best twins for my setup
#1
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Thread Starter
best twins for my setup
He all. I'm sure I'm kicking a dead cat here but I figured why not. I have a93 CTD. mods include; beans diesel performance fuel sump, 1/2" lines all the way to the pump, Carter 2nd Gen high pressure piston lift pump run through Aeromotive diesel grade fuel pressure regulator, ve pump built for performance by Diesel Auto Power (Badger Diesel), 374 spring, DennyT AFC delete, non intercooled delivery valves, jumped a tooth and at stock marks, DAP 5x16 SAC i jectors, HX35, 4 inch downpipe, 5" straight pipe, NV4500 with South Bend dual disc 3600. Future plans include DAP 3 piece manifold, ARP studs, 60# springs, water/method and turbo upgrade. I'm wanting to upgrade turbo now along with manifold (mines cracked). I'm looking into twins but read so many different things and want to get the best setup for my truck. I use my truck for everything, grocery getter, tow truck and of course, getting on it comes with the territory. I'm curious on input from you more seasoned vets. HX35/S464? Or single 63/68/14? S357/S475? Any help would be greatly appreciated.
#2
Registered User
Maybe these?
#5
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#6
1st Generation Admin
Y'all wouldn't crap a fellas thread would you?
@ Vader93: You need to decide what you're going to do with the truck in a primary sense.
- You've got WAY too much fuel for the current turbo as things stand now. You need more air now.
- That AFC delete is doing nothing for you . . . period. It's way too easy to go too rich with fuel. That will result in poor turbo response.
- Unless you come up with a turbo (s) that's very quick in spooling, those non-ic DVs aren't helping as they only add a little more fuel in the very low engine RPM.
All the above is working against you in the sense of a working truck. You'll spend too much effort driving by the pyrometer.
A common well proven, and inexpensive twin set up is the HX35 over an HT3B. I've run this set up and I believe your current 5x16s are too much fuel. It'll easily exceed 1400*f with a sustained WOT.
W/M is not a 1st choice fix: a 50/50% mix of W/M will provide NO cooling effect. Backing off the meth to perhaps 90/10% W/M will give you a little cooling effect. But you have to keep the bottle full. Any power addition numbers will vary wildly pending you current fueling/charge-air set up.
I'm rambling now.
Building for big race-track performance, won't necessarily equate to a dead reliable work truck. Etc.
how does the saying go?
Powerful / Reliable / Economical . . . . .. you can only pick two.
@ Vader93: You need to decide what you're going to do with the truck in a primary sense.
- You've got WAY too much fuel for the current turbo as things stand now. You need more air now.
- That AFC delete is doing nothing for you . . . period. It's way too easy to go too rich with fuel. That will result in poor turbo response.
- Unless you come up with a turbo (s) that's very quick in spooling, those non-ic DVs aren't helping as they only add a little more fuel in the very low engine RPM.
All the above is working against you in the sense of a working truck. You'll spend too much effort driving by the pyrometer.
A common well proven, and inexpensive twin set up is the HX35 over an HT3B. I've run this set up and I believe your current 5x16s are too much fuel. It'll easily exceed 1400*f with a sustained WOT.
W/M is not a 1st choice fix: a 50/50% mix of W/M will provide NO cooling effect. Backing off the meth to perhaps 90/10% W/M will give you a little cooling effect. But you have to keep the bottle full. Any power addition numbers will vary wildly pending you current fueling/charge-air set up.
I'm rambling now.
Building for big race-track performance, won't necessarily equate to a dead reliable work truck. Etc.
how does the saying go?
Powerful / Reliable / Economical . . . . .. you can only pick two.
#7
Registered User
Thanks Dave.
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#8
Registered User
Thread Starter
So your saying I need to ditch the afc delete. Could you please explain why. Economy isn't my main issue. I'm more aimed at performance and towing. I don't drive the truck a whole lot but when I do I usually have a trailer in tow. I'm very interested in running compound turbos. I feel like the hx35 isn't supplying enough air on the bottom end and I would prefer not to use it in my setup. I'm looking heavily at running an S360 or S362 with an S472 or S475. I think the S475 would be a great top end turbo but I don't know which smaller turbo would be best for towing and around town driving. Smeding Diesel quoted me an S360 with a billet 7 blade upgrade, internally regulated with a 360° thrust bearing for $1000. The 362 with 11 blade billet wheel, internally regulated and 360° thrust bearing wasn't much more. I'm just curious which one would be best for me. Thank yall again for yalls input
#9
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Thread Starter
FYI the economy thing isn't my main concern because my tdi jetty makes up for the dually. Little guy gets me 45mpg daily. Love that little car. If I had to pick 2 I'd choose power, reliability. If I could go back I would have gotten 5x14 or even 5x16 but I am aimed at making power and I just had the injectors rebuilt so I'm gonna stick with them and build my turbos around them
#10
Registered User
The delete gets rid of your ability to adjust your fuel to your air. You want that for towing.
I would slap a S471 under that HX35. No need to go bigger. IF anything, a S366 or S466 might be great combo.
I would slap a S471 under that HX35. No need to go bigger. IF anything, a S366 or S466 might be great combo.
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#14
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#15
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Thread Starter
I'm leaning toward an hx35/s464, hx35/s466 or k27/471. Any thoughts Which would be better. I might end up swapping the 5x16s for some 6x13s so maybe that be a better injector. But twins are my main goal right now. Thank yall