Replacing yoke on front end differential
04-08-2014, 01:45 PM
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Replacing yoke on front end differential
I'm having to replace the yoke on my front end differential. My old one had a bolt break off in it & can't get it out now.
I was just wondering if it's very difficult to remove the yoke & what is involved. Do you have to drain the fluid from the differential or anything before you take the yoke off?
Also, does it require a special puller to get the yoke off. It's a Dana 60.
Thanks for help or suggestions.
I was just wondering if it's very difficult to remove the yoke & what is involved. Do you have to drain the fluid from the differential or anything before you take the yoke off?
Also, does it require a special puller to get the yoke off. It's a Dana 60.
Thanks for help or suggestions.
04-15-2014, 05:34 PM
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Ok,
If you remove the strap, can you get to the broken bolt ? An EZ out and a nice drill bit can usually get them out...
if not,
You will need to take an air impact wrench and remove the nut holding the yoke in place. This is the big nut in the center of the yoke.Once you remove the nut and washer, it usually just lifts right off. That's the easy part.
Once you fix the yoke, lubricate the seal (replace if it's leaking), making sure the mating surface on the yoke isn't gouged. If so, there are either repair kits, or replacing the yoke is the way to go.
TO re install...
You need to get the specification for the front axle pinion's ft lbs to torque it back on. Most differentials have what is called a "crush collar" inside it and if you just use the gun to crank it back on, you can re-crush the collar again, and change the relative positioning between the pinion and gear, severely messing it up. If you torque it to spec that it was previously torqued to, to originally set the differential up, you can usually get away with not having to completely reset everything. If you feel uncomfortable about the torque spec, you can purchase a FSM (factory service manual) and do it all from scratch again, although most of the time it's not necessary. This would include removing the diff cover, draining the gear oil, using differential staining ink on the ring gear, and spinning the gear around to review the wear pattern in the stain.
Personally, I've never had to go through all of that. I simply retorqued it to factory spec, and reassembled the driveshaft back on, and drove it for the next 100,000 miles, but that's just me.
If you remove the strap, can you get to the broken bolt ? An EZ out and a nice drill bit can usually get them out...
if not,
You will need to take an air impact wrench and remove the nut holding the yoke in place. This is the big nut in the center of the yoke.Once you remove the nut and washer, it usually just lifts right off. That's the easy part.
Once you fix the yoke, lubricate the seal (replace if it's leaking), making sure the mating surface on the yoke isn't gouged. If so, there are either repair kits, or replacing the yoke is the way to go.
TO re install...
You need to get the specification for the front axle pinion's ft lbs to torque it back on. Most differentials have what is called a "crush collar" inside it and if you just use the gun to crank it back on, you can re-crush the collar again, and change the relative positioning between the pinion and gear, severely messing it up. If you torque it to spec that it was previously torqued to, to originally set the differential up, you can usually get away with not having to completely reset everything. If you feel uncomfortable about the torque spec, you can purchase a FSM (factory service manual) and do it all from scratch again, although most of the time it's not necessary. This would include removing the diff cover, draining the gear oil, using differential staining ink on the ring gear, and spinning the gear around to review the wear pattern in the stain.
Personally, I've never had to go through all of that. I simply retorqued it to factory spec, and reassembled the driveshaft back on, and drove it for the next 100,000 miles, but that's just me.
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