bobg3723

My 1991 D250 owner's manual that I still have states that my 3 speed automatic with a 3.07 rear diff ratio can tow with a GCWR of 12k lbs. Assuming 240 lbs of diesel in the tank, 3 passengers adding up to 600 lbs, 100 lbs of tow hitch and a 300 lb topper, and with the weight of a stock 2WD Standard Cab 8 foot bed D250 how much of a trailer's weight can I tow in the flat midwest?

I just lack the info on how much a stock 2WD Standard Cab D250 weighs to know if I've exceeded my GCWR with the weight of 7k on my rear bumper.

flyboy129

Probably around 5500# should be your truck weight, give or take. My 93 d250 club cab weighed in just a tad more with a 1/4 tank of fuel. So, 5500ish, plus 1000, plus 7000 nets you around 13,500. While you are overloaded, and if found at fault in an accident, this would come into play, most I know tow north of the ratings. Most will also tell you to take your time, allow more room between you and the car ahead, and don't make any sudden, crazy moves with the truck. I've towed more than that with my gasser W350 over 10% grades. I didn't win any land speed awards, but I made it home just fine. I drove cautiously, and much slower than traffic. Speed limit was 65, and I ran 50-55 tops. Was I illegal as far as gcvwr? Technically, yes, but passed by and was passed by many patrol cars who didn't give me a second thought.

bobg3723

I drove it 400 miles yesterday without the SXS and so the trailer weighed in around 5800 or so. The engine temperature gauge was right on the 2/3 mark during the entire time at around 60-65 MPH and and only dropped below that mark when doing 50 mph. When I'm driving without the trailer, the pointer stays planted at the 1/2 way mark. Are those engine temp indications within the normal range at the time?

I probably should plan on installing a tranny temp gauge.

NJTman

It's essential to have a trans temp gauge.....

My dodge runs the same engine temp all the time, unless I have my snow plow in front of the radiator, traveling from job to job.Just did a 1200 mile trip, and it stayed planted right to the left side of the middle two marks in the gauge.

MY trans temperatures remained in the 130* F range the whole time, which assured me my trans wasn't overheating at all..

EXH Temp, Fuel pressure and BOOST are my 3 add on gauges which I now can't live without.

flyboy129

Agreed. Also want to point out that these factory gauges have been known to not be accurate. However, the fact that the temps show a difference between loaded and unloaded should be noted. My gasser does run differing temps (aftermarket gauge) depending on driving styles, but never climbs past 190* on the gauge. (195 tstat) Most times just driving around, I'm running about 160-170. Highway speeds are 180ish. If it goes higher, I check coolant level (gotta replace that timing cover gasket ).

bobg3723

Thanks for all the tips, guys. I will get a transmission gauge for sure. I plan on keeping the speeds at 60 MPH and below when towing the toy hauler loaded. As an added precaution, would each of the following be COST EFFECTIVE at prolonging my engine and transmission's life:

1. ASAP, install both an aftermarket engine and transmission cooler.
2. ASAP install and Exhaust Temperature Gauge w/ probe before the turbocharger.
3. At the next transmission overhaul, upgrade to a lock-up torque converter?

I'm not ready to upgrade to another truck nor am I capable of retrofitting a more towing capable automatic transmission. I'm only taking the toyhauler on weekends and maybe over the Rockies once a year.

I'd like to hear your experiences.

thrashingcows

The factory transmission coolers are fine from the factory, and do a good job of keeping things cool....but an auxiliary one mounted under the bed with a temp controlled electric fan would not be a bad thing.

An EGT gauge is a darn good thing to have, keeping it from building up too much heat can keep your motor from cooking. I have a Power Stroke intercooler and never see much more then 900*deg. If the EGT's climb up to 1100-1200*Deg then slow down, and drop a gear....never pull any hills in overdrive!

You have to swap a lot more then a converter to get lock-up. Basically you would need to purchase and install and 47RH tranny from a 94/95 2nd Gen cummins truck. Or if you look through the "Sticky" there is a thread there about converting your 46RH into a 47RH. But a good "tighter" aftermarket torque converter would be a good upgrade for sure. The factory converter slips a lot and that slippage generates a lot of heat!

j_martin

I get a lot of cool, and also decent engine braking with a Goerend low stall converter. What I pay is low gear starting torque. A turn or 2 on the fuel screw makes up for most of that. I pull about 10,000 lbs of recreation double. I also have the frame mounted fan cooled transmission cooler and a Mishimoto high performance radiator.

feets

He has a 727, not a 518. No overdrive.


As long as you watch your trans temp and EGT there is no reason you can't tow in OD. I do it all the time. Granted, it's fairly flat in north Texas but I've towed through 37 states.

The original transmission lasted 272,000 miles with nothing more than typical maintenance. OD started slipping so I tore it down. The bands, clutches, and steels were fine. It turns out the seals were getting hard and bypassing fluid.

bobg3723

How many blade does your Goerend have? 10, 15, or 17 blade?

BHD

That sounds about how hot my '90 ran before I swapped the I/C radiator in. With the auto and the small radiator, the clutch fan would kick in on hot days. That hasn't happened since I ditched the non-I/C set up.

bobg3723

I/C radiator? I'm not familiar with that terminology.

oliver foster

inter-coooled = IC
The '89-'91.0 and the '91.5-'93 Cummins truck came with different radiators.
The later I/Ced radiator is much bigger.

bobg3723

So there are aftermarket radiators with integral intercoolers for the turbocharger that are a direct replacement for the earlier '91, like mine?

wisconative

I'd suggest a Derale Trans pan. It gives you more capicity for fluid and it has a hole for a guage. I towed a 7000 lb trailer and truck at a little over 12000 total weight. 3000 mies. Trans temp never got above 180. The pan has cooling fins.
Also, an EGT is a must have imo (I learned about it here). It gives you temps of exhaust so you don't melt your pistons and it will tell you to ease up on throttle b/4 overheating. It tells you what your coolant temps will be in the next minute or so, b/4 the facotry coolant gauge starts to move. It helped me to pull over, let engine run to cool down prior to meltdown. At about 800 degrees, engine wouldn't get hot. But pulling up a hill and pushing 1100 degrees, it might get the coolant hot in a hurry.
EGT and Trans Temp are must have for towing imo.