gregstraightedg

The Getrag in my 93 W250 stopped shifting on me. I thought it was the hydraulic assembly, but wanted to do an NV4500 swap anyway. So I bought the kit from High Impact and a single disc clutch with 13" flywheel from Southbend. Transmission nose cone was machined to 4.297. Splines were measured and are 4.75.
Flywheel installed and bolts torqued to 100 pounds. Clutch plate is facing the correct direction and clutch torqued to 30 pounds. Clutch bearing is well greased and facing the correct direction. Everything went together smoothly. New hydraulic slave and master (pre-filled kit) installed. Shifter installed in the new hole in the floor.
Once everything was said and done I still have the same non-shifting problem as I did with the Getrag. The only two variables that are not brand new is the clutch fork which does not appear to be bent, and the clutch pedal assembly which also appears to be OK.
When I took out the Getrag I did find a broken spring in the bell housing, but the clutch appeared to be fine.
Any suggestions?

Other clues
When I put the v4500 and transfer case in I went through the gears before attaching the driveshafts. Everything worked fine, shifting through the gears and watching the yoke change speeds/direction proved all went well. That is until I put the driveshafts on.
When the engine is not running I can go through all the gears, when running I can shift into third and fourth but no other gear.

sooty

clutch is still pulling/dragging rpm not releasing, if you put in 1st and then start it, and feel load, disc is not releasing, you need more throwout bearing movement.

Johnathan Long

And how can you get more movement out of it

Dean Snow

My truck quit shifting on me one day, I had messed with a lot, removed and reinstalled the trans.

Finally was fed up and took it to a shop because I needed it for that weekend. They had found the bushing had worn and fallen out of the pedal and whatnot and wore into the O on the end of the shaft that slides onto the pedal and it was worn completely out at the pedal and it wouldn’t shift no matter what I did.

They couldn’t get the bushings for the weekend so they took the cylinder rod, cut it, extended it to take up the play/slack. Then ordered new bushings and cylinder with rod for me to install after my weekend was over, was a frustrating time yet they found it in ten minutes whereas I spent two days pulling transmissions over and over.

oliver foster

I was going to mention worn, cracked or missing bushing on the end of the clutch slave rod...but Dean beat me too it.
I agree the other wear items on his list are also potential culprits.

edwinsmith

Mine was worn, no bushing and a groove cut into the shaft. Early on I tried replacing the bushing with a piece of copper tubing so the starter lockout would engage. After I replaced my G360 with a rebuilt the thing refused to shift. I suspected either the master/slave cylinders or both so I bought the replacements at O'reilly's. As soon as I did that the problem fixed itself for a while. Since I had the new cylinders I decided to replace them anyway along with the plastic line between them.

The new master came with a new plastic bushing but I still had the groove in the shaft on the pedal. I got out the JB-Weld and filled the groove and pushed the new plastic bushing on top of it then I let is set overnight. I finished putting it together the next day and I haven't had any trouble since.

I would have liked to take out the pedal assembly and use my wire welder to fill in the groove and file to fit but I couldn't figure out how to get the darned thing out easily.

Edwin