bigragu

So, it's been 2 almost 3 weeks since I redid my rear brakes, this time with quality parts. All is good, no squealing whatsoever, and it stops well. Because I was pressed for time, I only installed the new raybestos E-brake cables for the rear left and right, and not the main one that heads to the actual pedal in the cab. FSM shows no close up of how it winds and connects to the pedal assembly. For a single cab, the length I ordered was at around 8' or so. Any surprises to be had with this cable? I now realize the surprise with the drivers side rear, and having to shim that to take up the space so it evens up with the passenger side and keeps the channel plumb instead of tilted forward. Used a roll pin as a spacer and all is good. Let me know on the main front cable if anyof you have replaced it. This'll put closure to the rears once and for all, for awhile anyway.

mknittle

I haven't installed a new one . But my old one only took a few minutes to put back in.

j.fonder

it is just a pain in the **** to get the old one out of the pedal in one piece. but i guess if you're replacing it, that won't matter. if you care to hold onto it for a spare, use a small hose clamp. clamp it around the little clip that holds the cable to the pedal, and then yank the cable out.

edit, putting a new one in is easier than removing.

bigragu

OK, thanks. I'm thinking(uh oh) that with the E Brake engaged with the old one on, I can measure and make reference marks as to where the channel that houses the unity of both rear cables is positioned...then yank out the old cable, put in the new, then adjust the channel to fall onto the same position as it was when the old cable was on, thus eliminating raising the rear end of the truck, spinnin' tires, feel in' for rub, etc, etc. Tell you what, as I forgot to pass on kudos to NJTMan, and someone else, but I thought I had come up with the awesome idea of using the stethoscope placed on the drum to "hear" any brake drag. Thought I pioneered something that would be imbedded in future Dodge Field Service Manuals, LOL! After trying the method suggested by TMan on spinning the drum WITHOUT the axle slipped in nor the wheel mounted, man, there is NO better way. Heard the drag very easily, even thru the constant ringing I have in my ears from 30 years of bangin tin. Didn't even spew out any gear lube. I figure by the measuring of the channel location and matching it with the new cable on, I should be darn close. You all see any fault in this method?

mknittle

I just tighten them up until there is a little slack. You could mark the rear cables when the front is off with a silver Sharpe. I wouldn't bother though

j_martin

Like Mark said, the proper brake adjustment is slightly slack. If the rear brakes are adjusted properly (star wheel) the e-brake should fully engage before you run out of pedal.

The bar between the front cable and the 2 rear cables is called an equalizer. It's function is to compensate for any difference in the rear cables. It's OK if it isn't straight.

bigragu

You n Mknittle never cease to amaze me with the tidbit advice. Anyway, I was under the rug" today doing an R&R on the transfer case fluids, and man, those pipe plugs had seized up and kicked my rump trying to break those loose. Ended up removing the skid plate to get tools in there and won the battle. So, copper anti seized those, so hopefully the new plugs I put in won't cause a struggle next time. So, after all that, I'm caught up on all lube changes for awhile. Took a look at that front cable and said to myself "still looks good, still works good". Gonna save that swap out for summer. I'm pooped on workin on that thing. All is good, knock on wood