Has anyone successfully fixed vent duct leak
#1
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Thread Starter
Has anyone successfully fixed vent duct leak
i need to fix this bad, my truck has almost no rust but my vent leaks every time it rains, i do not want my floor to be rusty.
I am going to fix mine ony way or another, without glueing it shut, i still want it to work.
Dar
I am going to fix mine ony way or another, without glueing it shut, i still want it to work.
Dar
#2
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Do you have carpeting ?
If not, then you might just have to.
There is a slit in the cowl that can allow water to enter inside very quickly. Once I closed this up when I did my cowl cracks, all water entering the cab from there ended. My rear cargo light was the only entry point until just recently...
Secondly, my truck still gets water in it, but it's from my doors / speaker holes or my feet. I have no carpet, but a couple of thick rubber mats I can pull out if this happens. That "padding" on the underside of the original carpet is horrific for retaining moisture. You'll never see that stuff in my truck ever again..
In all honesty, that slit, closed up or not is not likely the main reason you're getting water inside. Those door perimeter seals go bad and they allow water to enter. My cab has had plenty of water inside it over the years, and most, if not all of it comes through the speakers, as I've never been able to seal it completely from wicking through the speaker mount as the water runs down the inside of the doors during a rain storm.
#3
Registered User
For the vent only, ignoring the million other sources of water intrusion:
1. tried rtv silicone- still leaked
2. removed drip guard, just put kick panel in- serious draft.
3. used windshield butyl tape (3/8 I think) from 3m, in place of the oem foam gasket- that fixed it on my 88, 92 and 93. Tough to work with (must be warm) and won't ever come out, but its not leaking. Keep in mind I had to break all the heat staking that keeps the drip gaurd attached to the kick panel
1. tried rtv silicone- still leaked
2. removed drip guard, just put kick panel in- serious draft.
3. used windshield butyl tape (3/8 I think) from 3m, in place of the oem foam gasket- that fixed it on my 88, 92 and 93. Tough to work with (must be warm) and won't ever come out, but its not leaking. Keep in mind I had to break all the heat staking that keeps the drip gaurd attached to the kick panel
#4
Registered User
For the vent only, ignoring the million other sources of water intrusion:
1. tried rtv silicone- still leaked
2. removed drip guard, just put kick panel in- serious draft.
3. used windshield butyl tape (3/8 I think) from 3m, in place of the oem foam gasket- that fixed it on my 88, 92 and 93. Tough to work with (must be warm) and won't ever come out, but its not leaking. Keep in mind I had to break all the heat staking that keeps the drip gaurd attached to the kick panel
1. tried rtv silicone- still leaked
2. removed drip guard, just put kick panel in- serious draft.
3. used windshield butyl tape (3/8 I think) from 3m, in place of the oem foam gasket- that fixed it on my 88, 92 and 93. Tough to work with (must be warm) and won't ever come out, but its not leaking. Keep in mind I had to break all the heat staking that keeps the drip gaurd attached to the kick panel
#5
Don't mean to hack in farmboy, but also check by that louvered grill, color black, on the passenger side next to kick panel. I want to say that's the return air for the heating and cooling. Just started on mine. When it pours, I see drips trickling down onto that. Coming from somewhere behind the dash. Also, noticed at the utmost corner on the drivers side, behind the seat and underneath the seat belt spool, moist for me. Wonder where that's coming from, too. Not in a position to be twisting around looking for it right now
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#8
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Maybe your doors are leaking.
It will cost you a dollar to check your door seals for leaks.
Close a new dollar bill in your door seal and try and slide it around your door, you should not be able to pull the dollar bill out of the seal anywhere around the perimeter of the door.
If the seals have collapsed you can try and pull some backer rod through them.
My door seals are tight all of the way around them.
Has anyone ever tried to seal the cowl area using a product like Rhino or Linex or some other thick flexible brush on membrane, I would think this would seal any leaks and dampen any squeaks.
Jim
It will cost you a dollar to check your door seals for leaks.
Close a new dollar bill in your door seal and try and slide it around your door, you should not be able to pull the dollar bill out of the seal anywhere around the perimeter of the door.
If the seals have collapsed you can try and pull some backer rod through them.
My door seals are tight all of the way around them.
Has anyone ever tried to seal the cowl area using a product like Rhino or Linex or some other thick flexible brush on membrane, I would think this would seal any leaks and dampen any squeaks.
Jim
#9
Planning on doing this with durabak on my crew along with 3m 5200 for sealant where the dried up seam sealer has failed inside the cowl.
#10
Registered User
I don't think I would line-x inside the crawl, rust will get in-between it and removing that stuff would be impossible.
Take a hose, remove the vent and see where the water goes.
Take a hose, remove the vent and see where the water goes.
#11
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I've replaced them a couple times, yet water still bypasses and goes inside the door housing. The wipers are not hermetically sealed, and water will find it's way in. I finally stopped the water entering the speaker, but only after several attempts at covering the speaker from inside the door.
#12
Registered User
I've replaced them a couple times, yet water still bypasses and goes inside the door housing. The wipers are not hermetically sealed, and water will find it's way in. I finally stopped the water entering the speaker, but only after several attempts at covering the speaker from inside the door.
Between the waist seals diverting most of it, and the other compensations, it shouldn't be an issue.
#13
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on my old Chevy the drain would plug up. I used a 1/16" welding rod to un plug it.
#14
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Yes there is, but when you upgrade your speakers to much larger deeper and bigger magnet speakers those drop covers fall way short of the target. They ultimately become a conduit for waste entry. I eventually stopped it with some peel and stick window and door wrap.
#15
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Thread Starter
Thanks guys, door for sure not leaking, my truck is supprisingly tight, all but the little trickle of water comming out from under the kick pannel.
i will pull her in the barn and build a good fire and go to work.
i will pull her in the barn and build a good fire and go to work.