j.fonder

just read this whole thread, great info on unknown timing of a pump. answered my question for sure.

1320Fastback

It might be a old thread but the trucks and pumps are older and still relevant to all of us.

Installing a VE pump is dead simple. As long as the injection pump gear doesn't move in relation to the Cam gear you can't really install it wrong. The little bit of adjustment we can do by advancing and retarding isn't enough to make it not run and setting the pump to the middle of the adjustment range is just about perfect.

A interesting question I have is with the pump removed and the timing cover ON can the injection pump gear skip a tooth? They are not straight cut gears so it would have to slide forward to become disengaged to then change it's position.

j.fonder

i had the same question/worry. so i jammed a couple of red shop rags in there hoping it would keep it from sliding forward enough to "disengage".

loudhornsrule

I got an old engine missing the IP. The gears and stamped letters are lined up. I have a good Ip. Nothing is set TDC , nothing is locked, or nothing is timed. Nothing fancy can I turn the shaft on the pump to match the keyway gear on the engine and install? Will it work? Or does it have the possibility of being 180 off?

bigragu

I have asked that question, and it was answered by HD Eric, that's there's no way that could happen. But, it still doesn't give me an answer, as to how I altered the timing when I removed my pump to replace my leaking tapper cover. Followed the FSM, followed the 3 Cummins videos on YouTube, and my marks all lined back up at the end of the install. Now, with the colder weather and the KSB on, the truck idles low. If I disconnect the harness to that solenoid, the idle raises. Also, with the harness connected, the sound of the engine exhibits slightly more clatter, my low end grunt is somewhat weaker, but my top end is out of this world more powerful. If I disconnect the harness, less clatter, and my low end grunt is back. I must add that I do have the M&H timing spacer on, but before the pump removal the function of the KSB worked properly, and I had all the power I needed at both low and top end.
Most who have assisted me in this problem suggested I retard the timing, while some suggested I bump the timing about 1/4". The folks that suggested to retard the timing feel that during my reinstall of the pump I must have overly advanced it. But how? Pump gear supposedly won't skip a tooth, and my timing marks all lined up. Stumped on this one.

j.fonder

Just line up the keyway and go! I've done it this way a couple times now. Just make sure you get that keyway in there properly, I've been through that PITA

loudhornsrule

I had a pump rebuilt a couple years ago. When I removed it the engine WAS Not TDC. When I got the pump back from the shop it was locked. I unlocked it, rotated the shaft to match the gear on the engine, and installed. It Worked. Was I just lucky or will that work everytime? Can it be out 180 ?

edwinsmith

When you got the pump it was locked at TDC for #1. The way to install it is to rotate the engine until it is at TDC #1 and then put the pump in and rotate it slightly to take up the gearlash then tighten the nuts. There is a video floating around that shows the procedure.

No. By matching the keyway you can't get the timing off 180 but it won't be correct timing. You could be advanced or retarded some. The way to set the timing now is complex and requires a dial gauge.