PJ 3

I actually thought of that but my concern was that there seems to be more movement on this new spring design and I was nervous about just having a little over an inch of free play so I got it rebuilt to better specs.

I upgraded the spline shaft and slip yoke. It is much larger in design compared to the stock drive shaft that was on there. I used the original shaft but replaced the cv joints and ball assembly. The new spline shaft and slip yoke welded onto the existing shaft has a travel distance of 3 inches now.
Here is a pic of the completed shaft.........

Here is a closer shot of the new end welded up. The slip yoke was complimented with a rubber boot and sealed with clamps, making it maintenance free. The rubber boot and slip joint design is similar to the TJ jeep style except quite larger. As you can see the diameter of the slip yoke and back end of the original shaft are the same size now !
A spicer conversion joint was installed to match up with my dana 60.

Ideally , there should be 3 degrees on the shaft angle. I don't know what the stock angle was with the sagged front springs but I now sit at 18 degrees. Turning the shaft by hand didn't create any binding issues. I locked the hubs and run the front end after the install today and there doesn't seem to be any issues. Works great.

Here is a pic of the final install. This upgrade is maintenance free, never needing grease to the slip joint, cv's only and much stronger.

dieselJon

From what I read on Pirate4x4, you need the transfer case yoke and the pinion yoke within 3* of each other, the shaft angle is a different. Meaning, if the transfer case has 21*, the pinion yoke needs between 18-24*... Or is it 20-22*? Something like that.

And I may have all of that mixed up.

1990

Good Post. Nice truck! Looks like i will be getting a set of these springs this summer!

PJ 3

Naaaaaa ...... I'm mixed up

My transfer case flange and my pinion yoke are both at 90 degrees. There is no variation in the two. What I was meaning by the 3 degree shaft angle was the 3 degree angle reflected onto the joint itself. They claim that when a joint runs past the 3 degree mark you start to loose service life. Since my driveshaft is at 18 degrees it reflects the angle on the joint, therefore the life span of my conversion joint is cut back . I should be fine though because it is my front shaft and it's not like it spins all the time. But I think you may be right on the 3 degree variation between the flange and yoke.

enafzige

Are you saying that the shop eliminated the CV ball assembly, and you're just running 2 u-joints instead?

How much did that modification cost? I wish we had a good driveshaft shop in Knoxville.

--Eric

PJ 3

No the ball assembly is still there. There was a new one installed though plus the two joints. I still have to grease this end. The other end with the boot assembly is maintenance free.

The guy that did it specializes in shafts......that's his trade. He races in mud bogs and has been very active around here in the 4 x 4 industry. He really knows his stuff and does very good precision work. He is also a professional fabricator. He built a mud dragger that he runs from scratch.......tube bent frame and all. I think it's a big block with open headers in it. Pretty impressive stuff.........and a handy guy to have around.
As far as cost, the spicer parts were 200 bucks and he charged me 100 in labour.

Here is the parts list if you or anyone has interest in doing this modification. All parts are spicer numbers.........

1 401-1 Sleeve
1 2-9302 CV Ball Assembly
1 5-788 X U joint ( mopar conversion )
2 2-3011 U joints
1 2-40-2661 Shaft
1 211916 X Boot Kit
1 2-3-8021 KX Slip Yoke

longshotranch

How long have you had that K-mart creeper? Have'nt seen one of those in a long time

PJ 3

Bought in 72.........yup she's an oldie. Actually the K mart was one of the first stores around these parts. It was quite the store in it's hay-day. I went in there one time and opened the cage door to the Budgie Birds, letting about 30 out in the store flying about ! All the clerks were runnin around the store with fishing nets trying to catch them.....lol....ya I was mischievious in my younger days..... then again....

sevnt300

I don't post or reply to much but I wanted to add my experience with the same springs that PJ 3 installed. I purchased a set of these springs about a month ago. There are a few things that you need to know before ordering these. First off these springs are about 3/4" longer in the rear than the stock ones. That being said, the length and the thickness of the new spring makes the springs ride on the frame when using the stock shackle. After informing them of this they sent me a new set of shackles that are about an inch longer than the stock ones and they said that they will include the shackles as part of the spring purchase from now on. I don't mind being involved in a little R&D and it solved the clearance issue. Hear is the part you need to know……I ordered springs with a 2" lift on them so the truck would sit even, which it did….with the stock shackles. With the new shackles it sat almost 2" higher than with the stock ones and about a 1/4 turn on my steering wheel. I called them about this, they told me to take the spacer from the bottom of the spring and move it to the top (which I did). Well….. it's still pointing up in the front, it only dropped it about a 1/2 inch. They told me to drive it for a week and see if it settled……..it didn't……..called them again, they said it was not possible for it to raise that much, I explained the spring length, height measurement and the steering geometry facts to back up my complaint, I am 6'4", the difference between getting in the truck was being able to slide in with the stock shackle and almost tearing my levi's with the new one they supplied. They suggested that I drive it roughly off road as much as possible for about 6 weeks to see if it settles. I am willing to be proven wrong and will give it the full 6 weeks that they suggested.

If you order these springs, know that whatever lift you ask for will be increased by 1 1/2 - 2" by the combination of the shackles and spring length. As some of you have noticed, on PJ 3's truck, the 2" lift is actually closer to a 3" or 4" lift, due to the spring length and longer shackle. I am not badmouthing these springs or the company, the springs ride superbly for 2500 lb springs, its not a Imperial by any means but they do have nice action to them and the company has tried to do what they think is right to resolve the height issues. I am just letting everyone know my experience and preparing anyone who wants a set of these springs to know what to expect so you don't have to spend the time and effort disassembling and reassembling your front suspension like I have had to do.

Good Luck

bobva

Why would you want to turn that beauty into a off road thrasher ?

As far as I know crossover steering is NOT D.O.T. approved. Offroad use only.

simplysmn

Every kit I have ever bought never said anything about offroad only now Hydro steering is but I don't believe crossover is

PJ 3

I measured under the front bumper to the ground before the mod and I was exactly 21 inches. After the install I now sit at 24 1/8 so my total gain to the front end was 3 1/8 inches. I was told that the springs would lift my front end 2 inches above stock which I assume is pretty close because my old springs that I tore out were close to an inch or a little more sagged. All I know is that when I bought my truck new the springs were never bent the opposite way on my truck and I never did take any measurements when it was new off the lot so where the truck sat stock new of the lot.......I don't know. But the inch or a little more seems right. I got longer shackles shipped with my kit also but I would have never installed the old originals as they were bent and not as strong as the new ones supplied so that was a bonus. The OEM springs were hitting the frame with the old shackles on. My ride has improved drastically since the change and my steering has seemed to improve.

In no way will my truck be an off road thrasher, it was at one time in it's life but is in it's retirement phase now.
I have not jumped the gun on doing this yet and have been reading lots. Some say yes, some say no. All I am trying to do is improve the over all steering on the truck. Wanting a stronger feel to my steering, better alignment, and no play is a bonus but I may never do it.....maybe I will.
It's like the springs I put in......you just don't know till you try. Anyway, I am enjoying my new ride and am pleased with the results. I am no longer all over the road like before and my front end doesn't feel like it's gonna break right off when I hit a hole in the road. The cross over may go on the back burner !

enafzige

There's no downside to crossover steering other than the time and money to do so...and there's alot of benefits.

bobva

Google this --- (is crossover steering dot approved).

simplysmn

I think the only thing that is not DOT is the Heim joint's when they use them for street I would Do Crossover before going to any other set/up the factory stuff is junk sorry