Bouncy dually fix - or how to center your dually wheels
#46
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Location: Glenville, PA
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Dave, I had a question if I were to step up to running 19.5 steel wheels on my truck would you recommend using the factory style flanged lug nuts or the conical lug nuts? That is of course after the center hub hole in the wheel(the 19.5) is machined to the larger diameter measurment required to mount on to the Dodge rear axle. These would be the 19.5 Chevy/GM 8-lug wheels that they ran on the stepvans when you didn't get the 10-lug setup. The other thing to factor about the wheels is that they are not coined like the factory 16" Dodge wheels are where one lug hole is concave and next lug hole is convex. If I did a Dana 80 swap in the rear to where I would have the 9/16" sized studs I'd probably benefit to change the studs in the front to 9/16" also to better mount the 19.5 wheels. Thanks.
Sal
Sal
#48
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Dave, thanks for your reply and that does make the best sense to me. I'm sure GM did run a flanged style lug nut on some dual wheel application, just don't know exactly what models.
#54
Piggpenn- I, too, got tired of $6/hr yeah-hoos not doing stuff right. Now that I am married to the service advisor at a shop with a tire machine, I no longer have that problem. Just go in after hours, and do my stuff.
There is absolutley NO point in balancing tires if the mud and sand isnt cleaned off the wheels. Mom had a local shop do that on her truck, and wanted to charge her $14 each for balancing. I told them to shove off, that it shouldnt have taken 3 hours to mount and balance 6 tires, esp if they werent going to clean the wheels. After a few more choice words, I was asked to not return. I told the manager he didnt have to worry.
I tightened my lug nuts to 300ft-lbs or so (pulling with one hand on a 4' cheater pipe on a 1/2" breaker bar), and never had an issue with thread stretch or stripping. Break them loose, and they come off by hand the rest of the way. If one got to the point it didnt thread off easily, it got replaced.
There is absolutley NO point in balancing tires if the mud and sand isnt cleaned off the wheels. Mom had a local shop do that on her truck, and wanted to charge her $14 each for balancing. I told them to shove off, that it shouldnt have taken 3 hours to mount and balance 6 tires, esp if they werent going to clean the wheels. After a few more choice words, I was asked to not return. I told the manager he didnt have to worry.
I tightened my lug nuts to 300ft-lbs or so (pulling with one hand on a 4' cheater pipe on a 1/2" breaker bar), and never had an issue with thread stretch or stripping. Break them loose, and they come off by hand the rest of the way. If one got to the point it didnt thread off easily, it got replaced.
#55
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Is there somewhere to get a tire iron or am I going to need to buy some new tools?
I don't have a spare, but I have an '85 chassis with a full set of wheels. I found a 1 1/8" socket, 1/2" extension, and my 2.5 foot breaker bar and stood on it trying to loosen one of the rear lugs on my truck and felt like I was going to break it. I didn't even bother trying to get a wheel off the spare chassis since it's a bit rustier.
NAPA said they had a tire iron with 1-1/8" for $90 and I didn't even know the front lugs were a DIFFERENT SIZE, not that I was going to buy that anyway.
I don't have a spare, but I have an '85 chassis with a full set of wheels. I found a 1 1/8" socket, 1/2" extension, and my 2.5 foot breaker bar and stood on it trying to loosen one of the rear lugs on my truck and felt like I was going to break it. I didn't even bother trying to get a wheel off the spare chassis since it's a bit rustier.
NAPA said they had a tire iron with 1-1/8" for $90 and I didn't even know the front lugs were a DIFFERENT SIZE, not that I was going to buy that anyway.
#56
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#58
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If you read the whole thread, we hashed that over pretty thoroughly and came to the conclusion that the nuts on the front of my truck are NOT factory. The original nuts are the same front and rear.