xmr

my truck cranks fine but will not even try to start. I was getting code p0382 so I changed the relay out and now do not get a code but it still won't start. It has warmed up to 62 degrees but sill will not even try to start. I cleared the code and it has not come back. I am getting 12 psi from fuel filter to injector pump and I drained the fuel bowl not sure what else to try. Thanks for any help

johnh

did you try loosening the injector lines while cranking?

KATOOM

Is this something recent or an ongoing problem? Whats the weather temperature when you're trying to start it? Sounds like the grid heater system isnt working but typically you can still start it until the weather gets well below freezing.

johnh

i think his vp 44 is toast

Mike L

Oh Boy! that's gonna ruin his day fer sure!

Hey xmr, can you give us some more information about symptoms? what all else is or was going on prior to the no start situation? Like Johnh asked, did you try cracking the injector lines on the first three to see if you were getting fuel to them?

Let us know, give us some more details if you can.

Cheers!

Mike

johnh

203000 miles is good for original injection pump,when mine went, the electronics went out....no warning.
i shut it off to get some fuel, trued to start it and didn't even fire once so we trailered it to industrial injection in SLC, lucky for me they were still open. (3rd of july) 4 hours later i was on my way home

xmr

even though the temperature was about 61 degrees it had been colder previously. I plugged the block heater in and let it sit for several hours then it started right up it was like it was flooded ? it was not even trying to start when I cranked it before. Never had a starting problem before and I do suspect the grid heater is not working even though I switched out the relays.

KATOOM

So.....it started? If so as you described then I suggest investigating your grid heater system to make sure its actually working, AND fully check out the batteries and cables for condition.

If the batteries are not in perfect condition or the cables (and grounds) are corroded and loose then the amperage will be reduced and the overall engine cranking process will be slower. And because the cylinder is relying on compression heat for combustion, the slower the piston speed the lower the combustion chamber temperature.

This also applies to weak starters too. Lots of people replace their OEM starter with a parts store lifetime warranty remanufactured unit when the contacts need replacing. Then unfortunately the they find out that the replacement starter is much weaker and causes slower cranking over time. Not saying the starter is your problem but just pointing out the problem with replacing the OEM starter.