oldpar

Hello all,
Long time Dodge IHC flogger
First time little cummins owner

My truck, for better for worse, 1992 250 2wd Automatic extended cab service body.

The transmission was rebuilt perhaps 3 years ago 20,000 k miles (?) under the previous owners stewardship. I have a receipt that shows work done including some sort of deluxe valve body, but no warranty because "owner had the transmission computer reprogrammed"

So, I bought the truck with this warning, "You need to put it in N each morning so the trans pumps up, the re-builder put a valve in backwards".

What does this mean, should I fix it? How can I fix it?

Also, I would prefer a stock transmission computer, I have a couple of spares, where can i get them tested and properly programmed.

Thanks all and BTW after who knows how many miles on slanted sixers and 318's I am a Cummins convert. Plan to build up a 4x4 for the farm and keep this 2wd truck as our service vehicle....

best
John

cougar

89 through 95 dodge Cummins transmissions do not have computers. Torque converter drain back is an inherent problem with Dodge transmissions. Only the best overhaulers address the true cause, excess clearance. It is not a serious problem and can be fixed by a simple mod to the throttle body allowing fluid the refill the TC in park or neutral.

patdaly

Cougar nailed it...........

Angry Johnny

Not the throttle body, truck doesn't have one. You can buy what is called an aftermarket manual valve for the valve body that allows for filling the torque converter in park. Sonnax makes one and it works quite well. I have one in mine and there is zero issue with it filling in park. Just do a google search for sonnax manual valve.

NJTman

Wow, that's cool.....

Can it be installed without removing the VB ? while still in the truck ?


Thanks a bunch. That would make it so I don't have to put the trans in neutral, each time before I start the truck.

ofelas

If you drop the valve body you can install a new line pressure plug/sleeve as well.

May as well do it all when you service the trans as another few quarts of fluid will drain when the valve body is dropped.

A billet small parts package - accumulator, band strut, servo, apply lever will keep the line pressure constant and help to prevent leakdown.

Seal it all up with a neoprene o-ringed reusable Mopar gasket and you'll enjoy that trans a lot more.

boeingguy

Getrag much simplier...

bigragu

Hey, Johnny, I went ahead and took your advice on the manual valve research, and have part number in hand. Aside from the vendor list given on Sonnax's site, anyone else you recommend on where to pick up the part? Ready to order.

Sonnax's is recommending to change out the Lube Pressure Regulator along with the manual valve upgrade. What are your thoughts on this? Lastly, what do you know about their Zip Kit upgrade? Is this like just another shift kit, or just an upgrade from old factory parts?
Thank you for the tip
BR

kensmachine

I have used a number of these kits in other cars and trucks and been happy Ken http://www.transgo.com/products.php?...dcountview=Yes

jruthven

BR,

I'd be interested in that part number, as well as knowing how you like the upgrade if you do end up going with it.

Jake

bigragu

It'll be awhile since I just refilled my tranny with fresh fluid. The part numbers I found on Sonnax's site, for a 46RH, is :
Manual Valve-# 22771-09
Lube Pressure Regulator- # 22771A-02K. This came reccomended to change if upgrading the Manual Valve.
Here's the Zip Kit part number, which contains both the parts given above- # 46-47RHE-ZIP. Again, I'm still waiting for Angry Johnny to reply back on this zip kit.

Jake, while your at it, may I suggest changing out that factory spring and ball bearing detent to the bullet style, while your in there. Apparently while doing searches on here, I learned why I had this clunk every time I shifted from D to R, and vice versa, and learned about that shift detent ball. Over time, that part can wear, and for some folks it actually popped out, causing one to not being able to shift into any gear at all. Also, I want to add that my shift from P-R-N-D was sloppy loose.
The upgrade comes in the form of a hollowed round nose bullet shape, and the spring fits into the hollow. No chances of this ever popping out, by its design. Made a noticeable difference in my shift- nice and tight. Pretty cheap, found it on eBay. Just do a search on A518 shift detent ball and you'll find it. Very easy to replace, but you'll have to drop the valve body to get to it.

Angry Johnny

I did change both valves in mine along with a bunch of other stuff. Works great. Sonnax stuff is top notch. I don't really have a preferred vendor I buy most stuff like this at a local rebuilders vendor.

They also recommend drilling a small hole in the pressure relief valve bore wall. That isn't necessary, the valve is enough.

Angry Johnny

Sure, unless you have to crawl through rush hour stop and go traffic with your knee killing you for 25 miles. Been there, done that, I'll keep my automatic thank you.

patdaly

LOL, or you get older........... I have a 47RH setting in the garage mocking me waiting for the inevitable performance build and then on to what probably will be the only NV4500 to 47RH swap in history..........

Angry Johnny

I'm already 60.