oilcan64

hi,

what would be the proper way to wire truck for trailer light plug? i was unable to find a wiring kit at any of the local part stores, only had the plugs and adapters so i was thinking find a wiring diagram and just tap into the existing taillight wires? any recommendations or wiring diagrams

thanks in advance

rrgrassi

Brake, turn signal, and tail/marker lights is all you need. I used a kit from a McParts place.

DodgeFreak

not sure exactly what standard is but at work all of our trailer plugs are J560 7pin plugs and is wire
looking at the back of plug
Top center is ground (white)

Top right is Tail (brown)

Top Left is ICC markers (Black) We jumper the ICC Markers and the Tails together because theres no need for us to run Markers and Tails seperate

bottom left, i believe is Left turn (yellow)

Bottom Right is Right turn (green)
Could have these two mixed around.
Bottom Center is Trailer brakes (red)

And center center is Blue which we use for AUX 12 for charging break away battery.

Trailer brakes i've seen wired as a blue wire and 12v aux as red,

but for the most part

Left turn Yellow

Right Turn Greet

Markers Brown

Ground White

Brakes red or blue

Or as my cousin (who took diesel tech) told me Oh color doesn't matter it will still work the same lol....

torquefan

I would definitely add a relay for the tail/marker light circuit so you avoid drawing extra current through the truck's headlight switch. Replaced dozens of burnt up switches and connectors on 1st gen trucks from that circuit being overloaded.

93flatbed

If you have a big trailer with lots of lights I'd run new circuits with relays. If not to many lights or they are all led then you could just tap into your dodge wiring. The thing with that is if something shorts on the trailer you loose truck lights too. It's up to you. I will dig up some diagrams later on and post them up for you if need be.

oilcan64

yea if you dont mind 93flatbed id like to look at them, thanks!

mtdoragary

I second that. Also, replacing all trailer lights with LED's takes a big load off the headlight switch.

NJTman

Great advice here, guys.

I was going to purchase the tail light converter which is a plug and play system

http://www.etrailer.com/Custom-Fit-V...dy/118317.html

But, in order to save $$, I just soldered in some new connections to the new trailer connector I put on my truck listed here.

http://www.etrailer.com/Accessories-...ler/ETBC7.html

It's an incredible value, as you get your electrical connectors, wire, plug and circuit breakers all in one kit. You really don't need anything else, other than basic hand tools and a few more zip ties than they provide.

This kit allows you to run electric brakes so you don't have a trailer pushing you into the car in front of you.

If you buy the harness plug and play, it plugs directly into the connector for the trailer plug included in the kit, and there's no splicing at all.

j_martin

This is going into a waterproof PVC wiring box mounted in the frame just behind the cab.

j_martin

And this is already in the Fiver, hookup for the boat trailer.

Santaclaus

Reference post-nine.
In your schematic it appears that relay K4, operates relay K5, would you please elaborate on the reason for that.
Thanks, Mike.

j_martin

K4 and K5 make up a relay AND circuit. Both ignition and auxiliary have to be on to energize K5 and connect the trailer batteries to the tow. If the ignition switch is in the auxiliary position (listening to the radio) or the start position (auxiliary is dropped by the switch) the batteries are not connected.

That prevents both accidental draining of the engine start battery, and back feed of high current from the trailer during engine starting.

I use the same circuit to hook up snowplow hydraulic pump batteries.

I just noticed the battery circuit doesn't go through the master fuse. The original design was to put the panel near the battery. There's more room, and wiring, especially brake controller, will be shorter by locating the panel underneath. I'll change the drawing.

hope it helps
John

93flatbed

Here's the factory schematic for a 1993. Use this with what that ^dude^ gave you and you should have a bullet proof trailer wiring circuit! Hope that and this helps. Don't forget black tape and butt connectors aren't very good for wiring. Solder and heat shink are the best things you can use. NO SCOTCH LOCKS!!!
Good luck.

93flatbed

needmorewords

mtdoragary

Dang! Next you're gonna tell me I can't twist the connections and wrap them with masking tape!