2001 Dodge 2500 24v 47re Shifting problems
#1
2001 Dodge 2500 24v 47re Shifting problems
Hello Im new to the site in search of info on my transmission problem from other diesel owners.
I had a problem shifting from 1st to 2nd. I would have to rev the engine up to 2500 rpm's and then let off the gas and then it would shift into second. then most of the gears would shift fine. I researched that the governor solenoid and transducer was a common problem on these trucks. (This is my first Dodge Truck) So i bought a kit with a new solenoid,transducer,output speed sensor, accumulator spring,new filter and gasket. I installed all of that and readjusted the bands. and When I went to take it back out on the road. I had the same problem it would only shift if i reved up the rpms and then let off the gas. I tested all the wires going to the shift solenoid assembly from the PCM connector and everything ohmed out fine. I check power to the pcm and that was fine. Everything electrical seemed fine. Im currently at a stand still and have no idea where to start now. I have a couple of ideas, The tv cable needs to be adjusted,the valve spools are sticking in the valve body or the bands are toasted. Also I will be getting a snap on reader from my co worker to clear codes and record live data.
If anybody has any ideas on where to start it would be great. Im more of a engine man then a transmission man.
I had a problem shifting from 1st to 2nd. I would have to rev the engine up to 2500 rpm's and then let off the gas and then it would shift into second. then most of the gears would shift fine. I researched that the governor solenoid and transducer was a common problem on these trucks. (This is my first Dodge Truck) So i bought a kit with a new solenoid,transducer,output speed sensor, accumulator spring,new filter and gasket. I installed all of that and readjusted the bands. and When I went to take it back out on the road. I had the same problem it would only shift if i reved up the rpms and then let off the gas. I tested all the wires going to the shift solenoid assembly from the PCM connector and everything ohmed out fine. I check power to the pcm and that was fine. Everything electrical seemed fine. Im currently at a stand still and have no idea where to start now. I have a couple of ideas, The tv cable needs to be adjusted,the valve spools are sticking in the valve body or the bands are toasted. Also I will be getting a snap on reader from my co worker to clear codes and record live data.
If anybody has any ideas on where to start it would be great. Im more of a engine man then a transmission man.
#2
Registered User
I don't think that your bands are toasted- it would not shift 1-2, because 2 is 1+front band.
So if the front band is toast, it can only go 1-3.
(And you still have reverse, so the rear band is also OK)
My suggestion would be that you get a set of pressure gauges, and start checking the pressures according to the factory service manual. (Should be less than 40US$ for the DVD)
Another question- does your speedometer indicate correctly below 15mph?
If not, check the vehicle speed sensor on the rear axle pumpkin and the wiring.
Also the TV cable adjustment can lead to some problems, so check that too.
So if the front band is toast, it can only go 1-3.
(And you still have reverse, so the rear band is also OK)
My suggestion would be that you get a set of pressure gauges, and start checking the pressures according to the factory service manual. (Should be less than 40US$ for the DVD)
Another question- does your speedometer indicate correctly below 15mph?
If not, check the vehicle speed sensor on the rear axle pumpkin and the wiring.
Also the TV cable adjustment can lead to some problems, so check that too.
#3
My speedometer does read accurate. I replace the speed sensor in December due to troubleshooting the ABS system.
Can i test pressures with a snap on scanner? and if i get low readings what would be the possible cause to my shifting problems. Im trying to keep it out of a dealership or transmission shop before it get expensive.
Can i test pressures with a snap on scanner? and if i get low readings what would be the possible cause to my shifting problems. Im trying to keep it out of a dealership or transmission shop before it get expensive.
#4
Registered User
In my opinion you should measure the pressures with a mechanical gauge.
There are some test ports on the transmission, and the pressures you see are really useful in the diagnosis.
For example, if the governor pressure sensor is out of whack, you will see that the true governor pressure is not what it needs to be. (And that is the only pressure with an electronic monitor in that transmission)
On the other hand the balance between throttle valve pressure and governor pressure is what controls shifting.
So even with the best scanner you will not be able to see the crucial pressures in the 47RE, and you will not really be able to diagnose it.
You will need 2 gauges, I don't have the specs with me right now, but IIRC I bought a set at autozone or the like for around 50 US$. (But this was a long time ago)
To quote the factory manual:
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - HYDRAULIC
PRESSURE TEST
Hydraulic test pressures range from a low of one
psi (6.895 kPa) governor pressure, to 300 psi (2068
kPa) at the rear servo pressure port in reverse.
An accurate tachometer and pressure test gauges
are required. Test Gauge C-3292 has a 100 psi range
and is used at the accumulator, governor, and front
servo ports. Test Gauge C-3293-SP has a 300 psi
range and is used at the rear servo and overdrive
ports where pressures exceed 100 psi.
AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION - 47RE (Continued)
The rear servo and governor pressure ports are at
the right rear of the transmission case. The overdrive
clutch pressure port is at the left rear of the case.
Fig. 9 Pressure Test Port Locations
There are some test ports on the transmission, and the pressures you see are really useful in the diagnosis.
For example, if the governor pressure sensor is out of whack, you will see that the true governor pressure is not what it needs to be. (And that is the only pressure with an electronic monitor in that transmission)
On the other hand the balance between throttle valve pressure and governor pressure is what controls shifting.
So even with the best scanner you will not be able to see the crucial pressures in the 47RE, and you will not really be able to diagnose it.
You will need 2 gauges, I don't have the specs with me right now, but IIRC I bought a set at autozone or the like for around 50 US$. (But this was a long time ago)
To quote the factory manual:
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - HYDRAULIC
PRESSURE TEST
Hydraulic test pressures range from a low of one
psi (6.895 kPa) governor pressure, to 300 psi (2068
kPa) at the rear servo pressure port in reverse.
An accurate tachometer and pressure test gauges
are required. Test Gauge C-3292 has a 100 psi range
and is used at the accumulator, governor, and front
servo ports. Test Gauge C-3293-SP has a 300 psi
range and is used at the rear servo and overdrive
ports where pressures exceed 100 psi.
AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION - 47RE (Continued)
The rear servo and governor pressure ports are at
the right rear of the transmission case. The overdrive
clutch pressure port is at the left rear of the case.
Fig. 9 Pressure Test Port Locations
#5
Update, i check govenor pressure with a scanner, have not went to the auto store to get gauges, but 1st- 19 psi , 2nd- 25 psi, 3rd- 45 psi , 4th- 50psi, and OD- 60 psi, and if the balance between the govenor pressure and throttle valve pressure was not right , what would you suspect would be the problem?
Thank you
Thank you
#7
Registered User
Update, i check govenor pressure with a scanner, have not went to the auto store to get gauges, but 1st- 19 psi , 2nd- 25 psi, 3rd- 45 psi , 4th- 50psi, and OD- 60 psi, and if the balance between the govenor pressure and throttle valve pressure was not right , what would you suspect would be the problem?
Thank you
Thank you
The governor pressure should rise approximately one psi per mph.
So I do doubt what your scanner told you to be correct. Some scanners do show the desired pressure instead of the actual pressure.
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