2500 w/5.9 Cummins. Was having a slow to start issue along with every so often while I was driving down the road the Air Bag light would come on. Well, slow to start turned into no start. Lift pump was changed 8 years ago, injector pump three years ago, put on a used injector pump that was supposedly good and just changed the lift pump again after a local show recommended it, but they actually recommended buying an aftermarket Fass or Air Dog pump instead.

The lift pump is the stock Cummins pump; I know they're junk, but I'm just trying to get the truck running to sell it and don't want to drop big money into it. I know I shouldn't have wasted money on a used injector pump, but once again, just trying to get it running to sell.

I'm getting fuel to the injector pump from the lift pump. I'm also getting a small amount of fuel out of the lines at 1, 3, and 4 injectors. I"m getting the same amount of fuel that I was before I changed out the lift and injector pumps. I bled the fuel system when I replaced the injector pump and today after replacing the lift pump.

I read in my manual in the wiring section and noticed the Air Bag system power is intermingled with the fuel system power. Any chance the two problems could be related?

I'm getting fed up and could really use some advice, besides spending big money on an after market lift pump and new injector pump. I'm really leaning towards new injector pump, but I can't stand to spend the money, especially if it could be something else.

Thank you in advance.

Brad
Attached Thumbnails Slow to start turned into no start-02_07_0.jpeg  
Old 03-30-2013, 03:30 PM
  #2  
Registered User
 
Busboy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: On the Farm, Manitoba
Posts: 3,901
Received 36 Likes on 32 Posts
Check for codes first.
Old 03-30-2013, 07:26 PM
  #3  
Registered User
Thread Starter
 
Brad4406's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Lebanon, OH
Posts: 13
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Originally Posted by Busboy
Check for codes first.
I don't have a code reader. Would it show a code, even without running? Can you suggest one to purchase?
Old 03-30-2013, 08:26 PM
  #4  
Registered User
 
nothingbutdarts's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Posts: 398
Received 24 Likes on 22 Posts
Glad you made it over here from FABO. Theses are great guys! Sorry I can't be more help.

You might read some diagnostics here: http://www.bluechipdiesel.com/
Old 03-31-2013, 02:35 PM
  #5  
Registered User
 
Busboy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: On the Farm, Manitoba
Posts: 3,901
Received 36 Likes on 32 Posts
I like the low priced code readers less than $50. When they get broken it's not expensive to replace. They will read the codes with the engine not running. There are parts stores in the US that read codes for free but that's not much help if you can't get the truck there. I currently use a programmer on my truck that reads any codes for me and allows me to reset them but I still keep a cheap one for the other vehicles.
Old 03-31-2013, 04:58 PM
  #6  
Registered User
Thread Starter
 
Brad4406's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Lebanon, OH
Posts: 13
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Originally Posted by Busboy
Check for codes first.
I tried the cycling the key on and off 3 times to get the codes and there wen't any. I'll may go tomorrow and see what I can find at the part stores for a code reader.

Additional information: By just bumping the key to start, the lift pump comes on for approximately 20 seconds; this is what I used to accomplish the initial bleed on the fuel system yesterday. After that, I loosened the #1, 3, and 4 lines at the injectors for the final bleed. Fuel only comes out of the injector lines when the engine is being cranked.
Old 03-31-2013, 05:45 PM
  #7  
Registered User
 
Busboy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: On the Farm, Manitoba
Posts: 3,901
Received 36 Likes on 32 Posts
Originally Posted by Brad4406
I tried the cycling the key on and off 3 times to get the codes and there wen't any. I'll may go tomorrow and see what I can find at the part stores for a code reader.
The key trick only works on the 2001 up or perhaps the late 2000 also. As for bleeding.... the LP pump will run for 25 seconds when the key is bumped, this allows bleeding the LP side, the HP side is bled when cranking the engine so what you have is normal.
Old 04-01-2013, 04:10 PM
  #8  
Registered User
 
rickf's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Pemberton NJ
Posts: 467
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Are you getting any smoke or vapor out of the exhaust? If you are getting white fog then you are getting fuel to the cylinders and it should fire. Grid heaters and batteries good? Cranking fast enough?
Old 09-04-2013, 08:23 PM
  #9  
Registered User
Thread Starter
 
Brad4406's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Lebanon, OH
Posts: 13
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Originally Posted by rickf
Are you getting any smoke or vapor out of the exhaust? If you are getting white fog then you are getting fuel to the cylinders and it should fire. Grid heaters and batteries good? Cranking fast enough?
I didn't notice the last time I cranked it. I'll try to pay attention tomorrow night when I crank it again. The heater and the batteries are good. I replaced the batteries earlier this year and it is cranking fast.
Old 09-04-2013, 08:26 PM
  #10  
Registered User
Thread Starter
 
Brad4406's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Lebanon, OH
Posts: 13
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Update:

I've replaced the lift pump (NOS), injector pump (rebuilt from reputable company that I used the last time), and ECM (refurbished from a reputable company), drained all the old fuel out of the fuel system, put in fresh 5 gallons of diesel, bled the fuel system, and it still won't start. Due to replacing the injector pump Sunday, there is finally fuel coming out of the 1, 3, and 4 injector lines that I left loose for bleeding the fuel system. There are no codes on the ECM. I'm about ready to have this thing towed to the local diesel shop. I'm disgusted and have $2400 less money now. I can't wait to see what they will come up with and how much that will cost me.
Old 09-05-2013, 01:23 PM
  #11  
Registered User
 
VADSLRAM's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: VA Beach
Posts: 665
Received 7 Likes on 7 Posts
It just keeps turning over but no fire or does it sound like it wants to go but can't?
Getting any smoke from the tailpipe when trying?
It sure sounds like fuel but maybe it just isn't getting enough air to get good compression and start?
I know it's a dangerous proposition but if you can pop off the intake elbow or somehow else get a LITTLE ether into the cylinders and see what you get.
If you get even a little start than you can be pretty sure it's fuel related.
Old 09-06-2013, 09:21 PM
  #12  
Registered User
 
high bid's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Sarasota, FL
Posts: 2,158
Received 8 Likes on 8 Posts
Even with 3 of the injector lines cracked loose, it should still start/run.
Old 10-19-2013, 01:04 AM
  #13  
Registered User
Thread Starter
 
Brad4406's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Lebanon, OH
Posts: 13
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Update:

Had it towed to the local diesel shop. He was backed up with other vehicles so it sat for a week. All it needed was bled. I bled it by the book, but couldn't get it to start. $80 and I was back on the road. I'm glad it was an easy fix.

I attempted to drive north Thursday night, but unfortunately there was a pretty good fuel leak so I only made it .5 hours north and then turned back for home. I tried to troubleshoot it before turning for home, but I couldn't find the leak. It was dark when I got home so I waited till Friday morning to troubleshoot it. Quickly found #2 line loose at the injector, removed the bolts for the intake so I could move it, tightened the #2 injector line and the intake, and hit the road.

I drove it 3 hours to my aunt's, then 1.5 hours to mom and dad's, loaded a bunch of stuff on my trailer and filled the bed with stuff, and drove it back. Fortunately, no issues.

Thank you everyone for the advice.
Old 10-21-2013, 10:16 AM
  #14  
Registered User
 
nothingbutdarts's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Posts: 398
Received 24 Likes on 22 Posts
Glad you got it running for cheap, Thanks for the update! See you on FABO.
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Josh Robbins
1st Gen. Ram - All Topics
15
07-11-2014 12:18 AM
winkdemon
ABDTR #5
25
07-24-2009 11:16 PM
DmaxEter
Other
8
06-07-2009 06:51 PM
RZinKY
12 Valve Engine and Drivetrain
12
03-05-2008 11:26 PM
53 willys
3rd Gen High Performance and Accessories (5.9L Only)
34
05-29-2007 01:03 AM



Quick Reply: Slow to start turned into no start



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 09:45 PM.