GLHS

The G56 I have is from an 05. I would not use this year no matter what and, it is just a core.
I think 15 more pounds of aluminum could have done wonders for this sissy looking case.
I need to find a zf6 from a 6.0 ford and do some measuring. I understand this version is a little stronger than the 7.3 and the bellhousing is different.
Would like to have that .72 overdrive ratio and a 2nd to 3rd straight shift.

I have looked at Quad 4x4s site for many years. He wants an arm and a leg for the "gold shaft". Although Quads is the utimate solution, most 5th gear problems are remedied with your average fully splined main shaft.

My mind is not made up yet but I am getting more ideas.

Billut

since the original question included the nv45, I would just consider the ease of the swap to this kind of transmission, not to mention that a number of people have done it, so the knowledge is there.
just my 2 pennies...

GLHS

Now I have a good G56 from a 2008. The good overdrive ratio.
I think I have become a transmission hoarder.
Two Getrags, 2 G56s and one NV4500.

cougar

If your not using that 4500

PapeCAT

yeah I'm the same way I have 4 getrags and a spare getrag case and a couple extra top covers as well

GLHS

The 4500 is also a core.
It is a 2002 version with the bolt on shifter top.
Dan at Midwest transmissions in MN says he can rebuild it with billet 1-3/8 input, fully splined mainshaft and cyrogenic treated 3rd, 4th and fifth gears for about $16-1700.
A chunk of change I know but have not found anyone else to do it for less or make it as strong.

Crossy's son

Don't forget about the BD short throw shifter you can get for 98+ NV4500's.

2500

so are the NV4500 stronger than G56?

Lucas1

yes

Zac Western

I have an 01 lb7 duramax with the zf6 it has 232780 miles on it currently with a 650hp southbend dual disk clutch that has roughly 2000 miles on it, I am the first owner to chip this truck and run it hard and the only issue I have is that the 3rd gear synchro is startin to go which from what I've read is typical other than that it runs like a dream 140hp over on canned tunes, next 800 bucks I get I'm hitting up longhorn fab shop for efi live. The shift pattern is something to get used to but after that it's ok to deal with.

deere country

Well remember you don't have the internal oil pump and oil cooler out front like the ford version. You may want to think about a trans temp gauge and and pto plate coolers with your next $800 before the efi live.

Zac Western

That 800 is with a trans temp and boost gauge didn't mention that before, I was kind of eyeballing a pto plate cooler at one point didn't know anything about the company so I dismissed it, any you'd recommend?

deere country

I am only aware of two different builders of the plate coolers and they are both good units.

sdmuleman

1) My experience is Ford diesel more than dodge, but what I finally finished doing not long ago is putting a US Gear Dual Range (Same as Dog Nash DNE2) box behind the ZF5 in my truck which I find is a very nice solution to have too wide of gears. The one I have is an underdrive (1.25:1), they also have a 0.8 overdrive version. The box is electrically shifted 2 speed full gear type trans, not a hydraulic setup like gear vendors so it can be used for gear splitting at any speed and can take insane amounts of torque - think it's rated 25k GVW but I bet will handle more unless you abuse it. It shifts like a 2 speed rear end, and at least with the ZF5 gives a nice gear split. For my setup I fabricated a custom adapter to put it behind the t-case because 4wd versions are hard to find - not sure what would be the best approach on the Dodge rigs.

2) Haven't actually built one yet, but I think you could make a pretty effective oil cooler system for cheap using an external water cooler - instead of actually pumping trans oil out, through a cooler and back, just use water external to the trans. Basically the same thing as a water to air intercooler (ie frozenboost) but on the trans. A cheap 12v pump and some sort of small radiator should work for that side and then I think if you take some copper pipe and make some sort of a loop type thing that can be clamped flat on the trans you should be able to remove a decent amount of heat. Only real hard part is getting good enough conduction between the trans case and the copper pipe. Maybe even solder it on a spare pto block plate and go that way.

Point is that a manual trans (and rear end) really aren't producing that much heat... it's more the fact that they only can shed it by what small amount of air flows over them, and that after being heated by the engine mostly. So all you need to do is help out some. Water is a very effective transfer media, and the case will conduct heat quite well to the oil if you can cool it down some. So no need to spend a ton of money for fancy stuff when you can probably get what you need fairly easily instead.