feets

I've been fighting a sloppy steering problem with my 92 D250. The little guy has 287,000+ miles on it. I rebuilt the front end a few years ago and put another idler arm and drag link in it a month ago.
The steering was still sloppy so I fiddled with the adjuster on top of the box. The first adjustment was a bit too aggressive once I hit the road so I hit a parking lot and backed it off a bit. There is still almost 30 degrees of slop in the wheel. I can actually feel the steering assist change as I'm bouncing back and forth between steering movements.

I shut the truck off, unlocked the column, and turned the shaft by hand. I could feel it knocking as it hit the end of the slop.

I didn't remove the box and mess with the preload before messing with the adjustment. Is that going to make a difference or is it simply time to get a new box?


I've been avoiding it because I just don't have much spare time and the truck rarely gets driven.

Diesel_Dawg

I would say it is time to get a new steering box. I have had good experiences with the Red Head steering boxes I installed on my 92 W250 and my 2001.5 3500 QC LB 4x4.

mknittle

Could be a bad coupler between the box and column.

sooty

you should climb under it while someone steers it, in short back and forth turns, to identify loose part/parts, I use a stethoscope rod to hear minimal slop joints, watch steering column activity to output pitman arm activity, boxes make noise with the slightest slop. to check upper/lower control arms, you need a long pry bar, mines 4' to pry joints forward/back side to side, also check control arm rubber at frame bushing for visible decomposition, you getting any metal on metal noise on bumpy roads?

feets

I know the LCA bushings are worn already.
There are no sloppy bits in the steering linkage. It's all tight now that I replaced the not-very-old drag link and idler arm.

I did not detect appreciable slop between the column and the adapter. The rag joint is tight.

NJTman

I agree with the others here regarding finding the weak link. Lying on your side, while another gently turns the steering wheel back and forth can show a lot of information. Being your truck is 2wd, it may be a bit tighter to look around underneath, but it's still a good option.

BTW, Changing the preload (the screw on the steering box) if done incorrectly, can do irreparable damage to the gear, which ultimately will require a new gear to be installed. If so, change out the hoses and pump at the same time, as otherwise, you'll contaminate (or could) the new gear with little bits floating around in the rest of the system.

ARCHIVE

HELP!! I am experiencing the steering on my '91 W250 pulling left, then pause in middle, then right, then left and it continues back and forth. There was slop but I did not have this pulling until I turned the wheel with truck standing still, that was the start of the pulling back and forth.

The truck was next to undriveable, so this week I replaced the steering gear with a remanufactured unit from Autozone, because of the slop in the old box, it also got new lines and fresh flushed through pump.
There is now zero play in the box, drag link and tie rod. Only a little in the steering coupler. The steering feels very nice now. Also, I didnt see any cracks in frame or steering gear mounting plate, truck has 121,000 miles.

Why all the sudden is this happening? Broken Kingpin spring? Frustrated.

j_martin

All the first gen steering gears I've messed with (3) I've found that the PO has tried to adjust the preload to "tighten up" the steering, and they were all tight, one extremely so. That adjustment can't be made on the truck. It requires measurement of torque in the inch ounce range to accomplish. Over tightening it does nothing but damage the ball screw assembly.

MrFusion

Chip at Power Steering Service says to NEVER mess with the pre-load on boxes he has rebuilt as he sets them to optimum output. He also says that the potential damage you can cause far out weighs any potential benefit. Basically it is a poor solution to a steering problem. Kind of like adding or replacing a steering stabilizer to cure death wobble.

NJTman

YUP.... He said the same thing to me.

He also reiterated what J Martin Said above. It CANNOT be adjusted correctly on the truck. It MUST be bench adjusted with precision instruments that don't fit under there.

NJTman

So, the steering feels nice.... what's the issue at hand ?

mknittle

Yeap!

mknittle

I had a broken kingpin bushing when I disassembled mine.

ARCHIVE

I will have to look at it, I just purchased some new MOOG tie rod ends in case they are bad since I read some owners just needed to adjust the toe inward, and if I am going to get it aligned, figured it should have new tie rod ends first.

Rockauto.com had them for $33 per side, $40 cheaper each side than the price of local stores

mknittle

That is usually the case around here the local stores are outrageous.
I am going to do the same plus the drag link. At some point I may even be able to drive this thing. although my wife doesn't hold much hope for that..