cougar

Tis the season and I still don't know alot about this truck. How solid are these transfer cases? I know how good the 205 is in my 1st gen, but how will this 2nd gen T case stand up?
The question is, can I leave it in 4wd on a pavement that keeps changing from dry to bugger slick and back. You don't know were the ice is going to be until your sliding on it.
Next question. Is their an easy (cheap) way to keep the center disconnect locked in on the front axle? I know there are "free spin" kits but the price is ridiculous.

Tallguy67

Cougar, when I bought my truck the vacuum CAD was broken. Rather than replace it with another vacuum CAD, I put in a Posi-Lok. The kit cost me about $200 and the installation was super easy and took me about an hour. Now, when I want to lock my front axle, I just pull the big red **** that I have mounted down by my ash-tray and the axle is solid.

patdaly

Yep, posilok is a good answer, had one in Brownie, loved it. If I ever do lose my vacuum actuator on Greenie, I will do the same thing.

The NP241 is a pretty good HD transfer case, they get beat on pretty doggone hard and hang in there.

cougar

I was looking at the posi-loc and the perma-loc. I'm thinking the perma-loc. On all the vehicles I've had with manual hubs, I've never unlocked them. Unless on the rare occasion something broke. Those that had auto-loc hubs got replaced with manual lockers. As long as there is no power to the front driveshaft in 2 hi, I can't see a problem with the front axle staying live. Being a chain drive, I'm more worried about the transfer case.

patdaly

Don't forget, mid 02 they eliminated the CAD and the front end was live all the time, so other than the additional ujoint wear, it won't hurt anything running the front end locked. Some have just reversed the fork and left it locked as well.

I certainly don't have any reservations about running the 241, mine has almost 200K and she is still tight as new.

SIXSLUG

I don't read too many threads regarding the 241HD really needing anything.

Mine tends to spit a little fluid out the rear seal, I just keep it topped up every three or four oil changes. It takes about 2 ounces.

I am leaning towards free spin hubs to get the most mileage out of mine, its a chunk of change, but it should save me in the long run....plus I will have 2Lo for backing up trailers...

cougar

I have been digging through old threads seeing what previous poster have said. One comment I red about the 02 on elimination of the CAD is they also increased the front pinion to drive shaft angle. People were complaining more about their driveshaft u-joints than anything.

From what I'm looking at, the Posi-loc does the same thing for 1/10 the price. With the "spin free" kits I've seen, you still need to eliminate the CAD on earlier models like mine. Also, I just don't see the advantage with "free spin". How often do you change your wheel bearings? Also, someone figured out you can grease the bearings through the ABS sensor hole on hub assemblies.
As for fuel mileage, I've put a lot of miles on a lot of different 4X4s over the last 40 years and never noticed a difference between front differential dead or live. Maybe just how I drive.
As for 2lo, only once did I ever need it and that was trying to pull a dead VW buss up a hill with a Chevy LUV. Though I do see it's advantage.

DIESELWRKS

I still do not believe you can grease throught the ABS hole.
it really depends on what you are doing with the truck. I have went through 3 sets of hubs. 1 with 33 " tires , 1 with 35" and 1 set with 37" .
a free spin kit would be nice. because I know how long it took to change the hubs all 3 times. how long would it take to change with the free spin kit. quick.
plus for those that do have larger tires you can get a slight wider track while using a free spin kit. (helps with rubbing on control arm) look at DLUX FAB they have a really good price. no were near 2000$ plus you can upgrade the shaft size. I think free spins are stronger and great for lifted or folks that do more 4wd use. For folks that do alot of long distance driving hauling. (Hot shots) just the potential saving in maint, time etc and maybe better MPG.

almost 200k miles on my 2002 1/2 truck with NO VAC, no issues on my 241 DHD.

Cougar you have the 241 DLD

for those wanting some info on the 2 models comparing. I had this saved but I believe this was from www.quad4x4.com

Starting in 1994, the stock Ram 2500 transfer case was the NV241DLD (Dodge Light Duty). Optional on the 2500 and standard on the 3500 was the NV241DHD (Dodge Heavy Duty). There were numerous design changes in the NP241DLD/DHD during its production life; making part(s) selection a bit tricky without the round transfer case build tag affixed to the rear case half. Most, but not all 1999 to 2002 Ram 2500 4x4 trucks with the High-Output Cummins Diesel NV5600 6 speed transmission use the NV241DHD.
Despite the many assembly variations, there are a few common characteristics shared by both DLD and DHD models. All these cases will have a slip yoke rear output, left drive chain front output, with CV flange and mechanical shift engagement. The cases will also have a 6-gear planetary 2.72:1 ratio low range. 1998-2002-1/2 models have a transfer case mounted vacuum switch, which controls the front axle disconnect system. Late 2002 Ram 2500 and Ram 3500 4x4 trucks did not have the CAD feature so transfer cases for these late production trucks will have an indicator switch for the dash display instead of a vacuum switch.

All 1998 and 1999 plus some 2000 gas V8 trucks with a manual transmissions and all automatic trucks regardless of their engine have a 23 spline input. Whereas, all manual transmission trucks with a Cummins Diesel or Gas V10 engine will have a 29 spline input shaft. Every NP241DLD transfer case will have two-piece tailshaft housing and have a 1-3/8" diameter 32 spline rear output shaft. The NP241DLD uses a 1-1/4" wide drive chain and does not have a provision to mount a Power Take Off (PTO). 1998 to 2002 models do not have any provisions for a speedometer. The speedometer signal for these years is generated by the ABS sensor on the rear axle.

If you are trying to swap parts between cases you will find some parts are interchangeable between the DLD and DHD models for a given year, but many are not. You also have to watch for variations within model years as input shafts.

cougar

I decided to order the perma-loc kit.

DIESELWRKS

if you are doing this yourself post some pics when you put it in.
and for sure give some updates after you install

Tallguy67

What is the difference between the Posi-Loc I have and the Perma-Loc you are going to use?

patdaly

Had to check it for myself, Perma-Loc is just a Posi-Loc without the cable, locks it in all the time, like the 02 CAD delete.

KATOOM

I guess I'm a little confused..... Is the thread about how to eliminate the CAD unit or how to keep the CAD engaged? I dont know why keeping the CAD engaged would be a problem but I understand that guys who have trouble with their CAD engaging tend to opt for the cable systems and eliminate the vacuum system. That said, I would suggest not running in 4wd all the time on "dry" pavement as its hard on the chain. When the chain stretches then you run the risk of it skipping gear cogs or binding and busting out the side of the case. If you're on wet pavement then thats better than dry.

cougar

I don't trust CADs, had to many times they failed to engage at critical moments. Around here, the hard part is knowing when the ice starts and when it stops as most times you can not see the difference. When I can tell the difference, I shift the transfer case in or out as needed. With the CAD eliminated (same as having my hubs locked on my 92), I don't have to worry about when or if the front end will engage. Just shift to 4X4 and your in.

KATOOM

Well I guess if you wanted to go the "cheapest" route then you could merely take apart the CAD and manually lock it in the engaged position and leave it engaged. That would cause the front driveshaft to spin full time and then all you'd have to do is shift the transfer case in and out of 4wd. The CAD trucks have two means of separating the 4wd drive system.....the CAD unit and the transfer case. You'd essentially be turning your truck into a non-CAD axle truck. The only problem with this is, just as with the non-CAD trucks, you have to make sure the front driveshaft is perfectly balanced so there's no driveline vibrations and you'll have to maintain the front driveshaft u-joints more often. Other than that, its the same thing.