24 Valve Engine and Drivetrain Discuss the 24 Valve engine and drivetrain here. No non-drivetrain discussions please. NO HIGH PERFORMANCE DISCUSSION!

no start

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 11-10-2013, 07:28 PM
  #1  
Registered User
Thread Starter
 
LDoyle's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2013
Posts: 65
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
no start

My 2001 ram diesel has always been very quick to start . Couple of days ago it took maybe a revolution before it started . the next time it took a little longer . Both batteries show 12.60 volts . Cleaned all battery connections and the next start seemed better , then back to about 4 or 5 revolutions before it would start . Finally it just would not start , in fact the last time I tried there was nothing . No click , no nothing . Decided to pull starter and have it tested , and it showed to be bad , in fact it smoked when they tested it . Problem solved I thought , put new starter in , tried to start and nothing , no buzz no click nothing . Batteries still show 12.60 volts . Checked all fuses and relays . What am I missing ? When I turn the key it is just dead .Any thoughts ?
Old 11-10-2013, 08:28 PM
  #2  
Registered User
 
Busboy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: On the Farm, Manitoba
Posts: 3,901
Received 36 Likes on 32 Posts
Welcome to the site more often than not it's the starter SOLENOID contacts that wear/burn and there are replacement ones available, even heavy duty ones. I think Geno's sells them. http://www.genosgarage.com/searchprods.asp I can't seem to get the link to stay at the exact spot but if you do a search on there they do have them. There is a starter relay in the PDC under the hood that is interchangeable with the other relays there. Corrosion inside the ends of the battery cables wire is another possibility.
Old 11-10-2013, 08:56 PM
  #3  
Registered User
Thread Starter
 
LDoyle's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2013
Posts: 65
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Are you saying the contacts in the new starter could be bad ? I guess I should pull the new starter and have it tested so I could rule it out as the problem . What`s the chance it`s defective right out of the box ?
Old 11-10-2013, 08:58 PM
  #4  
Registered User
Thread Starter
 
LDoyle's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2013
Posts: 65
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
And thank you for the welcome to the site :-)
Old 11-10-2013, 09:06 PM
  #5  
Registered User
 
lovinCTD59's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Minnesota
Posts: 762
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
What's the voltage at the starter itself?
Old 11-10-2013, 10:24 PM
  #6  
Registered User
Thread Starter
 
LDoyle's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2013
Posts: 65
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Where the heavy battery cable connects to starter it also reads 12.60 volts . Could there be a inline fuse or a fuse someplace other than the fuse box under the hood ? It just baffles me the starter won`t even click or anything .It`s like there is no current at all . How would I check the small wire at the starter ?
Old 11-11-2013, 12:07 AM
  #7  
Registered User
 
lovinCTD59's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Minnesota
Posts: 762
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Is your truck a manual? Its possible the safety switch took a crap under the dash for the clutch padal.. if this happens it won't trip the solenoid on the starter to crank it over.
Old 11-11-2013, 08:00 AM
  #8  
Registered User
Thread Starter
 
LDoyle's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2013
Posts: 65
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
It`s a manual shift . How would you check it and where exactly is it ?
Old 11-11-2013, 12:02 PM
  #9  
Registered User
Thread Starter
 
LDoyle's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2013
Posts: 65
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
I pulled the starter and had it tested and it shows to be good . I don't know where to go from here . Charged the batteries overnight and they went from 12.60 v to 12.75 v . I still have nothing when I turn the key . Anyone know how to test the small wire to the starter . I put a meter on it and had my wife turn the key and got nothing but I`m not sure if that is how you check it .
Old 11-11-2013, 12:19 PM
  #10  
Registered User
 
torquefan's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Calgary, Alberta
Posts: 4,449
Received 44 Likes on 39 Posts
Originally Posted by LDoyle
I pulled the starter and had it tested and it shows to be good . I don't know where to go from here . Charged the batteries overnight and they went from 12.60 v to 12.75 v . I still have nothing when I turn the key . Anyone know how to test the small wire to the starter . I put a meter on it and had my wife turn the key and got nothing but I`m not sure if that is how you check it .
Yep, that's exactly it. When you turn the key to crank, you should have battery voltage on that small wire.

That circuit comes from the ignition switch (yellow wire I think), from there through the clutch safety switch to the starter relay. When the starter relay fires, it sends power to that wire to energize the starter solenoid. Check all your fuses first.
Old 11-11-2013, 02:27 PM
  #11  
Registered User
Thread Starter
 
LDoyle's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2013
Posts: 65
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
got a code reading 1485 13 for just a instant then P done . Says it`s EGRV circuit malfunction . Anyone know what that is ?
Old 11-12-2013, 02:16 PM
  #12  
Registered User
Thread Starter
 
LDoyle's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2013
Posts: 65
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Yellow wire shows hot when key turned to full start . Goes to clutch safety switch , hot going into switch at full start , hot coming out of switch when clutch is full depressed . Check fuses again , good . Check fuse prong in box , One side hot , other side not . Guessing it goes from fuse to relay . Manual says slot 30 should be hot at all times . Mine is not . So from outgoing side of fuse box to relay I think this is where problem is . Any thoughts ?
Old 11-12-2013, 09:52 PM
  #13  
Registered User
 
torquefan's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Calgary, Alberta
Posts: 4,449
Received 44 Likes on 39 Posts
Yep, you're on the right track. The diagram I'm looking at is for a 96, but I think they're wired fairly closely. Looks like power goes directly from the fuse to relay terminal 30. So, if you're sure the fuse is good, and is making good contact on both blades, then the problem is between the outgoing side of the fuse and relay terminal 30. You can verify that the circuit is open by hooking an ohmmeter between those two points. After that, I know those power distribution centers are a pain to get apart, but that's the next step.
Old 11-12-2013, 11:39 PM
  #14  
Registered User
Thread Starter
 
LDoyle's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2013
Posts: 65
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Thanks torquefan . I`m not going to say I wish you had a different answer but I guess it means I`m on the right tract . It`s a continual learning experience but I love my Dodge !
Old 11-13-2013, 01:59 PM
  #15  
Registered User
 
Busboy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: On the Farm, Manitoba
Posts: 3,901
Received 36 Likes on 32 Posts
Sorry I replied to your other post before reading this one. You say that there is no power at terminal 30 of the starter relay and power on only one side of the fuse "D" in the PDC, if that is the case then fuse "D" has to be bad as there is no way for power to get to the other terminal unless it's through that fuse.


Quick Reply: no start



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 09:02 PM.