BC's Transmission Overhaul (updated as it occurs)
08-29-2007, 12:09 PM
#61
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08-29-2007, 01:15 PM
#63
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You have to get a different engine adapter, computer to control it and the toruqe converter costs twice as much. Probably would have cost him significantly more to switch to a lockup.. I believe you have to move the cross member back or modify the trans mount as well.
08-29-2007, 01:30 PM
#64
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Here Jake, read this:
https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...d.php?t=114702
Its alot easier than you think.
https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...d.php?t=114702
Its alot easier than you think.
08-29-2007, 03:16 PM
#65
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You mean an RE, he has an RH... H=hydraulically controlled, E=Electronically... You have to get a different engine adapter, computer to control it and the toruqe converter costs twice as much. Probably would have cost him another $2500-3000 to switch to a RE... I believe you have to move the cross member back and shift linkage needs to be custom as well.
08-29-2007, 05:17 PM
#66
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I am confused more often than not lately 
I misunderstood Glen at Transgo apparently- when he was asking for my trans make he told me what I said earlier (at least what I heard). I'll fix it.
I'm sticking with the cost being significantly more though- that's the way things always go with my luck. Suncoast non lockup converter is 683 lockup is 1295 (might as well get a good one!). Plus cost of adapter, starter, a transmission to rebuild, trans mount and all the unforseen things will bring it up pretty quick in my opinion. If you got a trans and all that other stuff for $200, more power to you!
I have a 47RE (out of a 99 CTD) but it needs a lot of work. It was free though so I figured why not, just takes up space!
I'll just stop posting, all I seem to do is upset you guys.
I still think a 46RH/RE = 518 and a 47RH/RE = 618 just one has a electric governor and the other hydraulic... I posted my first post because this seemed confusing:
A 46RH or 47RH?
From this forum 518 and 618
I do realize that I was wrong in thinking that the E meant lockup and electronic, I'm not debating that. AND I was wrong in the first place so it doesn't really matter, lol
I misunderstood Glen at Transgo apparently- when he was asking for my trans make he told me what I said earlier (at least what I heard). I'll fix it.
I'm sticking with the cost being significantly more though- that's the way things always go with my luck. Suncoast non lockup converter is 683 lockup is 1295 (might as well get a good one!). Plus cost of adapter, starter, a transmission to rebuild, trans mount and all the unforseen things will bring it up pretty quick in my opinion. If you got a trans and all that other stuff for $200, more power to you!
I have a 47RE (out of a 99 CTD) but it needs a lot of work. It was free though so I figured why not, just takes up space!
I'll just stop posting, all I seem to do is upset you guys.
I still think a 46RH/RE = 518 and a 47RH/RE = 618 just one has a electric governor and the other hydraulic... I posted my first post because this seemed confusing:A 46RH or 47RH?
From this forum 518 and 618
I do realize that I was wrong in thinking that the E meant lockup and electronic, I'm not debating that. AND I was wrong in the first place so it doesn't really matter, lol
08-29-2007, 05:27 PM
#67
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Here Jake, read this:
https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...d.php?t=114702
Its alot easier than you think.
https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...d.php?t=114702
Its alot easier than you think.
08-29-2007, 07:26 PM
#69
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08-29-2007, 10:47 PM
#70
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I'll call SunCoast and ask again if their specified 0.070" is correct.JMK Tool & Die on hwy 27 Coats, NC.
Jake, don't let differing opinion and such dissuade you from posting here or anywhere else for that matter. Ask questions, question authority, and learn from your mistakes. I for one appreciate your input.
08-29-2007, 11:22 PM
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I just have weak knees after someone who I respected on here turned me into a pile of mush (even though I wasn't wrong)
Let us know what suncoast says, I am running the same 6 disc, reaction plate/clearance that you are more or less (checked my notes in my FSM) with the red alto clutches... With some tweaks here and there, mine shifts beautifully! The guys at suncoast are VERY knowledgeable.
Let us know what suncoast says, I am running the same 6 disc, reaction plate/clearance that you are more or less (checked my notes in my FSM) with the red alto clutches... With some tweaks here and there, mine shifts beautifully! The guys at suncoast are VERY knowledgeable.
08-30-2007, 01:06 AM
#73
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Dave,
How many count clutch pack is that one? And where in the pack was the steel that warped? How many miles since you put the transgo shift kit in?
Your front clutch was definitely on the way towards problems, the frictions don't show signs of problems yet, but they would have. I know I mentioned it before, but my last transmissions suffered from a front clutch failure, everything else look like brand new with the inking on the friction surface still visible on the other clutches.
I talked with Dave Goerend about how it could have happened in depth and there are several factors that can contribute to that problem. I had .100" of unit end play, which is excessive. That caused the drum's oil port to ride almost on the sealing ring. Previous builder had put a 6 element drum in there, I told him about it and even after 2 years he gave me enough parts and then some to rebuild another trans.
Another problem Dave mentioned was with the valve body(something with aftermarket manual valves) and how the front clutch can become pre-charged with oil and just drag the clutch enough to heat it up.
How many count clutch pack is that one? And where in the pack was the steel that warped? How many miles since you put the transgo shift kit in?
Your front clutch was definitely on the way towards problems, the frictions don't show signs of problems yet, but they would have. I know I mentioned it before, but my last transmissions suffered from a front clutch failure, everything else look like brand new with the inking on the friction surface still visible on the other clutches.
I talked with Dave Goerend about how it could have happened in depth and there are several factors that can contribute to that problem. I had .100" of unit end play, which is excessive. That caused the drum's oil port to ride almost on the sealing ring. Previous builder had put a 6 element drum in there
, I told him about it and even after 2 years he gave me enough parts and then some to rebuild another trans. Another problem Dave mentioned was with the valve body(something with aftermarket manual valves) and how the front clutch can become pre-charged with oil and just drag the clutch enough to heat it up.
I'm speaking off the top of my head so forgive my errors in terminology.
In going through the valve body . ... One thing the TransGo folks have you check is the positioning of the spool valve worked by the rooster-comb. When in Park, the first inboard valve should just be in the partition. I adjusted that back when I first put in the kit. Checking it this go round, I found that by rotating the rooster-comb back and forth, and bringing it back to Park, things were positioned correctly. BUT! There's enough slack in the interface of the rooster-comb and the spool-valve itself to allow the valve to back out without moving anything else. Not much, but enough to allow flow. I fixed that again.
I need to check the flow schematics to see if that channel feeds the front drum. If so, it may have been dragging.
08-30-2007, 01:18 AM
#74
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08-30-2007, 05:40 AM
#75
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