mknittle

on the block behind the fuel pump.

j.fonder

It's a long narrow plate behind the injection pump. It runs the length of the block under the intake shelf. Replacing with a billet cover is a bit overkill. also, the fluidampr is a great upgrade but at $500 I'd only recommend it for manual trucks and manual trucks running over 2500rpm regularly. It's not really necessary in an auto.

thrashingcows

If I had to pick one Mod I did that turned out to be a waste of time would be electric fans. It was an experiment so I was aware that it may or may not have gone well. I thought that running electric fans in the Fall and winter would help with warm up, and perhaps gain me a little in MPG's. I found the warm up gains moderate, and no decernable increase in mpg's. Put the stock fan and shroud back on, with a piece of cardboard in front of rad, and end up with same performance.

thrashingcows

Good upgrades, hydroboost has to be one of the top ones, and the addition of a PS fluid cooler. Then 366 spring and rotate stock pin to deep side and 1 full turn in on the fuel screw. PS intercooler, tach, boost and EGT gauges. Headlight relays, and LED dash lights.

Ol-dodge 1992

Hey Tcow... did you get your daytime running lights to work with the headlight relay upgrade? I found the thread that Jim lane put up asking for a Canadian guinea pig to try out some wiring ... bookmarked it but haven't had time to read the thread

Alec

Hey SD,

I would really recommend filling out your signature so that we can refer to what year truck you have with what options, modifications, etc. when we respond to your posts. Showing your location can also be useful so we can make an educated guess about what operating conditions, fuel blends, etc. your truck is experiencing.

The first thing I would recommend doing beyond making the truck roadworthy is installing manifold pressure ("boost"), exhaust gas temperature (EGT or "pyro"), and fuel pressure gauges. The first two are really mandatory if you want to tune your engine, very helpful in keeping from damaging a modified engine, and also very helpful in diagnosing some common engine problems/failures. Not so many folks run a fuel pressure gauge, but it can be used to identify a number of common causes of problems/failures, and is a great way to know when to change your fuel filter.

After gauges: Upgrade the turbo. This is a little tricky, as the "ultimate" turbo depends on how you want the truck to perform. But an He351, or a stock 2nd gen Hx35 are light years better than the stock h1 and oversized exhaust housing, and either would be a better place to start.

Next I would convert to hydroboost brakes.

Those are my opinions for priorities. After that, I more or less agree with the other posts in this thread. And there is a large amount of good information here among the forum members and archived posts!

Alec

thrashingcows

I tried Jim's suggestions, but it did not work as planned. So I disconnected the DRL module and adjusted the wiring at the relays to just work like the US made trucks. Been working great that way now for a couple years.

Ol-dodge 1992

Thank you sir... read through the thread last night looks like something I can tackle pretty soon

mknittle

The hella e-code headlights and relays are on my to do list. I am getting tired of getting out and striking a match to see if the old seal beams are on.

thrub

I agree with Tcows that electric fans wasn't worth it. I had them on my 93 a while back and they didn't work as I had hoped. LED headlights are another that I'm not sure I would do again. They work awesome and I really like them but for the price I paid I think next time I'd try Jim's relays first.

j.fonder

My little 12v truck doesn't do anything more than highway and commuter driving but I have an electric fan on it that hardly ever runs. Will kick on if sitting in 90* weather rush hour traffic but cools motor down 15* very quickly. I did it due to space limitations, I don't think I'd swap to one in my 1st gen.

Thrub, when you say didn't work as you had hoped? What do you mean by that? What fan were you running? Just curious, cheers

Hillbilly66

My opinion on mods to my 5 spd truck, in no specific order. Other than boost and egt gauge I think they should always be first.

366 spring,

Fuel pin. I settled with the pin from Hungry Diesel after trying both Denny pins. It seems to offer a little more off the start than the Denny 1, but is about the same on top. The Denny 2 was great from bottom to top but smoked like a freight train.

Fluidampr is nice, Engine is much smoother at higher rpm while towing. (As others have said expensive)

Headlight relays. (Am going to look into the fore mentioned e code lights)

Turbo, the HE351cw is a great mod, I did a lot of searching before I went this route. One thing that is seldomly mentioned with this swap, is boost is higher while cruising. Say holding at 75 mph with stock turbo I was 3-5 psi but with the he351 same speed I hold 7-10 psi depending on wind.

With that said the power stroke intercooler is next mod on the list.

thrub

Just cruising around on a hot day it worked fine but pulling a loaded trailer my truck would run quite a bit hotter than I would have liked. It was a flexalite fan. I also had it wired up with one of those cheap rad temperature probes. I went with an electric fan because when I put the hydraulic pump on my truck for the deck I lost the fan clutch so the fan runs continuously. I thought that it might run too cool in the winter.

j.fonder

i see, was curious how this fan i've got would cool my 93 if towing in summer heat. I have a 2 speed fan out of a 90s V8 thunderbird, it's big, moves a lot of air, but still about half that of a clutch fan. have it wired through a 2 speed volvo fan relay with a 205on/190off temp probe.

i was hoping the truck would run hotter than it does with no fan running(electric), but it won't hardly break 180 on the highway in the dead heat of summer.

bigragu

Hillbilly, when you get ready to do that powerstoke IC mod, let me know, as I have an isometric sketched drawing of the IC that shows all dimensions. It helped me in planning the install, along with fabricating all custom brackets, type of hardware needed, etc., BEFORE I started to tear things out. That will maybe assist you in a no hack job, and make it basically a bolt on deal.
Also, do plan on securing the IC with isolation/anti vibration bushings.