BC847

During a recent brake system service/upgrade, I had to replace my wheel seals as part of the wheel bearing service.

I found one of my rear wheel seals had gone to leaking as a result of the seal cutting into the axle's mating surface. The eventual groove is to the point a new seal may very well be damaged if not useless to start.
It's my understanding that the typical repair may include a "Speedy-Sleeve" which effectively makes new the seals mating surface by encasing the old surface with a thin sleeve.

Naturally, I didn't have one handy.



But I found that if we look real close . . . . .

You can clearly see the groove dug in the axle tube (black paint filled). Just in front of it, you can see a smaller/slight groove.



That suggested to me that if I make note of where the old seal is positioned in the hub before removing the old seal, then installing the new seal in a different spot, I could avoid the Speedy-Sleeve fix all together.

Historically, I've always installed my seals with a broad block of wood. ~




As such, the seals housing was always set flush with the outermost surface of the hubs bore.
I assume that position is where the old seal rode and ultimately cut the groove.

That slight groove says I can run the seal deeper in the hubs bore.


Well guess what! It just so happens the common CTD engine oil filter fits the wheel seal just right.




After setting the new seal flush, center an old oil filter and with a block of wood on the butt of the filter, tap the new seal in a bit further.
Frankly, I don't know that setting the new seal just shy of flush (proud of the hub) wouldn't work just as well. I guess it depends where the offending groove is.




It doesn't take much. And be sure to tap with your hammer as you want to make VERY sure the seal is set square to the hubs bore. In my hubs, I noticed there's a machined bore of slightly larger size than that of the hub in the area of the seal suggesting one could bottom (seat) the new seal.



The gist of it all seems to be that: If one were to pay attention to where the old seal is positioned in the hub prior to removal, one could install a new seal in a slightly different position and have a totally new surface to work with . . . . no speedy-Sleeve required.

It appears this fix is universal to the front as well as the back axle.


Hope this helps someone.





As always, this is by no means "The Authoritative How To" regarding fixing your leaking wheel seals. A stopped-up axle vent could cause leaking seals, so check them as well.
The images and discussion here are based solely on my experience with my heap, that being a 1993 W250 CC with the DANA70 rear, and DANA60 front axle. Another trucks millage may vary.


BE SAFE and live to enjoy the ride.


Thanks to Dave (wannadiesel) for hosting my images.

Micaiahfied

should we start calling it BC847's sticky?! lol, nice writeup, thanks!

dpuckett

Nice wirte up and good pics to boot. I have always seated my Dodge seals in the bore as deep as they would go, increasing my chances of the seal seating squarely. I think square is more important that a certain depth.

Daniel

BearKiller

That is a good catch on re-locating the wear point of the seal-lip.

Thanks for sharing it with us.

93beater

hmmmm. maybe worhty of the sticky? atleats if it was up2me

2500

starting a seal dead square is the most important part installing a new seal. if you don't have a seal/bushing installation kit.

best way to find a close fit is to use large deep sockets. this works much better than a block of wood. find a socket that fits close as possible to outer diameter of seal.

use a leather or dead blow hammer to gently start seal. if seal goes cockeyed, don't panic.... gently hit on opposite side to even out. but it's generally better to pry seal out and start again dead square.

speedi sleeve repair kits are great! main drawback is seal supplier generally need to order correct one. it's even more critical to start speedi sleeve dead square when installing. if it doesn't start deal square. gently pry back off, set square and try again. don't hammer in until you are certain sleeve is starting square.

Alec

There is another alternative to the speedi-sleeve.



National # 370150A

This is a "unitized" seal, so it has its own internal dynamic sealing surface, and seals statically to the spindle as well as the hub. Much easier to install & cheaper than a sleeve.

samiam4

Wow those seals are cool.

I don't think there is a proper seal to fit the speedy sleeve on a Dana 60/70.
Go with the unitized seals.
M