Pair of 99s with starting issues
#1
Pair of 99s with starting issues
We have two 24 valve '99s that won't start immediately, you have to bump the starter first then the wait to start light will come on. When wts comes on it will then crank. Is this an ECM issue? Both relatively stock, one has fass with 220k, auto, other airdog with 180k, 6 speed manual. Thanks for any insight, very frustrating.
#3
Registered User
Can you get the codes scanned?
How's the battery voltage, grounds, cables etc.?
Lower than usual voltage can affect the ECM's job...
How's the battery voltage, grounds, cables etc.?
Lower than usual voltage can affect the ECM's job...
#5
is it mandatory for you to have to bump the starter for the fuel pumps to cycle to get it to start? that could be an issue with fuel pressure bleeding off over time while sitting. but from what I have seen on this site when the wait to start light doesn't come on right away it is usually ecm related.
#6
24 valve 2nd gens will turn off the injection pump once it reaches pressure so it doesn't cause the infamous high pressure starting problem...they will then kick on after the pressure drops a little or when you turn the key off and then back on again.
I am wondering what your fuel pressures are? some IP's can be finicky about too much pressure from the lift pump.
I am wondering what your fuel pressures are? some IP's can be finicky about too much pressure from the lift pump.
#7
Registered User
We have two 24 valve '99s that won't start immediately, you have to bump the starter first then the wait to start light will come on. When wts comes on it will then crank. Is this an ECM issue? Both relatively stock, one has fass with 220k, auto, other airdog with 180k, 6 speed manual. Thanks for any insight, very frustrating.
Those modules themselves are pretty durable, I'd be pretty shocked if you had a PCM failure on both vehicles. I'm thinking more like something aftermarket added to both vehicles may be causing problems. Remote start or theft alarm? One of those big constant duty relays for an auxiliary trailer battery? Sometimes they can scramble things when they get turned off or on if they don't have a suppression diode installed across the winding.
Just throwing ideas out there.
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#8
https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...=1#post3224333
i had a similar problem that i think i just fixed. not sure if itll help you or not. open up the fuel filter and check to make sure its full of fuel before first attempt. if its empty, theres your problem. you have fuel leaking down from the vp and filter causing the no start. once the fass/airdog has pushed fuel up (from bumping the starter) they will start up fine. i dont know if it helps but good luck
i had a similar problem that i think i just fixed. not sure if itll help you or not. open up the fuel filter and check to make sure its full of fuel before first attempt. if its empty, theres your problem. you have fuel leaking down from the vp and filter causing the no start. once the fass/airdog has pushed fuel up (from bumping the starter) they will start up fine. i dont know if it helps but good luck
#10
One has the fass wired to run when key is on. The airdog is wired the standard way. Both will crank for as long as you want, will not fire until after you bump starter(key cycle/try to crank), then the wait to start light will come on and then it will start. On the truck with airdog, the wait to start light and airdog come on after first starter bump.
Basically both trucks will not fire until you've bumped the starter first.
Thanks for the replies. Keep em coming.
Basically both trucks will not fire until you've bumped the starter first.
Thanks for the replies. Keep em coming.
#11
do you have a tuner in the truck also? like a smarty? i know when i put the smarty in mine, it changed the way the lift pump cycles when you turn the key on. from the factory, they should cycle for a few seconds before stopping, after you bump the starter they run for 25 or so. it sounds like youre having the same problem i did with air getting into the system. make sure you dont have pin holes, cracks, loose clamps or loose banjo bolts. make sure all crush washers on banjos are in good shape. also, try putting a fuel pressure gauge on the side of your injector pump or on the side of the fuel filter. there should be a schrader valve on the side of both of them. start the truck, shut them off and see how fast the fuel pressure drops and what it drops to when they arent running. sounds like they arent holding enough fuel to keep a prime. sorry if i repeated myself like 6 times, im kinda hung over today.
#12
Doesn't really explain why you have to bump the starter before the wait to start light will come on? I can go out in 30* temps and WTS light/grid heater will not come on until you try to crank it once. Leaning towards ECM issue.
#13
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Location: Shippensburg, Pa
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Check the return fuel line for leaks, mine and quit a few others have had problems especially at the metal connector at the back lower part of the engine or at the fitting at the back of the head.
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Mark Thomas
3rd Generation Ram - Non Drivetrain - All Years
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06-15-2005 04:49 PM