Need a VP44, who's good, who's bad?
06-02-2014, 04:38 PM
#1
Registered User
Thread Starter
Need a VP44, who's good, who's bad?
Once again my VP44 has gone TU, this one is 18 months old/22,000 miles and Pensacola Diesel wont back it up or give a discount.
Who should I buy from or not buy from? Sure as heck won't be Pensacola!
Who should I buy from or not buy from? Sure as heck won't be Pensacola!
06-03-2014, 07:35 AM
#2
Check out www.dieselautopower.com or www.mwfi.com. I didn't check the DTR store, you may find one there.
06-03-2014, 08:02 AM
#3
I think most will agree that http://www.bluechipdiesel.com/ is one of the industry leaders when it comes to quality product.
Some things you just can't go cheap on and as you learned with the Pensacola unit...there is NO value when you have to keep replacing crappy rebuilds.
Some things you just can't go cheap on and as you learned with the Pensacola unit...there is NO value when you have to keep replacing crappy rebuilds.
06-03-2014, 09:34 AM
#4
Registered User
Thread Starter
What makes Blue Chip the best? How do I keep from getting a P0216
Pensacola said there's was rebuilt by Bosch and all the parts were new.
All my failures were supposedly electronic, P0216
The original went about 100,000
First Pensacola went about 100,000
Second Pensacola went 22,000
Pensacola said there's was rebuilt by Bosch and all the parts were new.
All my failures were supposedly electronic, P0216
The original went about 100,000
First Pensacola went about 100,000
Second Pensacola went 22,000
06-03-2014, 09:42 AM
#5
Not all rebuilds are equal......many shops reuse the electronics and that causes early failure as they are damaged by the extreme heat they endure...they may use new internals but that hardly helps if they reuse the old electronics as they have already endured a lifetime of heat.
One mistake many people make is to run the vehicle low on fuel, I would NEVER go below 1/4 tank and in the hot months closer to 1/2...
The fuel is pumped through the VP44 and much is returned to the tank via the return line, this is intentional as the fuel lubricates and acts as a heat sink carrying heat away from the pump in the process. The less fuel in the tank the hotter it gets until it no longer cools the pump effectively.
One mistake many people make is to run the vehicle low on fuel, I would NEVER go below 1/4 tank and in the hot months closer to 1/2...
The fuel is pumped through the VP44 and much is returned to the tank via the return line, this is intentional as the fuel lubricates and acts as a heat sink carrying heat away from the pump in the process. The less fuel in the tank the hotter it gets until it no longer cools the pump effectively.
06-03-2014, 10:35 AM
#6
Registered User
"Not all rebuilds are equal"
I could write a book on that subject. New part limits vs serviceable part limits. The effects of cumulative tolerances. Thermal cycle degradation. How to lie with testing techniques.
I could write a book on that subject. New part limits vs serviceable part limits. The effects of cumulative tolerances. Thermal cycle degradation. How to lie with testing techniques.
06-03-2014, 10:47 AM
#7
Registered User
Thread Starter
All very true, then there is the vendor/dealer IE Pensacola Diesel, that know nothing about what's in the box and make statements they have no knowledge of, like, 'completely rebuilt', or 'all new electronics!'
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06-03-2014, 10:49 AM
#8
Registered User
Thread Starter
Not all rebuilds are equal......many shops reuse the electronics and that causes early failure as they are damaged by the extreme heat they endure...they may use new internals but that hardly helps if they reuse the old electronics as they have already endured a lifetime of heat.
One mistake many people make is to run the vehicle low on fuel, I would NEVER go below 1/4 tank and in the hot months closer to 1/2...
The fuel is pumped through the VP44 and much is returned to the tank via the return line, this is intentional as the fuel lubricates and acts as a heat sink carrying heat away from the pump in the process. The less fuel in the tank the hotter it gets until it no longer cools the pump effectively.
One mistake many people make is to run the vehicle low on fuel, I would NEVER go below 1/4 tank and in the hot months closer to 1/2...
The fuel is pumped through the VP44 and much is returned to the tank via the return line, this is intentional as the fuel lubricates and acts as a heat sink carrying heat away from the pump in the process. The less fuel in the tank the hotter it gets until it no longer cools the pump effectively.
They say there is only one thing worse than running out of fuel....
Pushing the car that ran out of fuel!
06-03-2014, 02:51 PM
#9
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It's probably the timing piston sticking.
I don't think Bosch ever corrected the manufacturing issue which makes these pumps so unreliable, and it's unlikely the re-manufacturers address it during the rebuild.
You could try to fix it yourself, as I did.
Or send it to me and I'll give it a go.
Worst case you're out a core charge.
Mine is still running perfectly since the fix about 20,000 miles ago, and I'm getting 24 MPG on the highway at 70 mph.
I'm now confident that I found the root cause of the problem, and fixed it for good.
Everyone who replaces a VP-44 with a new or re-manufactured pump should expect another failure at some point.
See my original post here:
https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...d.php?t=310375
Drew
I don't think Bosch ever corrected the manufacturing issue which makes these pumps so unreliable, and it's unlikely the re-manufacturers address it during the rebuild.
You could try to fix it yourself, as I did.
Or send it to me and I'll give it a go.
Worst case you're out a core charge.
Mine is still running perfectly since the fix about 20,000 miles ago, and I'm getting 24 MPG on the highway at 70 mph.
I'm now confident that I found the root cause of the problem, and fixed it for good.
Everyone who replaces a VP-44 with a new or re-manufactured pump should expect another failure at some point.
See my original post here:
https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...d.php?t=310375
Drew
06-03-2014, 03:35 PM
#10
Registered User
Thread Starter
The Bosch is the only issue I have with the truck, I am sure I am not alone.
The only reason I would retire this truck is because of the low reliability of the injection system, too bad because the engine will certainly out last the body & chassis.
At least when the dash cracked it was an easy fix. The permanent cure was to cover the new dash to keep the sun off......maybe I should cover the next VP44 with a towel like I do with the new dash when I park out in the sun?
The only reason I would retire this truck is because of the low reliability of the injection system, too bad because the engine will certainly out last the body & chassis.
At least when the dash cracked it was an easy fix. The permanent cure was to cover the new dash to keep the sun off......maybe I should cover the next VP44 with a towel like I do with the new dash when I park out in the sun?
06-03-2014, 05:53 PM
#12
Administrator
I would highly recommend "Scheid Diesel" in Terre Haute, Indiana. They are a certified Bosch Dealer and rebuild all of their VP-44 Pumps giving a one year warranty on them as long as you don't mess with the wiring.
Here is their number if you are interested: 1-800-669-1593.
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John_P
06-03-2014, 05:57 PM
#13
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I would highly recommend "Scheid Diesel" in Terre Haute, Indiana. They are a certified Bosch Dealer and rebuild all of their VP-44 Pumps giving a one year warranty on them as long as you don't mess with the wiring.
Here is their number if you are interested: 1-800-669-1593.
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John_P
I would highly recommend "Scheid Diesel" in Terre Haute, Indiana. They are a certified Bosch Dealer and rebuild all of their VP-44 Pumps giving a one year warranty on them as long as you don't mess with the wiring.
Here is their number if you are interested: 1-800-669-1593.
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John_P
06-03-2014, 06:02 PM
#14
Administrator
Exactly right Lary!
Dan and his crew do ALOT of VP-44 Pumps and have a dedicated Bosch Test Calibration Stand just for the VP-44 Pumps.
06-04-2014, 07:33 AM
#15
Registered User
Thread Starter
My fuel light has been coming on lately, probably the last 3 tanks of fuel. I have been purging the filter with little success. What's a good additive to eliminate water?