7.3 down

My `92 7.3 got totaled on oct.31st and my mechanic showed me a truck that a customer brought in for a check before he sells it. So my question is this,I`m somewhat spoiled by the simplicity of my idi 7.3 (yes it is a slug)that never broke down on me in 278 000 miles.The truck I`m looking at is a 2000 Dodge ram 2500 QC Laramie with 24v C/diesel and 260 000 miles on the clock. The truck appears to be well taken care of, interior is in very good shape considering the age and mileage, but under the hood I just don`t know what to look for. I also have not checked the block number yet, and the famous "53' falls right into that model year. I`ve spent the last two days reading through different posts on this forum, and I am very impressed with the content and knowledge apparent in this forum. So any guiding help would be highly appreciated
The truck has a 4' exhaust and a exhaust brake, but appears otherwise stock. Thank you all for any feed back.

Philip

I would try to find the history on the injection system. Has the VP injection pump been replaced. Has the lift pump been replaced with better than stock lift pump?

Those are known issues with the VP injection system.

Check the front suspension over good. Check ball joints for wear. Check the track bar for being loose. Those are two known problems also.

simplysmn

I would say stick with a first gen dodge there easier to mess with and if you love your Furd you will be tickled Pink with a Dodge there not as much a slug as the ford's are and will live way longer then what you have now at 278,000 you would still be smiling in a dodge when it's well cared for .

7.3 down

Can you tell if there has been any work done to the injection system without paper work for proof. The truck belonged originally to the seller, but he sold it to his brother who had it the last four years, and suddenly died. So he inherited his old truck back, but has no receipts from any work done while his brother owned it. I am planing on a test drive tomorrow, is there any thing special to listen or pay attention to. Thanks again for sharing your knowledge.

7.3 down

Before I forget. I know that there is a good argument going about Ford vs. Chevy vs. Dodge. I am not a Ford guy, just happened to have owned one, and I have to say that reliability was tops. I have seen all brands latest $60.000 truck on the back of a tow truck while a went my way, albeit slowly if there was a hill involved. I like to think long term in my relationships and vehicles and if that Edit would`nt have taken me out, then I would`nt even consider buying a different truck. I just like that the truck was someones "baby" once, and that it needs a new "parent", so one less for the dismantlers.

patdaly

As for Injection mods, there really isn't much you can do to the pump, so a tuner, if there would be the mods. They could have installed Injectors, but from the sounds of the truck, I doubt it.

I am more of a 12 valve guy at heart, but if I ran across a 24 valve, I really wouldn't say no, they are pretty good trucks so long as you keep fuel to them, and don't go cheap on the VP rebuild when you need one.

I think you will be impressed when you drive it, coming from an IDI. Is this a stick or auto?

7.3 down

It`s a 5 speed manual. I am getting the VIN today and see what else I can find out. The mechanic just installed a new track bar, and replaced one of the ball joints.

Philip

Cutting corners and going cheap sounds like.

I would never do one ball joint. Do a full set on both sides. You have it apart one time instead of many times replacing each ball joint. Of course he makes more money that way from a repeat customer.

It suddenly died. I bet it was a lift pump.

Have a scanner hooked up and run it for codes. A quick search will tell you the problem codes for the VP. If any VP codes show up go from there. Without paper work for parts replacement all you have is the persons word. Sometimes that isn't to good. NO paper work for a replaced VP. Assume it is old. I would knock at least 1k off for that.

roughstock

How much is he asking? With that many miles and years, id jump back a few years and get a 12 valve. Simple and easy to mod, no computers needed.

patdaly

Yes, depending on the price, a 12 valve would be preferred, BUT they can be significantly more cash, especially a 5 speed.

Oh yea, one other thing, since it is a 2000, you can pull most codes stored with what we call the key on trick.

Not starting it, do key on, key off, key on, key off, key on without hitting the starter, and watch the odometer. It will give you any P codes and then P done.

Let us know any codes it spits out.

7.3 down

He is asking 15k. The good: it`got a 55 block, runs strong and I don`t know how I was able to live this long without an exhaust brake. BRILLIANT!!!!!
The bad: front feels like crap, a/c kaputt, and some nasty wind noise coming from the driver door in the area of the rear view mirror, yet the door gasket looks fine. As this is a LARAMIE edition, the interior is pretty complete, but I have to say pretty flimsy. Lots of little things look "undone" upon closer examination.
My verdict: I totally understand the cummins following, but the DODGE part falls short of what FORD has to offer. Thank you all for your time and feedback, but I`ll be looking for a 2000-2002 7.3.
Now how about a Cummins in Ford chassis?!

patdaly

Don't base your judgement on a single, unknown truck. I will say, I don't like the Dodge wrapper nearly as well as a Furd one, but I have run mine pretty hard, and nothing major is wrong. At 177K I still have all the original steering and linkage, did Ball joints, track bar and wheel bearings, though the wheel bearings weren't bad, it was a pre-emptive strike. I just replaced the original front shocks at 174K miles, and my truck is pretty doggone sound, no wind whistle or cheaper feel than any other mid 90's truck, Furd included.

That being said, 15K is outrageous for that truck, absolutely unacceptable.

9-10 K is more than enough, and I think with a little looking you can find a 12 valve 5 speed in good shape for that.

7.3 down

I offered him 10k, but he just laughed at that. Oh well, it was not meant to be.

patdaly

Do you have time to look, or are you in need today of the truck?

There are good deals out there, perhaps buy a 1K beater with a heater to run till you find a good deal?

Since you are in Cali, swap options get expensive, no 12 valves in an 03 for you, but do you have the ability to do a swap? A late model Superduty with a common rail is probably as good as it gets for your money.

roughstock

way too much. sorry. I just gave 15K for a 3rd gen with LOTS of new parts. including, tires, wheels, injectors, warrantied transmission, etc, etc. and Leather. Drives like New.
Id either go 12valve or CR. just my opinion.