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Rebuild your front D60 4x4 brakes (General)

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Old 09-06-2013, 05:26 PM
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Just keep bleeding. RWAL first, the. Passenger rear, driver side rear, passenger front, driver front. Make sure your helper is actually helping, make some commands to be totally clear they are still holding the pedal down while you tighten the bleeder each stroke. I've used an entire liter bottle of fluid before to get rid of all bubbles.
Old 02-11-2014, 12:05 PM
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I just finished this and I noticed that after reinstalling the locking hub, there is a small gap between the locking hub and the hub itself.

I do not recall if there was a gap before I took everything apart. If I remove the o ring the locking hub sits flush against the hub but when I put the o-ring back in it won't.

If anyone could tell me if they have a gap between the locking hub and hub I would appreciate it. It doesn't seem right to me. I'll attach a picture.

ETA: the gap is the same on both sides.
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Old 02-11-2014, 12:29 PM
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Originally Posted by qmikep
I just finished this and I noticed that after reinstalling the locking hub, there is a small gap between the locking hub and the hub itself.

I do not recall if there was a gap before I took everything apart. If I remove the o ring the locking hub sits flush against the hub but when I put the o-ring back in it won't.

If anyone could tell me if they have a gap between the locking hub and hub I would appreciate it. It doesn't seem right to me. I'll attach a picture.

ETA: the gap is the same on both sides.

Shouldn't be a GAP.
Old 02-11-2014, 12:44 PM
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Didn't think so.

I don't understand why the only thing that is making a difference is the o ring.

Everything else is in correctly. maybe I got to much grease in there.
Old 02-11-2014, 01:02 PM
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Could the o-ring need compressed?
Old 02-11-2014, 01:04 PM
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Well just pulled one side back apart. The locking hub face will sit flush with no o ring but not with the o ring. If I take the internal locking hub parts out, the locking hub face still will not sit flush with the oring in, but will if I take it out.

I think the o ring has to be to large. I believe warn has round and square cut o rings and maybe it was replaced with the wrong parts at some point.

I don't have any toher ideas but its definitely the sealing oring(s).
Old 02-11-2014, 01:06 PM
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Originally Posted by NE frmhnd
Could the o-ring need compressed?
If I did anymore I'm pretty sure I would strip the threads out of the internal part. I'm going to give warn a call and ask about the sealing o ring(s).
Old 02-11-2014, 03:40 PM
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if when jacked up the hub works properly as in engages and disengages i wouldn't sweat the o ring gap. i would use the oring snug it down and head down the road. jmo. doug
Old 12-17-2014, 11:15 PM
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None of the pictures show up for this thread anymore (or is it just my PC doing this)??
Old 12-18-2014, 10:18 AM
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I can't see em' either...
Old 12-18-2014, 10:56 AM
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Must of been deleted?
Old 12-18-2014, 11:09 AM
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We just changed Photo software as the old stuff was no longer supported and apparently we did not have a smooth transition....we are looking into the issue.

Sorry for the inconvenience.....
Old 12-18-2014, 09:09 PM
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The pics are back! Thanks for fixing it so quick!
Old 07-23-2015, 12:02 PM
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Hey I am doing both wheel bearing in the front axle on my 93 Dodge cummin 4x4...( how tight should the bearings be with the wheels on).. if I spin it by hand should it spin 2-3 rotation before stopping... I went 300in lbs on the inner nut and 150ft lb on the outer nut like it says in the post but one side is loser than the other thanks.
Old 05-05-2016, 07:50 AM
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Bearing Seals?

What is the part number for the bearing seals?
Thanks!


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