Driving to work truck shut off, wont start up
01-24-2017, 12:34 AM
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Driving to work truck shut off, wont start up
2002 dodge 2500, was driving to work truck was running fine. Stopped at a stop sign, idled fine. Went to accellerate and the truck just dumped. Dropped to about 200 rpm if that, wouldnt rev up then died. Has not fired since. Turns over perfectly, but will not fire up. New to diesels so im totally stumped. Any help would be appriciated.
01-24-2017, 06:54 AM
#2
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How long has it been since you last filled the tank?
Reason I ask, is that it's a somewhat common problem on our Rams that the fuel tank sensor stops working, leaving its unaware owner thinking everything is normal until the tank is sucked dry.
Mine did that, showed I had ¼ tank. Then it shut down when I was backing into my spot at work one day. I ended up putting in 5 gallons and bleeding a couple of injectors for it to start up again.
Reason I ask, is that it's a somewhat common problem on our Rams that the fuel tank sensor stops working, leaving its unaware owner thinking everything is normal until the tank is sucked dry.
Mine did that, showed I had ¼ tank. Then it shut down when I was backing into my spot at work one day. I ended up putting in 5 gallons and bleeding a couple of injectors for it to start up again.
01-24-2017, 10:43 AM
#3
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Also, do the key on trick and tell us any codes present.
Basically turn the key on, then off 3 times and the last time leave it on, watch your odometer, it will give you a series of P codes, report them back to us.
Basically turn the key on, then off 3 times and the last time leave it on, watch your odometer, it will give you a series of P codes, report them back to us.
01-25-2017, 03:41 PM
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I had filled it to days before, and only drove to work twice (about 40 miles round trip) so it has plenty of gas. Ill do the key truck tomorrow when im home from work and update yall on how that goes.
01-25-2017, 05:58 PM
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Cool, let us know, a very good resource on diagnosing your pump is located here.........
https://www.bluechipdiesel.com/vp44_diagnostics.html
https://www.bluechipdiesel.com/vp44_diagnostics.html
01-26-2017, 05:55 PM
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poppin codes: P1693 p0253 p1688. From the limited research ive done says the vp44 is toast. Is that true or?
01-27-2017, 07:41 AM
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1693 means that both the ECM and PCM saw the same fault. Doesn't tell you what fault, but just that they noticed the same thing.
0253 means the fuel solenoid inside the VP44 is not working properly
1688 means the little computer on the VP44 is not working correctly.
Both of those codes together tell me that your VP44 likely died. If you want to be absolutely certain that the VP44 is dead, you can do the hot wire test as shown on the Blue Chip Diesel site linked above. What this does is put 12 Volt power directly to the VP44, bypassing the ECM and all other sensors and controls. If the VP44 is good, the engine will only start and idle. If the VP44 is bad, it will not start at all. This is assuming that you have a good lift pump and fuel to the VP44.
Hope this helps.
0253 means the fuel solenoid inside the VP44 is not working properly
1688 means the little computer on the VP44 is not working correctly.
Both of those codes together tell me that your VP44 likely died. If you want to be absolutely certain that the VP44 is dead, you can do the hot wire test as shown on the Blue Chip Diesel site linked above. What this does is put 12 Volt power directly to the VP44, bypassing the ECM and all other sensors and controls. If the VP44 is good, the engine will only start and idle. If the VP44 is bad, it will not start at all. This is assuming that you have a good lift pump and fuel to the VP44.
Originally Posted by Blue Chip Diesel
HOT WIRE TEST - THE "FOR SURE TEST" TO DETERMINE IF THE VP44 IS WHY THE ENGINE WON'T START
It is very rare, but possible, for a problem with the wiring harness or the CAN Bus wires to prevent the engine from starting, so if you want to be 100% sure it IS the Injection Pump causing the no start, follow the following directions exactly, to be sure of not damaging a possibly good pump. This test POSITIVELY eliminates the possibility of overlooking an electrical problem caused by other components that could affect the start or run function of the VP44, as long as you have verified fuel delivery to the Injection Pump. Remove the electrical plug at the back of the Injection Pump and hot wire the pins on the pump as follows. Get two wires long enough to reach from the battery to the VP44. Install an INSULATED ¼ inch female spade connector onto one end of each wire. Use a set of dykes and cut the flat part and one of the "curls" away from each spade connector to leave one "curl" , which will be about the right size to go over the pin on the pump. Connect one INSULATED connector to pin 7 on the pump, which is the pin on the BOTTOM row of the socket on the Injection Pump, closest to the engine, to preferably fused (10 amp is fine) positive battery power in the PDC (Fuse box under the hood), or directly to the positive battery terminal if you like to take risks!.
Connect the other INSULATED connector to the pin directly above the previous connection, the top row of pins, the one closest to the engine, and attach the other end to battery ground. Now try to start the engine and if it doesn’t start, you absolutely positively 100% need an Injection Pump! If the engine starts this way but NOT with the big plug installed on the pump, you know there is something in the harness or CAN bus wiring to the ECM telling or causing the engine to not start. Call me for help if this is the case.
It is very rare, but possible, for a problem with the wiring harness or the CAN Bus wires to prevent the engine from starting, so if you want to be 100% sure it IS the Injection Pump causing the no start, follow the following directions exactly, to be sure of not damaging a possibly good pump. This test POSITIVELY eliminates the possibility of overlooking an electrical problem caused by other components that could affect the start or run function of the VP44, as long as you have verified fuel delivery to the Injection Pump. Remove the electrical plug at the back of the Injection Pump and hot wire the pins on the pump as follows. Get two wires long enough to reach from the battery to the VP44. Install an INSULATED ¼ inch female spade connector onto one end of each wire. Use a set of dykes and cut the flat part and one of the "curls" away from each spade connector to leave one "curl" , which will be about the right size to go over the pin on the pump. Connect one INSULATED connector to pin 7 on the pump, which is the pin on the BOTTOM row of the socket on the Injection Pump, closest to the engine, to preferably fused (10 amp is fine) positive battery power in the PDC (Fuse box under the hood), or directly to the positive battery terminal if you like to take risks!.
Connect the other INSULATED connector to the pin directly above the previous connection, the top row of pins, the one closest to the engine, and attach the other end to battery ground. Now try to start the engine and if it doesn’t start, you absolutely positively 100% need an Injection Pump! If the engine starts this way but NOT with the big plug installed on the pump, you know there is something in the harness or CAN bus wiring to the ECM telling or causing the engine to not start. Call me for help if this is the case.
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02-06-2017, 08:51 PM
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[QUOTE=jrs_dodge_diesel;3320064]1693 means that both the ECM and PCM saw the same fault. Doesn't tell you what fault, but just that they noticed the same thing.
0253 means the fuel solenoid inside the VP44 is not working properly
1688 means the little computer on the VP44 is not working correctly.
Both of those codes together tell me that your VP44 likely died.
i replaced the vp44 and figured while im at it ill do the lift pump as well. The vp44 was toast did nothing even when hotwired, and the lift pump was making barely any pressure. After bleeding the air out the line fired right up and runs better than it ever has since i have owned it. Thank everyone for your help. Every bit is and was greatly appriciated.
0253 means the fuel solenoid inside the VP44 is not working properly
1688 means the little computer on the VP44 is not working correctly.
Both of those codes together tell me that your VP44 likely died.
i replaced the vp44 and figured while im at it ill do the lift pump as well. The vp44 was toast did nothing even when hotwired, and the lift pump was making barely any pressure. After bleeding the air out the line fired right up and runs better than it ever has since i have owned it. Thank everyone for your help. Every bit is and was greatly appriciated.
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