cabtruck

Just bought a club cab checked floor rocker and top of windshield for rust everything looked good . started stripping it for paint got to the headliner got it out and I can push my fingers through the inter roof. didn't see that coming. how hard is the inside roof to change

peckens

Depends on how nice you want it to look. Cutting a patch and tacking it in is easy.

cabtruck

I'm doing a frame up rebuild I don't want the rust to come back I'm probably going to find another cab there not easy to find in good shape

thrashingcows

Look in the dry areas of the continent....better to pay a bit more to get a truly rust free cab, then one that might be a bit cheaper now, but start rusting in 5 years.

cabtruck

Thought I had a good cab every thing is rust free but the inside roof. floor pan still has paint rockers are perfect. drip rail good factory paint bad thing is I bought the truck for the cab can't catch a break

j_martin

The roof rot is caused by condensation, usually when warm sweaty bodies occupy the cab in cold weather.

That said, the roof area is never rust proofed, and is probably more vulnerable than any other area. If that's the only area that's rough on this one, you should just repair it. Parts from a half ton will fit. You could piece both the inner skin and outer skin. Outer is going to be finished and painted, and inner will be covered by the headliner, so what's the big deal. Be sure to get the rustproofing wax in there before you close it up.

I would, however, check the other "sound" areas closely to be sure they aren't just a thick layer of nicely applied bondo. (BTDT, got the T shirt)

cabtruck

The outer roof skin is good I sandblasted the floor pan rockers and roof drip rail there isn't any bondo I'm going to cut the inter roof out and see how bad it is in there but keep looking for another cab

j_martin

The outer skin rusts from the inside, so you're likely to find some trouble there.

edwinsmith

I think Zinc Dust Primer does a good job of rust proofing. Galvanizing is better but hard to do to a whole cab.

cabtruck

I'm going to cut the inter roof out of it in the next couple days then I will no how bad it is

MARF75

What is rustproofing wax??

patdaly

PRO FORM - Products

j_martin

The stinky inner panel protectorant that the pros use is a hard wax carried in a penetrating solvent. When it dries, it leaves a hard wax coating that repels water, salt, etc. You don't need the rubberized stuff there because there's no sand and gravel impacts to deal with.

You can buy it in a rattle can. You can buy the rubber stuff in a rattle can also.

lockgessner

Two words: Bar rust; never used anything but bar rust 235 (there are other variations) made by devoe coatings an internal paint partner(international make lots of marine coatings) About 75$ a gallon kit. We use it as a primer for my work boat and the deckies have painted over flacking garbage rust 2 years ago with no sign of failure yet(salt water environment) I can't say enough good things about it Im actually in the process off painting my truck and will be using it under my omni epoxy in problem areas and have also decided to use there clear based of the experience I've had with the bar rust 235
http://www.superfpaint.com/products/Devoe-Bar-Rust-235-Multi-Purpose-Epoxy-Coating.html

Hope my link works.. Good luck with your project!

Alec

Have you ever used their Pre-Prime 167 product? My experience with epoxy & urethane coatings is that they are very sticky and form a very tough film, but don't penetrate well, so once the film is compromised, it's all over. (In comparison, the old rustoleum primer with fish oil in it, when applied over rust, if you sanded it off later, you could see & smell traces of the paint all the way down to bare metal.)

It seems to me this Pre-Prime product could make all of the difference for things like getting into seams, drip edges, etc. before applying sealant, and keeping corrosion from forming around field-repair welds, etc.