bigredbrick

'90 parts donor

I just bought this parts rig to be the running gear donor for my '77 Scout Traveler. I got to thinking and now I want to transfer all of the '93 "brick" to the '90 frame, assuming it's not bent. The '93 frame is so rusty that there's got to be barnacles hiding on it somewhere. I also want a shorter wheelbase. Regular cab wheelbase is 131" and a club/short wheelbase is 133". Options seem to be; lengthen the frame, move the rear spring hangers and cross members back 2", or section an 8 foot bed to work with the combo. I don't want to cut the frame. I'm wondering what problems I will have installing the Kelderman air ride, that I have been dragging around for years, if I move the suspension back 2". Sectioning the bed is probably a serious PITA.
I haven't found much in the way of detailed info on this modification.

BHD

I don't think there is any easy way to do what you want to do and be 100% reliable. I have seen a few short bed CC CTD trucks and all of them have a sectioned long bed CC frame. Is your frame rotted completely through or just lots of scale? If its the latter, and since you are willing to pull your truck apart to the point of swapping frames, bodies, fuel lines, moving the fuel tank, brake lines, etc., I would have your frame sandblasted and sectioned. Keep in mind that the CC frame and the non I/C frame are different heights. I think no matter what direction you take, this will be an epic project. Just my 2 cents.

bigredbrick

Tons of scale. IDK how to determine how much strength the frame has lost. Also, all brake hardlines and trans cooler lines are sketchy. Drums need to be replaced. If I try to use the long club frame there's trying to get all the rust between rails and cross members. It's a mess. Major work either way. I'm planning on hauling a cabover camper on the truck and don't want a failure. The '90 is pretty clean as far as rust goes. The shell came off a different truck, so that's not a good indicator.

patdaly

You know, call me crazy, but if I had a Kelderman laying around, I would be seriously tempted to have a custom made set of rear springs 2" longer in the front and leave everything alone on the frame except at the back where the Kelderman would be.

Custom springs aren't that expensive in the overall scope of this swap.

bigredbrick

Hmmm, custom springs might do it. I have seen frames for sale on CL, but not very often. I would trust my figuring, cutting and tacking but not important structural welding.

oliver foster

Choices that seem worth looking at to me:
1: Custom springs, like Pat mentioned.
2: Zero rate "springs" which are basically a 1 inch leaf spring / block that allows to to relocate the center pin in the springs to move the axle 1/2 or 1 1/2 inches front or back, or keep it in the same place.
3: Use a set of new hangers / shackle flip from Jungle over at RCC, along with some new springs [maybe longer Chevy springs] to make a softer ride and re-locate the axle at the same time. He has a ton of parts to modify our 1st Gens. I have never used them but I have seen them installed on several trucks and they look well build and beefy.
4: Have a body shop section the bed.

oliver foster

Keep in mind the frame of a regular cab ramps up behind the cab sooner than it does on an extra cab. So plan on notching the floor of the ex-cab or a body lift as a real possibility on this project if using a stock RCLB frame. I know that is necessary when putting a crew cab on and Ex cab frame.

mknittle

There was a guy on here (lockguesser) a couple years ago that did a similar swap. IIRC the cab fit without being modified.

oliver foster

He did do a similar swap. I remember he sectioned the bed, but I can't remember if he had cab issues with the frame. His truck came out great when done. He then used it to tow a boat up to Alaska with his dad after he was done.
Like I said I know it is an issues when putting crew cabs on ex cab frames.

NJTman

To me ?

The LEAST amount of work would be to shorten the bed. This allows everything else to remain pretty much stock, no ?

A grinder, a couple rolls of masking tape for making your cut lines, and a mig welder, and you're done. There IS a thread here of the fella that did it, and it came out really sweet....

saggonwaggon91

Instead of using a stock style bed, why not build a custom flatbed with side boxes to slide your camper in?

mknittle

I had the same thought as you and lockgusser told me the rear floor of the cab was higher so it would work.
I remember I liked what he did. I looked for the thread but couldn't find it.

mknittle

BINGO!!!

https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...-beast-319291/
Thanks Oliver the word Alaska worked.

bigredbrick

The ramp up happens in the same place on club and reg frames. Doing some frame height measuring I found that the reg cab frame is 6+" under the cab and bed. The club is 7+" under the cab and increases to 8+". I"m assuming this is due to the longer wheelbase? Maybe box the midsection of the reg cab frame? I have plenty of 1/4" plate steel. I'm also thinking that I might want a little longer wheelbase for a 9' cabover camper? Does a couple inches make any difference? I'm not 100% on 133" for a club/short.
In Commiefornia a flat bed changes the classification of the truck for which the guberment takes more money.
Thanks for the links.