92smokin blacky

Well I changed my fuel filter the other day and decided to pull my fuel heater off too to check it and make sure the O-ring is still good. Well the O-ring was stuck to the head but it didn't look broken or cracked, it just felt hard and old. My fuel heater had quite a bit of crap in it so i blew it out with air and put it all back on and tightened up tight along witht the filter, but I think now the O-ring is leaking because it is dripping fuel while running and it looks wet with fuel around there and the filter, it runs fine, but I don't like the idea of leaking expensive fuel constantly. So I was wondering what the Cummins part # is for it or if i can get it at a dodge dealer? I've heard of people buying a napa oil filter and taking the O-ring from it and using it? what would be the best way to go?

Montana2x2

Cummins # 3913695

bgilbert

FWIW, if you wanted to delete it, the fuel filter stud for use without fuel heater is Cummins 3925954. Fuel heater square o-ring Mopar number is 4429695 or Cummins 3913695.

92smokin blacky

I thought about gettin rid of the fuel heater but wasn't sure if they made a delete or not. It seems like a restriction that just gets full of junk if you ask me, not even sure if mine works. Thanks for the help

cseby

go to the case international tractor dealer for a heater delete stud. # j925954 adapter.$10.46 back in february.or the napa filter you want for the gasket is #1036.a little thicker than original,but it works.

ofcmarc

Just out of curiosity, What's the chance that the filter seal is the same size as the heater seal?....... Or at least close enough to work in a pinch.......

May have to check that out next time I change a filter and it isn't -45* when I do it.

NE frmhnd

I didn't really look at the filter gasket, but I think it may be a little too small. The gasket for the heater is about the outer diameter of the filter.

wheelo90

mine leaks too! How do you get the heater off?

92smokin blacky

I looked at both O-rings wondering the same thing if I could just use the O-ring off my old filter for the heater O-ring. But they are a different size. I think the Fuel heater O-ring is actuallly smaller, but I can't really remember cuz I was in a hurry cuz it was cold. But I know they are a different size.

I'm thinkin I'll check around for the heater delete stud, then I won't even need a fuel heater O-ring right? just the filter one will work.

Taking the heater off is pretty much the same as taking the filter off, just unscrew it. At first I was turning the fuel heater but the plug hit the head and I thought what the heck? how do you get these off, then I figured out that the whole stud unscrews so just unscrew the whole stud instead of the heater and then it will just slide off.

NE frmhnd

There are a couple notches in the bottom of the stud to engage with a wrench of some sort. I used a flat washer that I ground down to be thin enough to slide into the notches and grabbed it with a set of vice grips. Turn it the same way you did the filter. Driver's side toward the front.

The NAPA 1036 oil filter gasket is about perfect. A little thick but the diameter is right, which is the big thing. It fits a GM product, which I don't know. I should have asked when I got mine, if I had you could get any brand filter. My gasket had stuck to the head, and had to be popped off with a screwdriver.

rubberduck

i crossreferenced this w/ a friend at carquest ( c.q. # 85036) it lists gmc 1980-2005 and a marine application.

PapeCAT

The best way to tighten that filter stud IMO is to use the double nut method. Use two nuts up on the threads and lock them together viola now you have a wrenching surface. You may need to grind the nuts down a tad to clear both.

cseby

make a little stud wrench.

92smokin blacky

Got mine from my local case dealer and the O-ring was $4.77 with tax. Got it in and it sealed right up. The old O-ring was hard and old and if you bent it you could see small cracks in it. He said the Case heater delete stud was about $10 and it would be about twice that from cummins and its pretty much the same part number minus the first letter.

HighPlainsDrftr

Sorry to revive this, but I have done this on two different 1st gens now. I have bought the napa oil filter for the o ring, which is thicker, and now both trucks take a couple of seconds of cranking to get them started. I purged the air from both of them with the lift pump before starting them. The first one I did was months ago, and still does it. No longer leaks or anything, just takes a couple of seconds to fire up every time. I thought maybe it was sucking air somewhere but then I did it to my 1st gen and now it is doing the same thing. Would the gasket being simply thicker on the fuel heater be causing this issue?