Steering box bracket broken in half!
01-29-2015, 11:10 AM
#31
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01-29-2015, 11:30 AM
#33
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I had to wrap a chain around mine with a load binder to tighten it up to get myself out of the bush while we were hunting out in the bush. No tow truck for over a 100 miles. Of course I wouldn't want to drive around much in the city like that though. I think it took me about 3 hours in the cold to swap that plate out in the yard. Had to take it apart again a couple of weeks later to tighten everything up better. Worst part was taking off the hydraulic lines. My fittings were seized to the lines.
01-29-2015, 02:20 PM
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01-29-2015, 03:08 PM
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01-29-2015, 06:54 PM
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Front end can stay on the ground, but steering box MUST come off.
Off the top of my head the bolts and nuts are 13/16 (maybe 7/8) holding the box on. I forget what size the power steering line nuts are.
It will be a MAJOR pain to get the forward most nut and bolt off. Will need 2 open end box /combo wrenches for that one.
Will need 12 point 3/8 sockets to get the special nuts out at the steering column rag joint. Those may be rusty and seized depending on your climate. Freeze-off and MAPP torch may help.
Will need a punch and a wood cushion to drive the roll pin out of the steering coupler. If you don't support the coupler, it will ruin the seal. Make sure you have a big screwdriver or pickle fork to pry the coupler off the shaft.
Will need 11/16 or 5/8 sockets to get the plate off the steering box. An impact makes it so much easier......
Torque wrench to put it back together.
You'll be on the ground a long time. That front nut is the worst....
Off the top of my head the bolts and nuts are 13/16 (maybe 7/8) holding the box on. I forget what size the power steering line nuts are.
It will be a MAJOR pain to get the forward most nut and bolt off. Will need 2 open end box /combo wrenches for that one.
Will need 12 point 3/8 sockets to get the special nuts out at the steering column rag joint. Those may be rusty and seized depending on your climate. Freeze-off and MAPP torch may help.
Will need a punch and a wood cushion to drive the roll pin out of the steering coupler. If you don't support the coupler, it will ruin the seal. Make sure you have a big screwdriver or pickle fork to pry the coupler off the shaft.
Will need 11/16 or 5/8 sockets to get the plate off the steering box. An impact makes it so much easier......
Torque wrench to put it back together.
You'll be on the ground a long time. That front nut is the worst....
I'm not seeing it... I see the four 3/8 bolts. Those look like it should get it in the clear
01-29-2015, 07:39 PM
#38
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If you still have he bar and trunion stock ujoint at the box end of the shaft, there is a bolt/pin that keeps it on the spllnes..Mark
01-29-2015, 11:01 PM
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Looks like I do. Also looks like a can pull the four 3/8" bolts from the other end of the shaft and get everything out as one unit (shaft and steering box) think this would work?
01-29-2015, 11:25 PM
#41
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It might. The only thing is that I have to swing my steering box around to get my pitman arm tool on it...Mark
01-30-2015, 01:11 AM
#42
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Take that pin out and the splined coupler pries off the sector pretty easily. Mark it's location and for sure TIE OR LOCK DOWN THE STEERING WHEEL before you disconnect anything. What's at peril here is the clock spring.
01-30-2015, 08:20 AM
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01-30-2015, 12:05 PM
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01-30-2015, 12:28 PM
#45
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I have always known them as bar and trunion type u-joints. Mopar used them on drive shafts in mid-sixties Darts and Valiants. If there is a better name, I am sure that someone will chime in with it...Mark