Originally Posted by mknittle

Another cure is the hydroboost swap. som of us have done it and used GM parts with great success.

Originally Posted by edwinsmith

I have a simple device which I got many years ago. It is a check valve in a short length of hose. One end goes over the bleed screw and the other end goes in a jar. I just slip it on. Open the bleeder and slowly pump the brakes until I get the air out. I keep the MC full between going wheel to wheel. It works fine for a one man operation. The check valve stops air from being sucked back into the system when you pump the pedal. Look around. If you can find one it may work for you.

Edwin

Originally Posted by NJTman

And unfortunately, you're not listening to us either.

There's a design flaw in the master that if you bench bleed them wrong by depressing or inserting the piston in too deep, you tear the seals in the master. The rear brakes need to be bled with a reservior capture system that allows you to "see" what is coming out of the cylinders bleeder screw, keeping vertical backpressure on the fluid while opening the bleeder. Vaccu-bleeders DO NOT WORK on these trucks.. Period. Been there done that.


Every one of us who have these trucks (almost) has had this particular problem. It's somewhere in it's design, although it may seem simplistic, that's what this comes down to.

There are even a few guys here who opted to forgo dealing with this issue, and swapped out the rear brakes for a disc conversion.

Not doubting your experience. These trucks are just different. Can't tell you why, but I can tell you that there are fixes to it, but they just aren't conventional.

You want help. I've given it to you and told you where to find the answer. If not, that's okay too, because I too didn't believe it at first, until I spent hours struggling with these brakes until I figured out for myself.

I wish you the best.