RBishop

my lock housing isn't sliding out. it seems to be catching on something. what could it be?

Ironforger

I agree with Dean, excellent writeup but bearings must be packed either by hand or with a bearing packer tool. A brush should never be used as it cannot pack the grease in, and risk of bristle intrusion.

BC847

I don't know what to tell you good folks.

The brush I used was in excellent shape with no bristles braking with the worst of manually abusing it.

I thoroughly cleaned the bearings of all matter before repacking them. I look at what I am doing and make sure to fully pack the bearing components. I then manually roll the bearing around with my hands to ensure the grease is well worked into the thing. Keep in mind, the grease is for the most part, pushed out of the ball/roller bearing's way during normal operation. It's not like a liquid oil bath.

With a simple basic brush in good condition, it works just fine. I've used this method with the original bearings for over 200,000 miles with no issues.

#2isgreen

A wonderful post, thank you. I have new rotors, calipers and wheel seal all on its way to me right now. I had a caliper fail to release and eat a pad/warp the rotor silly. I've done rotors a few times on other (newer) vehicles and never had to go through disassembling the entire hub assembly, is this really necessary, or just good practice? I ordered the wheel seal just in case, as that looks like the only new part needed other than the rotor (for me at least).

Thanks

maybe368

It's necessary......Mark

#2isgreen

OK... Do i need to have the lugs pressed out to get the old rotor off the hub tube? And get new lugs to press them back together?

maybe368

I believe so, but the place I took them to used a big hammer...Mark

grim

ive got a bit of brake drag in my front passenger tire.
im thinking its the rotor cause there are some grooves in it. i want to get it resurfaced. do i have to take the hub and bearings apart to remove the rotor? or is there a way to do it without?
If not i may as well inspect my bearings and repack em. also, do you need the snap ring pliers or is there something else thatll work?

GREAT writeup!
thanx for the help

Bogie

Good write up, as a cheap upgrade you can use Chevy rotors (and calipers/pads) when replacing as the Chevy rotors are a fair bit thicker.

#2isgreen

If its constant drag the cheapest place to start is take off the caliper assembly and clean the little track it rides on. It might just not be releasing fully. Mine seized there and warped the heck out of the rotor, could have saved a brake job if I had known to lube it

grim

No it's just in one spot on the rotation

Resbum

Thanks for the great write up.

THANK YOU very much for this pic. I've been searching for a day and a half for info about the inner pad.

I posted this next part in another forum before discovering DTR, and got zero responses after +100 views of the thread. Can someone please answer these two questions with certainty? I know the picture answers one of the questions. Just want to be sure.


1991 front Dana 60 brake pad install

I'm generally pretty darn good at tracking down info on the 'net. However, I have hit a blackhole of info on the proper orientation the inner brake pads should go on with their anti-chatter spring.

Specifics:
1- A 1991 Dodge front Dana 60 donor axle, with Bendix calipers, going in a project truck.
2- The inner pads I'm using have a metal wear indicator rivetted on the backing and it wraps around one of the tabs to rub the rotor when the pad gets low.
3- And then there's the anti-chatter spring.

So, here's the questions:
1- Does the tab of the brake pad with the wear indicator go into the high slot on the bracket, or the low slot?
2- Does the anti-chatter spring clip over the tab that goes in the high slot of the bracket, or the low slot?

I have two sets of directions/info and both sets say to make sure of the orientation, but neither tells me what it is. Go figure.

Thanks for any help. Brakes are one of those things I prefer not to make assumptions with.

Resbum

BILTIT

Does this help?

https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...ighlight=brake

Resbum

Resbum

dougjohnson61

This post was very helpful indeed. I just finished replacing universals, new rotors, calipers and pad. I bleed the system of air, topped up the master cylender and took for a test run. I applied the brakes and experienced brake fade as the pedal went to the limit. I pumped it up and the pedal gained some resistance, however the next time I applied the brakes the same thing happended and I put the pedal to the floor with very slow braking. I came back and checked the resourvor and it had gone down very little.
I believe I will have to bleed the breaks again, but is there something else I am missing? Did a good job of bleeding first time...I think. Is there something else I am missing? I did a full re and re of the back brakes, drum and cylender last year but wondering if I need to readjust to take up the extreme pedal travel. Any help, comments or suggestiions would be much appreciated.