Adjust your bands, shift points, and line pressure (pics)
05-23-2010, 05:50 PM
#61
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Ford engineer-
hey guys lets make a 730ft lb. torque diesel engine and put a luxury smooth shifting designed-to-slip trans behind it!! yay !!!
I can see it biting the dust by 100k.
hey guys lets make a 730ft lb. torque diesel engine and put a luxury smooth shifting designed-to-slip trans behind it!! yay !!!
I can see it biting the dust by 100k.
05-23-2010, 11:00 PM
#62
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think they are trying to follow in dodges foot steps? Seems like a step backwards. I know my bosses 7.3 excursion has an electric shift kit that makes that 3spdOD go Waaa....WAAA...WAAA...Waaa and by then your doing 120. Forget about holding a cup of coffee, let alone drinking it or placing it in the cup holders... as opposed to the sloppy mess it was before.
05-31-2010, 09:17 PM
#63
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I'll have to try this. I can't hardly top 55 towing my empty flatbed. Gross weight empty is about 8,000. Got on 79 the other day and said, oops, this was a mistake at about 50 uphill. Going downhill I can get the needle to 67 1/2, so a hair over 70, without a trailer. The radar screens the great commonwealth (not state) of PA puts up say I'm reading about 5% low.
You are talking about the same guys who complain that fit and finish isn't just right, or if there is a rattle somewhere. Or that a one ton dually rides rough. NO! It's a 1-ton, not a caddy!!!!! There's a reason I haven't read motor trend or truck trend in years. Probably about 3 issues after they started truck trend.
You are talking about the same guys who complain that fit and finish isn't just right, or if there is a rattle somewhere. Or that a one ton dually rides rough. NO! It's a 1-ton, not a caddy!!!!! There's a reason I haven't read motor trend or truck trend in years. Probably about 3 issues after they started truck trend.
Last edited by BC847; 03-08-2012 at 11:18 PM. Reason: Implied/shortcut Language
05-31-2010, 10:09 PM
#64
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One thing i think should be added to this is it takes 5qts to re-fil the stock pan, maybe 6, depending on how big your cooling system is(mine is slightly smaller than stock).
06-06-2011, 02:33 PM
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Before I dive in on my fummins, I want to confirm that the adjustment on the TV cable screw will affect my 2-3 shift point. Right now with moderate throttle it shifts to 2nd and then almost immediately into 3rd.
This is with the TV cable slid all the way forward in at the engine side.
thanks, Aaron
This is with the TV cable slid all the way forward in at the engine side.
thanks, Aaron
03-06-2012, 10:05 AM
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Before I dive in on my fummins, I want to confirm that the adjustment on the TV cable screw will affect my 2-3 shift point. Right now with moderate throttle it shifts to 2nd and then almost immediately into 3rd.
This is with the TV cable slid all the way forward in at the engine side.
thanks, Aaron
This is with the TV cable slid all the way forward in at the engine side.
thanks, Aaron
03-08-2012, 09:59 AM
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I 100% do not know. I THINK I read that 2 turns was fine, but maybe it was more? Maybe less? It would me nice if someone knew what the stock clutch pack will take for pressure and since we know 1 turn is 2.5-3psi, we can adjust accordingly (assuming your line pressure was ALREADY up to snuff). I have a feeling mine was low due to little leaks, wearing and what not so I may have only brought it back to stock settings. But one can not really know without hooking up a guage and seeing.
I plan on getting the wheels in the air and bringing it up to 1600 rpm and just plumb the gauge up through the open passenger door onto the bench and check it. When I do, I'll know if I can adjust a little more or not from there.
I plan on getting the wheels in the air and bringing it up to 1600 rpm and just plumb the gauge up through the open passenger door onto the bench and check it. When I do, I'll know if I can adjust a little more or not from there.
03-08-2012, 06:26 PM
#69
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1 full turn is only 3psi. For a bone stock tranny, you don't want to go over about 70psi for base pressure(make sure your kick down cable isn't too aggressive, as this will show a higher pressure at idle), without updating the inner seal on the forward drum(3rd gear apply).
Your base pressure is most likely around 50-52psi, so 3 turns isn't going to kill your tranny, if you're at the stock base pressure.
On aftermarket VB's for some fun and towing, I set the base pressure to 80-85psi. All out race, 95+ for base. For the blue loctite screw, don't go below .800.
Your base pressure is most likely around 50-52psi, so 3 turns isn't going to kill your tranny, if you're at the stock base pressure.
On aftermarket VB's for some fun and towing, I set the base pressure to 80-85psi. All out race, 95+ for base. For the blue loctite screw, don't go below .800.
I actually wish I didn't do a full turn on that screw. 1-2 shift is a little too late on light throttle for my taste.
03-09-2012, 01:03 AM
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this old man keeps hearing about blowing the 3rd clutch seal. i raced these babys for 12 years. rebuilt them for almost 40 and have NEVER blown one and i used stock over the counter parts. i did my own manual valvebodies. i messed one up once and it blew the snap ring out of the drum taking the groove in the drum with it. i re-used the seal and 3 years later it was still working.
03-09-2012, 06:40 AM
#71
Unless it's untaxed, then it's red.
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I'm planning to mess with these screws to try and help an issue I'm having. During acceleration I get a shuddering shaking that I suspect is the clutch pack slipping. I have a fresh gorends converter, the tight one, and a deep trans pan with the tubes thru it. Yes I checked the fluid level running in neutral. It's filled with atf+4 and I heard that is pretty slick so I am thinking to switch to dexron.
03-09-2012, 06:59 AM
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I'm planning to mess with these screws to try and help an issue I'm having. During acceleration I get a shuddering shaking that I suspect is the clutch pack slipping. I have a fresh gorends converter, the tight one, and a deep trans pan with the tubes thru it. Yes I checked the fluid level running in neutral. It's filled with atf+4 and I heard that is pretty slick so I am thinking to switch to dexron.
Not that increaseing your line pressure some won't help your put power to the ground, but I'm willing to bet it's not the clutches. Does this happen most at lower speed acceleration, especially with a load on? If so, absolutely look into dropping your centerbearing down or at least replacing the rubber.
03-09-2012, 07:06 AM
#73
Unless it's untaxed, then it's red.
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Thanks Dzl,
That was the first thing I tried. The old bearing had the shims from the service bulletin so I reused them. The old center support was is terrible shape so it needed to be done, it just didn't solve the shaking. It used to do it the worst at low speed acceleration with a heavy load but now its doing it more and more with no load. Sometimes when its shuddering badly if i lift off the throttle and get right back on it a little harder it goes away. That's why I was thinking clutch pressure.
That was the first thing I tried. The old bearing had the shims from the service bulletin so I reused them. The old center support was is terrible shape so it needed to be done, it just didn't solve the shaking. It used to do it the worst at low speed acceleration with a heavy load but now its doing it more and more with no load. Sometimes when its shuddering badly if i lift off the throttle and get right back on it a little harder it goes away. That's why I was thinking clutch pressure.
03-28-2012, 03:53 PM
#74
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New info!!
I spoke with a tranny shop in st lucas, Iowa about this adjustment. The tech did not want to directly contribute to this thread so I will leave out the name of the shop, but you all know it.
This info is from the tech I spoke with ...
Much like our VE pumps, the trannys all came adjusted a little differently from the manufacturer. So saying to turn the pressure regulator screw 3 times will mean different results for different trucks.
The pressure regulator screw head is captive in the horse shoe shaped bracket. When the screw is turned it moves the little plate and compresses the spring. What we can't see is the other end of that screw has a second plate on it inside the transmission, and if the screw is turned too many times that plate can fall off and "do very bad things".
The spec that the pressure regulator screw can be operated safely whenin is the plate against the sprightly can be no more than .300" away from the retainer clip that holds the screw head. It was suggested that I only go 1/4" just to be safe. The photo on the first page looks to be mighty close for comfort.
All of this is info I am simply repeating, I plan on doing this ASAP and will post back with personal findings. Hopefully this will give us all an actual baseline to start adjusting from.
I spoke with a tranny shop in st lucas, Iowa about this adjustment. The tech did not want to directly contribute to this thread so I will leave out the name of the shop, but you all know it.
This info is from the tech I spoke with ...
Much like our VE pumps, the trannys all came adjusted a little differently from the manufacturer. So saying to turn the pressure regulator screw 3 times will mean different results for different trucks.
The pressure regulator screw head is captive in the horse shoe shaped bracket. When the screw is turned it moves the little plate and compresses the spring. What we can't see is the other end of that screw has a second plate on it inside the transmission, and if the screw is turned too many times that plate can fall off and "do very bad things".
The spec that the pressure regulator screw can be operated safely whenin is the plate against the sprightly can be no more than .300" away from the retainer clip that holds the screw head. It was suggested that I only go 1/4" just to be safe. The photo on the first page looks to be mighty close for comfort.
All of this is info I am simply repeating, I plan on doing this ASAP and will post back with personal findings. Hopefully this will give us all an actual baseline to start adjusting from.
