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overheated brake pads

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Old 01-01-2014, 09:00 PM
  #16  
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Whoa! I remember this from last year!!

The rears don't do much unless you are really loaded or towing heavy.

I think this is partly caused by not really being "exercised" very much during the life of the pads... i.e. if you are in a road salt or chemical type de-icer area you may want to check the rears more often, especially in low mileage situations where tire rotations are few and far between....
Old 01-01-2014, 09:21 PM
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Changing out the brake fluid at regular intervals helps a lot. Brake fluid is hygroscopic and absorbs moisture. Moisture in brake fluid = rust in calipers etc.
Flushing brakes out every couple of years and replacing fluid with correct type virtually eliminates caliper problems.
That being said I have one caliper sticking on my old 86 F250 that needs working on - I am not sure but think this is an original caliper (or maybe 2nd one) in a truck 28 yrs old.
Old 01-01-2014, 10:02 PM
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Originally Posted by Mike L
Hi torquefan - can you elaborate a bit on "Now put some protectant on the bare metal and install new slides and boots."

What kind of protectant do you recommend, brand type, brand name or whatever?

Thanks

Mike
Hi Mike.
I have had very good luck using aerosol product "Fluid Film" on the metal. I wipe a small amount on the bare metal with my finger. I then install a new rubber slide boot into the bore and put some silicone brake grease inside the boot before I install the new steel slide.

Just to be clear to everyone: I'm not referring to the the caliper's piston, just the two slides that the caliper bolts go through.
Old 01-02-2014, 12:06 PM
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Originally Posted by Lary Ellis (Top)
Right there is a fine example why you don't want to use cheap pads of a 7000lb vehicle that may tow 20,000 lbs.....
i have used oem quality since 2001. never any problems!
Old 01-02-2014, 12:16 PM
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Originally Posted by johnh
i have used oem quality since 2001. never any problems!
I completely agree. Not sure why someone thinks they need some high dollar brake component system to be able to stop a trailer that has its own brakes??? Depending on the state law, a trailer over a couple thousand pounds requires its own brakes and if the trailer brakes aren't strong enough for the trailers weight then that's an issue with simple physics and your decision to be on the road or not. And it wouldn't matter if the brakes on the trailer quite working too because no matter how much you spent on braking goodies, the truck would have one heck of a time trying to stop with 20k behind it. Same rule applies to class 8 truck/trailers.....

If you're having brake pad and rotor issues then generally its nothing to do with OEM quality as it is more a mechanical problem or driving behavior.
Old 01-02-2014, 07:31 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by torquefan
Hi Mike.
I have had very good luck using aerosol product "Fluid Film" on the metal. I wipe a small amount on the bare metal with my finger. I then install a new rubber slide boot into the bore and put some silicone brake grease inside the boot before I install the new steel slide.

Just to be clear to everyone: I'm not referring to the the caliper's piston, just the two slides that the caliper bolts go through.
Thanks for this 411 torquefan! I will try fluid film when I look at my brakes for the tow back to home in Alberta. 1,800 miles and a lotta mountains need **** good truck and RV brakes.

Cheers!

Mike
Old 01-02-2014, 09:15 PM
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Originally Posted by Mike L
Thanks for this 411 torquefan! I will try fluid film when I look at my brakes for the tow back to home in Alberta. 1,800 miles and a lotta mountains need **** good truck and RV brakes.

Cheers!

Mike
You're welcome!
Old 01-02-2014, 10:12 PM
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it would have been nice if they built some extra brakeing power
from the start...

sorry but the Dodge brakes are a weak point for me..
both the 1500 and 2500..

I used to drive a 87 Toyota Forerunner..it felt like to better brakes than the 1500 hands down..disc in front and drums in the rear..and yes I used the 4runner to stop 10K of towing without trailer brakes, crazy, but it had no problems..the 1500..same case...it was scary!!! oh should I mention the 4runner wasn't rated for towing over 5k? but the 1500 is rated at 7k???
right!! DODGE why the crappy brakes!!!!

the 2500..
after remove the rear control valve and larger rear wheel cylinders..it feels like it might stop something..maybe..hard should some stand on the pedal..
my wife's Jeep feels like it has more sensitive brakes..so does the dodge 1500...but the 2500 if pressed hard enough will lock the wheels..

ok rant off..
I like my diesel truck the towing is great..ran over a floor jack the other day because .. well some extra load..just a little more pedal and the trailer was over..hardy noticed..diesels are nice..

-dkenny
Old 01-04-2014, 10:03 AM
  #24  
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does the steering pull?

I would guess, you have plastic pistons in your brake calipers and you have one dragging causing the brake to over heat and burn up the pad.

That would also explain why it is on one side only. Change both calipers and if yours are plastic, pay the difference and up-grade tot he aluminum pistons.

This has happened to one of my Dodge trucks and my Jeep Wrangler.
Old 03-27-2014, 07:58 PM
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Well it's not the pads, I think I have bad caliper. Came home the other night and smelled burning brakes again and looked at the wheel and it felt hot and had smoke coming from it. So I've parked truck for now until I install new caliper and driving my car.
Old 04-05-2014, 07:47 PM
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I've replaced caliper and AutoZone had OEM rebuilt caliper in stock, so that's what I've put on there. Hopefully it wont lock up on me anymore.
Old 04-16-2014, 11:53 AM
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I dont remember if replacement calipers give you the option but when getting new calipers always make sure you get the ones with steel pistons.
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