2001 24valve No Power at Start
08-27-2016, 02:51 PM
#1
Registered User
Thread Starter
2001 24valve No Power at Start
Hi guys-
Have a 2001 24 valve that only after its sat awhile, when you start it and drive, will act like its stuck in low with no gas pedal. Replaced the tps some time ago when it thru that code. Has not had another tps code , but its doing same thing again. It did go away for a minute. After a few minutes it will take off like normal and will start and drive fine all day again. Usually happens when it sits overnight. Any idea what im missing? Thanks.
Have a 2001 24 valve that only after its sat awhile, when you start it and drive, will act like its stuck in low with no gas pedal. Replaced the tps some time ago when it thru that code. Has not had another tps code , but its doing same thing again. It did go away for a minute. After a few minutes it will take off like normal and will start and drive fine all day again. Usually happens when it sits overnight. Any idea what im missing? Thanks.
08-29-2016, 05:15 PM
#2
Registered User
Thread Starter
just as a note: as far as I know it hasn't set any other codes since we've had it but don't know any prior history or repairs that may have been done before. Anyone else have this problem or do I need to go back and re-read thru forum? Maybe I missed the post- will check again. Any info greatly appreciated.
08-31-2016, 08:40 AM
#3
Administrator
Does it act like it is stuttering/hesitating like it is about to run out of fuel? Or does it run normal but low on power?
Do you have a fuel pressure gauge? If so, what is it reading?
Do you have a fuel pressure gauge? If so, what is it reading?
08-31-2016, 07:53 PM
#4
Registered User
Thread Starter
It doesnt hesitate or stutter, just barely crawls along, no matter what gear, then it just takes off. No smoke or anything. Pedal to the floor makes no difference... Just creeps. But runs like a batouttahell the rest of the day.
09-01-2016, 04:13 AM
#5
Registered User
A lazy guy like me would try to heat the TPS with a hairdryer for 10 minutes after the truck sat overnight.
If it works fine then, you know you have a thermal problem with the TPS, if not- you need to look somewhere else
You should also check the connector on the TPS and on the PCM- Maybe there is something like a loose pin or the like..
If it works fine then, you know you have a thermal problem with the TPS, if not- you need to look somewhere else
You should also check the connector on the TPS and on the PCM- Maybe there is something like a loose pin or the like..
09-01-2016, 09:08 AM
#6
Administrator
Since you have an 01, you can check for codes without a scan tool. Cycle the key three time between the off and on positions, ending in on. Don't start the truck. Again the key sequence is ON - off - ON - off - ON. Then watch the odometer display and write down any codes that may pop up. It will show codes from both computers, the ECM and PCM. In the odometer display they will show as PCU and ECU, no way to make an "M" with our odometers. If there are no codes for that module, it will simply show a row of dashes (---------). Also, after each module is displayed, it will read P DONE. The test is not over until it checks both modules, you will see P DONE twice, and then it will go back to showing mileage.
Let us know if you find any codes. There are a handful of codes that will not trip the check engine light.
Let us know if you find any codes. There are a handful of codes that will not trip the check engine light.
09-01-2016, 09:57 AM
#7
Registered User
Thread Starter
Since you have an 01, you can check for codes without a scan tool. Cycle the key three time between the off and on positions, ending in on. Don't start the truck. Again the key sequence is ON - off - ON - off - ON. Then watch the odometer display and write down any codes that may pop up. It will show codes from both computers, the ECM and PCM. In the odometer display they will show as PCU and ECU, no way to make an "M" with our odometers. If there are no codes for that module, it will simply show a row of dashes (---------). Also, after each module is displayed, it will read P DONE. The test is not over until it checks both modules, you will see P DONE twice, and then it will go back to showing mileage.
Let us know if you find any codes. There are a handful of codes that will not trip the check engine light.
Let us know if you find any codes. There are a handful of codes that will not trip the check engine light.
P0460
P1693
P1740
Seems my light is burned out maybe? Funny the scan tool didnt pick it up last time. Must have just set the codes. Least i have an idea where to start now...
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09-01-2016, 10:21 AM
#8
Administrator
P0460 - P0460 Fuel Level Sensor A Circuit
Is your fuel gauge acting up, or is it normal? The tank sensor does not last forever, and is a common problem on Rams.
P1740 - TCC or OD Solenoid Performance
This one is related to your transmission. I don't believe this is related to your low power problem. Is your transmission acting funny at all?
P1693 - Companion code
This code is the result of us having two computers, the Dodge PCM, and the Cummins ECM. This just indicates that the same malfunction was sensed by both computers.
The check engine light will be lit if there is an active fault, or a recent active fault. If the fault clears, the light will typically turn off after 3 "good trips". The fault code will drop from the memory after about 40 good trips. There are a few codes that will not turn on the light.
If you want to be sure the light is not burnt out, you can run the Instrument Cluster Test:
Is your fuel gauge acting up, or is it normal? The tank sensor does not last forever, and is a common problem on Rams.
P1740 - TCC or OD Solenoid Performance
This one is related to your transmission. I don't believe this is related to your low power problem. Is your transmission acting funny at all?
P1693 - Companion code
This code is the result of us having two computers, the Dodge PCM, and the Cummins ECM. This just indicates that the same malfunction was sensed by both computers.
The check engine light will be lit if there is an active fault, or a recent active fault. If the fault clears, the light will typically turn off after 3 "good trips". The fault code will drop from the memory after about 40 good trips. There are a few codes that will not turn on the light.
If you want to be sure the light is not burnt out, you can run the Instrument Cluster Test:
Originally Posted by Instrument Cluster Test
Insert the key into the ignition and rotate it one click forward to the OFF position. Push and hold the odometer reset button and then turn the key one click forward to the ON position while continuing to hold the reset button in. This will start the test:
- The odometer will read CHEC (you can let go of the odometer reset button here). The Wait To Start, Air Bag, and ABS lights should also light during this step. The PCM controls the instrument cluster, but the ECM, airbag module, and ABS module will function like normal during this which is why their lights are lit at first.
- The odometer will then change and read all 8's. The CRUISE and TRIP indicators under the digits will also be lit. No other indications will be lit during this part of the test. This lasts for about 5 seconds.
- The odometer will then test each and every segment of its display in sequence
- After that, every indicator on the dash will light up, with the exception of the Wait to Start light, turn signals, and high beam indicator. The WTS light is under control of the ECM which is why it does not light during this part of the test.
- The indicators will go out and then all of the gauge needles will move together in three steps. ¼ scale, ½ scale, and then full scale. The exception here is the fuel gauge, it will read 1/8, then ¼, then full.
- The gauges will go back to zero and the test is over. The door chime will sound and the instrument panel will return to normal.
- The odometer will read CHEC (you can let go of the odometer reset button here). The Wait To Start, Air Bag, and ABS lights should also light during this step. The PCM controls the instrument cluster, but the ECM, airbag module, and ABS module will function like normal during this which is why their lights are lit at first.
- The odometer will then change and read all 8's. The CRUISE and TRIP indicators under the digits will also be lit. No other indications will be lit during this part of the test. This lasts for about 5 seconds.
- The odometer will then test each and every segment of its display in sequence
- After that, every indicator on the dash will light up, with the exception of the Wait to Start light, turn signals, and high beam indicator. The WTS light is under control of the ECM which is why it does not light during this part of the test.
- The indicators will go out and then all of the gauge needles will move together in three steps. ¼ scale, ½ scale, and then full scale. The exception here is the fuel gauge, it will read 1/8, then ¼, then full.
- The gauges will go back to zero and the test is over. The door chime will sound and the instrument panel will return to normal.
10-09-2016, 12:44 PM
#9
Registered User
Thread Starter
P0460 - P0460 Fuel Level Sensor A Circuit
Is your fuel gauge acting up, or is it normal? The tank sensor does not last forever, and is a common problem on Rams.
P1740 - TCC or OD Solenoid Performance
This one is related to your transmission. I don't believe this is related to your low power problem. Is your transmission acting funny at all?
P1693 - Companion code
This code is the result of us having two computers, the Dodge PCM, and the Cummins ECM. This just indicates that the same malfunction was sensed by both computers.
The check engine light will be lit if there is an active fault, or a recent active fault. If the fault clears, the light will typically turn off after 3 "good trips". The fault code will drop from the memory after about 40 good trips. There are a few codes that will not turn on the light.
If you want to be sure the light is not burnt out, you can run the Instrument Cluster Test:
Is your fuel gauge acting up, or is it normal? The tank sensor does not last forever, and is a common problem on Rams.
P1740 - TCC or OD Solenoid Performance
This one is related to your transmission. I don't believe this is related to your low power problem. Is your transmission acting funny at all?
P1693 - Companion code
This code is the result of us having two computers, the Dodge PCM, and the Cummins ECM. This just indicates that the same malfunction was sensed by both computers.
The check engine light will be lit if there is an active fault, or a recent active fault. If the fault clears, the light will typically turn off after 3 "good trips". The fault code will drop from the memory after about 40 good trips. There are a few codes that will not turn on the light.
If you want to be sure the light is not burnt out, you can run the Instrument Cluster Test:
11-30-2016, 04:29 PM
#10
Registered User
Thread Starter
Still havent got this one ironed out yet... Still have same codes. Replaced the fuel filter water drain as that was leaking. Developed a hard starting issue after that again. Tightened up the lines and filter but still wont start all the time. The no power is still there until it 'warms up' (for lack ofa better term) but it now smokes like a train until it comes out of the no power mode. Its really not cool doing 20 mph on the freeway on ramp until kicks in, but dont always have time to warm it up when your running late. The truck runs like a champ otherwise. I was told fuel pressure checked out fine, so im at a loss. Lift pump, injection pump? Wouldnt i get a code for that though? Thanks for any thoughts on this in advance.
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