Dan s

was leaving work when all electric from switch failed. Windows and lights work. No wind shield wipers or blinkers. I jumped the fss from the battery and jumped it through the starter to get home. I've checked fuse box but didn't find anything. Fuseable links? Don't know much about them. Any suggestions plz. When I try to start it with the key I get nothing

ok so I found witch fuseable link it was. The orange one. Temporally jumped it with a small piece of wire. Burnt my fingers n the process. What size wire and inline fuse should I put n it. I'm out of town working so I won't fix it till I get home. Thanks again n advance

texasprd

If the fusible link was orange, you either replace it with another orange one or replace it with a 6ga wire and an appropriate fuse or breaker (the fusible link is two sizes smaller than the wire it protects). Orange FL is 10ga and protects a 6ga circuit - see Custom battery Cables online order page for wire..

If you replace it with an inline fuse or breaker, you'll need to look up the amperage capacity of a 6ga wire - but that depends on the length of the wire, as I recall. American Wire Gauge table and AWG Electrical Current Load Limits with skin depth frequencies and wire breaking strength

Dan s

i tried to replace ace it with a 40amp ato fuse. It will start but it blows when I try to drive it. I blew about 5 then I tried to put hot wire to fss but it sparked and tried to get hot. When I removed the actual wire that activates the fss I could then jump a hot wire to it so I could get back to my campsite. Any ideas. I won't have a day off till Sunday so I only have an hour or so n the late afternoon to try and figure it out

Dan s

so so I have read every sticky about fuseable links and I still don't understand why when I try to accelerate it blows the 40 amp fuse that I have installed. I'm gonna try and get some more tomar after work. I saw one thread that had the same symptoms as my truck has but it just stops with no answers. Any suggestions are greatly appreciated

texasprd

You need to find out what the peak load is on that circuit. You mentioned "fss" - fuel shutoff solenoid? Which side? the "maintain" side or the "start"/pull-up side? The load may be considerably more than you think, if the wire length is very short and the usage-duration is short. (I was amazed when an auto-electrical shop owner told me the 10-15 seconds the heater grids are on is considered "momentary"...). I suggest calling Larry B/Foster Truck and asking about the current requirements for the fuel solenoids they sell, the upping the current estimate several percentage points (their solenoids claim to be lower current draw).

For now, if worse comes to worst, you can disconnect the FSS plunger from the fuel lever on the injection pump, and manually move the injection pump lever to the "up" position and wire it in place so the engine will start and run.

Dan s

well. I got a chance to work on the truck today. It still blows the 40 amp fuse. I took the fuse out and straight wired it. Checked it with a volt meter. 14 volts with no surging. Let it run for a while to see if the wire would get hot. It didn't. Starting to think the fuse may not be big enough. Even though all the threads on here say it should be a 40 amp fuse. It works for now but I don't like the no inline fuse part. Not sure what to do next. And yea I meant the fuel shut off switch. I have it wired back up now and seems to work fine

torquefan

Sounds to me like a dead short somewhere, rather than an overload. I would grab a factory service manual, identify the problem circuit on a wiring diagram and try to figure out where all that circuit runs in your truck. Then you can try to track down the short. I've seen chafed wires behind the steel plate bolted to the side of the injection pump. Follow the blue wire from the FSS and see if it's rubbing on a sharp edge somewhere.

Dan s

So yesterday I went to drive my truck down the rad just to get it to temp. We had a cold snap n Macon ga. Of course when I started it the wait to start light came on. After it started I let it idle a 5 or six minutes and went to go down the road. What was left of the fuseable link failed. When it happened the grid heater was cycling on and off causeing the volt gauge to go up and down. I figure this is typical. As n earlier posts I had it straight wired with a piece of 10 gauge wire. I drove it earlier in the week and it did fine but it was warm. Could it be possible that the fuseable part of the wire harness is just old and worn out. At this point it is burnt all the way back into the "y" part of the harness. So now I have no choice but go straight to the battery or cut the y apart and start there. Also I was wondering if anyone knows if the alternator will charge if there is no power to the dash. Reason being. If it does that would mean that I could just jump the fuel shut off selinoid and drive home and fix it when I get back to my garage. I'm n a campground right now. Just want to say thanks in advance. Not trying to be aggravating but I'm at a point that I know I've got to rewire the truck but I really want to do it at my house and not n a campground. I start night shift next week for about 2 months and that will suck to have to do it a little everyday before work

Dan s

Anyway. This is the ole girl

patdaly

Ahha!

You have a first gen,I will move this to the first gen section where more guys will see it.

No biggie, but the wiring is different by miles between the 2.

Dan s

Thanks. I saw that it was n the wrong place a couple of days ago.

mknittle

Those fusible links. It isn't an if it will fail but when.
Fortuitously there are several fixes. Replacing the links with maxi or other heavy duty fuses and doing the headlight and heater motir relay harness Jim Lane is famous for contributing


MMMM red nice. and the older style grille my favorite.

torquefan

Beautiful truck!

Dan s

Thanks. It still has a long way to go

Dan s

So this where I'm at. I got one red that runs back to the starter relay. Will it need a fuse. Also there is a pink wire that was by itself not in the duck foot. The fuseable link I'm having trouble with runs to a red wire (that's the one with the wire nut). Wire nut is temporary. I'm still n the trial and error stage