2001 dodge 3500 no crank. Pcu and ecm problems?
#1
2001 dodge 3500 no crank. Pcu and ecm problems?
So i have a 2001 dodge 3500 no start...this is my first post so hope yall understand.
Its a little cold so truck it plugged in
1. Unplug truck
2. Turn key wait for glow plugs to pop
3. Turn key of to start, nothing.
Just two clicks no cranking nothing. Does have new batterys. It is trowing p 1694, p done, p 1693, p done. Is my ecm done for or what..im stuck. Plz help
Its a little cold so truck it plugged in
1. Unplug truck
2. Turn key wait for glow plugs to pop
3. Turn key of to start, nothing.
Just two clicks no cranking nothing. Does have new batterys. It is trowing p 1694, p done, p 1693, p done. Is my ecm done for or what..im stuck. Plz help
#2
This has nothing to do with your question but this was the first post I saw and wanted to ask, how the hell you start a thread on this site. i feel i have looked everywhere. I have a question to post but apparently to dumb to figure it out. Thank you in advance!!
#3
Well, when you have opened the main "24 valve engine and drivetrain" thread up towards the top you will see it shows page 1 of 852 pages on the right side and to the very left of that is New Thread, click on that and start a new thread.
#4
Administrator
One of two possibilities come to mind. Either weak batteries or your starter contacts are worn out. The ECM and PCM don't have much of anything to do with the starter motor at all.
I had to replace my starter contacts last year. Not a hard project. Usually getting the starter out is the hardest part of the project. If you still have the original starter, DO NOT REPLACE IT! The original starter is a very well built starter and is easy to repair. You should not have to worry about the brushes. Give this thread a read:
https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...tarter-141395/
For your codes, 1693 means the same fault was seen by both the Dodge PCM and the Cummins ECM.
1694 is no messages received from the PCM. See if you can get the engine started. This code may be a non issue.
I had to replace my starter contacts last year. Not a hard project. Usually getting the starter out is the hardest part of the project. If you still have the original starter, DO NOT REPLACE IT! The original starter is a very well built starter and is easy to repair. You should not have to worry about the brushes. Give this thread a read:
https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...tarter-141395/
For your codes, 1693 means the same fault was seen by both the Dodge PCM and the Cummins ECM.
1694 is no messages received from the PCM. See if you can get the engine started. This code may be a non issue.
#5
One of two possibilities come to mind. Either weak batteries or your starter contacts are worn out. The ECM and PCM don't have much of anything to do with the starter motor at all.
I had to replace my starter contacts last year. Not a hard project. Usually getting the starter out is the hardest part of the project. If you still have the original starter, DO NOT REPLACE IT! The original starter is a very well built starter and is easy to repair. You should not have to worry about the brushes. Give this thread a read:
https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...tarter-141395/
For your codes, 1693 means the same fault was seen by both the Dodge PCM and the Cummins ECM.
1694 is no messages received from the PCM. See if you can get the engine started. This code may be a non issue.
I had to replace my starter contacts last year. Not a hard project. Usually getting the starter out is the hardest part of the project. If you still have the original starter, DO NOT REPLACE IT! The original starter is a very well built starter and is easy to repair. You should not have to worry about the brushes. Give this thread a read:
https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...tarter-141395/
For your codes, 1693 means the same fault was seen by both the Dodge PCM and the Cummins ECM.
1694 is no messages received from the PCM. See if you can get the engine started. This code may be a non issue.
Its also a 6 speed standard...and i dont know if youll understand this (i hope you do) but its kinda like when i turn the key it cuts power like i turned the key without putting the clutch in. I hope your right
#6
Registered User
Or it may also be your clutch safety switch...
One (quite risky) way to test it is to hot-wire your starter.
Another, less risky way to check some basics... before condemning the starter.
Take some wire and a smallish (5W 12V) bulb and connect one end to the starter control wire and the other to ground- try to start, watch light.
A: Light does not turn on- do the following checks-
If you have a relay marked starter in your PDC, remove it and take a test light between the cavities that are for the relay coil- if you try to start the light needs to turn on. If not, look for clutch safety switch, ignition switch, wiring loom etc.
If it lights up, use test light between chassis ground and both cavities for the switched contact of the relay- on one side it should light up. If not, start searching for reason of the lack of power.
If yes, swap said relay for a known good one (like horn relay or so, test horn with doubtful relay, test starter.)
B: Light does turn on- move wire from starter control to main plus on starter- other end to ground. Light must be on- (Else you have a broken cable from battery to starter)
Try to start- if light goes out while trying to start you have too much resistance in either the cable from the battery to the starter or in the ground circuit from the engine to the battery.
These tests should take a lot less time and effort than removing the starter, and can help you to avoid the frustration of having no start with a new starter..
HTH
One (quite risky) way to test it is to hot-wire your starter.
Another, less risky way to check some basics... before condemning the starter.
Take some wire and a smallish (5W 12V) bulb and connect one end to the starter control wire and the other to ground- try to start, watch light.
A: Light does not turn on- do the following checks-
If you have a relay marked starter in your PDC, remove it and take a test light between the cavities that are for the relay coil- if you try to start the light needs to turn on. If not, look for clutch safety switch, ignition switch, wiring loom etc.
If it lights up, use test light between chassis ground and both cavities for the switched contact of the relay- on one side it should light up. If not, start searching for reason of the lack of power.
If yes, swap said relay for a known good one (like horn relay or so, test horn with doubtful relay, test starter.)
B: Light does turn on- move wire from starter control to main plus on starter- other end to ground. Light must be on- (Else you have a broken cable from battery to starter)
Try to start- if light goes out while trying to start you have too much resistance in either the cable from the battery to the starter or in the ground circuit from the engine to the battery.
These tests should take a lot less time and effort than removing the starter, and can help you to avoid the frustration of having no start with a new starter..
HTH
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