cobalt

Hey guys. I've been lurking for a bit now and and tried to soak up as much information as possible. Hands down, this forum and stickies have been the most helpful.

I picked up a 1989 Ramcharger with a 12v and auto tranny from a guy who did not do the swap himself. That being said, I'm at a disadvantage in knowing exactly what and how the swap was done. I also don't have much knowledge with 1st gens so I'm trying to learn as much as I can and document my celebrations and struggles here



I was told by the seller that the donor truck was a 1992 D250 and that the Ramcharger had a 47RH tranny. After spending a good bit of time under the truck I see that I lack the 3 wire plug so I'm thinking I have a 46RH (OD switch under steering column). Now I'm questioning if I really have a 1992 if I have a D70 or D60. Or maybe even the stock Ramcharger axle which I believe would be the Chrysler 9 1/4"? Assuming not since the diff cover is stamped "Dana". This post from NJTman has been helpful.





The passenger rear brakes are hosed big time. Wheel bearings shot, some springs broken, and plenty of grit in the axle tube (thinking metal shavings but hoping not). As I start replacing these parts, I'd like to be confident that I'm asking/ordering the correct parts. Has anyone had issue returning parts to Rockauto?

Driver's side drum brakes:



And a shot of my 4th gen daily:

freight train

Definitely not a Dana 9.25. Being the cover reads its a 1983 I would suspect it to be a D60. But it will have a stamping on it to confirm. I cant shed any light on the trans as I row my own in all my rigs. If the previous owner utilized a 1992 donor why didn't he use the 92 D70? You didn't post any pics of the engine bay so we could see the wiring. As that's the most important part of the conversion. Very clean RC as most around have a lot of cancer.

j.fonder

it's a dana 70. the housing extends ~1" below the diff cover on a dana 70 whereas in a 60, the cover is flush with the bottom of the housing.

in your picture, you have the lip, therefore, its a 70.

not sure why having a 92 donor would make you think it was something other than a 60/70, because thats what came standard in a 92.

there will also be either a "60" or "70" cast into the center section on one of the "gusset" looking pieces between the diff cover and the axle tubes.

gyman98

Looks like someone put a d60 cover on a d70 to me

eirher way I like it and I'm looking forward to updates

thrashingcows

If you have grit and debris inside the axle tube itself I would try and clean it out the best you can. A long piece of 2x2 and a large washer screwed to the end will work as a scrapper to pull the debris towards the axle tube end.

I had a D60 that the axle tubes were full of rust. The vent tube was not working when I got it and the moisture that got into the axle couldn't get out. Cleaned it the best I could and drove on it for over 3 years...towing included....and never had an issue.

Cool project and congrats. There will always be some work that needs to be done when you inherit someone else project. I'm hoping to do my cummins conversion on my RC (Sno-ball) in a year or two.

cobalt

Thanks for the responses.

tc - Appreciate that tip to clean out the tubes. I was afraid it was metal shavings but I'm thinking/hoping it's rust now.

fonder - I'm not entirely sure which year model parts were pieced together. Because the seller was wrong about the 47RH, I'm a little gun shy to call the donor truck a 1992. Shoot maybe there wasn't just one donor?

They did a fairly good job, though I think. Engine and front suspension pictures:





Took off the door panel to troubleshoot the driver and passenger windows not working. Driver side had no motor or regulator. Passenger side (pic below) has both motor and regulator. Getting voltage from both switches so need to order those parts.



Any recommendation on plastic barriers?

thrashingcows

Yikes...they sure hacked up that inner door structure to get at the bolts for the power window motor! Might want to search through the sticky for the door re-enforcing thread......

I just use a heavy clear poly and tape it in place with a good clear packing tape.....seems to hold up fine.

Is the motor painted Ford blue? Should look for a proper grid heater solenoid....not sure how well that generic starter solenoid they have in there will hold up.

cobalt

That's the good side!!

thrashingcows

Geeze....lazy people is all that is. The window mechanisms can be a real PITA to wrestle in and get lined up....but if you have a little bit of patience and stick to it you can get them in/out fine.

Blue Goose

nice rig...but whtf did they do to the doors? I'm not big on patience, but I've never had trouble changing windows or regulators, although I've never messed with power.

u2slow

Looking at the spindle end of the axle housing, it appears both bearing journals are the same size. That makes it a Dana 60 rear. Should have 3" axle tubes, and 30 spline shafts. If the inner journal was larger it would be a Dana 60HD/61 or 70 (w/3.5" axle tubes). A Dana 70 would 32 or 35 spline shafts.

The front lower control arm appears to be a 3500# (low) GVWR arm. A cummins (or 1ton) 3850/4000# front suspension has a depressed ~2" pocket in the arm and takes a longer spring.

A non-lockup a518 (46RH) is correct for '92.


I'm building an '84 RC 2wd with guts from a '90 D250.... so I'm kinda savvy on the pieces I put in it

cobalt

Well....

u2slow might be right. The drums came in from rockauto :

(Raybestos 8102R Outside Diameter 13.86" / 8 Bolts / Not Finned Rear; 3.91" Overall Height; with 12 IN x 2-1/2 IN Brakes)

They are too short. I think around ~3.7". The ones I pulled are right at 4".

The axle shafts are 1.3" in diameter and are 30 spline.

cobalt

Slow going with the Rib out of town and playing Mr. Mom.

Having a hell of a time getting the e-brake spring/clip pulled apart and attached on the arm.

Any tricks out there? Not finding anything

thrashingcows

Which end of the cable....inside the drum? There are a couple different types, a small metal clip that is separate from the cable, and the other is two small metal plates that are fixed to the cable end.

cobalt

I was able to get the barrel nut into the lever/arm by:

a) taking a break
b) drinking a beer
c) get another set of hands to help

New problem is I'm virtually certain I have the D60 and the Timken 417158 inner seal does not fit (too large). I'm headed to the store now to find a replacement.

The people at the parts store have trouble finding parts because I have a bit of a Frankenstein. What year make/model should I tell them to look up for rear D60 parts?