GIT-R-DONE

Charging problems, replaced alternator, battery checked out ok, new crank sensor, still no charge. Now the wait to start light is flashing constantly now, it wasnt before. Any ideas?
Am going to change over to exterior voltage regulator tomorrow, am almost ready to throw in the towel on this one.

jesussaves

sound like your computer went out, Ive been there its a pain to diagnos it and switched out everything to find out it was the computer.

wannadiesel

Yeah, the flashing WTS light is a bad sign.

GIT-R-DONE

If I do the bypass thing with the exterior voltage regulator, will that get me back on the road or wont that even work? I've been down now for 4 days.

IS the PCM a dealer item only or can you get them at an auto parts...NAPA etc?

Onemoparnut

I think you can get a pcm from napa or any other auto parts store. If you do the external regulator you still wont have a speedo.

W150CTDproject

Pm'd ya

jesussaves

i got mine on ebay, comes with a lifetime guarantee. I think they were called computer exchange or something like that

GIT-R-DONE

Well, I changed it over to the external voltage regulator and still not charging. Took it to local auto parts store to have it tested, to make sure my dash gauge was right, and it was. Just running off the battery.
I followed the sticky info for doing this, but to no avail.
Does the PCM actually do anything else? I dont care about the speedometer or cruise, but why would it not charge with an external voltage regulator?
Crank sensor I plugged in and disconnected, but no difference either. Any more ideas? LOL ( I am trying to keep my sense of humor on this my I am just on this now.

wannadiesel

Is the fusible link in the charging wire blown?

Is the regulator screwed to the firewall/fenderwell/something grounded?

GIT-R-DONE

Wanna, I dont know where the fusible charging wire would be? Is it by the alternator or is it on the battery side? Also, how would you know if it was blown? Any pics or links to what/where that is?

External regulator is @ the passenger side fender and grounded back to a mounting bolt to the alternator. Maybe I did something wrong here. ? .

freight train

No, a fusable link is the thin guage wire. They are a horrible idea in my opinion. All the ones on our trucks can be found coming right off of the positive battery cable. The thick black lead (if I am correct) off of the positive cable. It comes right back to the driver inner fender then it branches off into several fusable links. They are in a couple different colors and power just about everything on the truck.
To check them people sometimes lightly pull on them. I never do that. I use a DVOM and check for continuity from the one end to the other while carefully wiggling them a little. Just be careful. I would find which one is for the charging curcuit by looking in a manual and only mess with that wire. I have ran into a lot of issues with my 92 RC and these. Once they are popped you have no choice but to install a fuse link. I hope I was able to help, and good luck.

GIT-R-DONE

Ok, still no charge, tried a different alternator, still no charge. The one heavier wire going to the battery (one with a fusible link) gets hot when I go to turn the key on , waiting for the WTS light to go out, but it never goes out now.
Now I have owned 3-4 of these trucks and never had this much problem with the wiring. Normally, the WTS light is on for a few seconds, then it turns off, and you continue on starting the vehicle.
For me to backtrack what I did the day this all happened, I just changed the fuel filter and the oil filter. Is there anything in those areas that I could have ...moved, bumped, done myself that would have caused this? I really didnt have any problem changing anything....
Am going to start changing these fusible links out.

wannadiesel

There are a couple connectors back there and the crank sensor wires run through one.

GIT-R-DONE

I got a pcm from another member, changed it out and ...yet....still no charge. I have had it to the dealer and they told me all the wires checked out ok.voltage,ohms, that kind of thing.
The PCM I believe is ok, as it acts normal now.....as the wait to start light now goes out, wires dont get hot, that sort of thing. All is normal that way.
I am now going to change the complete wiring harness. Something has to be going on somewhere, I just cant find it. Any other ideas?

wannadiesel

Did you check the connectors and wiring I mentioned in my previous post?