Hook Em

I've had my 92 W250 for over a year now, and it's always fired right up. I was at a drive through the other day and killed it so that they could hear me. When I went to start it up, it just cranked and cranked. I pushed it through the drive through with a couple of skinny hipster kids and had it towed home. I've replaced the fuel filter and the lift pump. Still won't start. Now I'm getting fuel shooting out between the filter and the fuel heater too. Does anyone know what I might be able to do to get my baby running again? I'm about to head to NAPA to grab a fuel shut off solenoid. I don't have any idea how to stop the leak. Please help! Thanks

Redtruck-VA

There is a O ring above the fuel heater, it is a round and fairly thin. It can be replaced using a o ring off of a fuel filter which is square. I have found this leak to be somewhat persistent. The threaded nipple can be replaced and the fuel heater removed completely. I would suggest tightening the fuel filter really tight and see if the pressure transfers to the top O ring and seals. If you want to remove the fuel heater nipple and it's stuck. I used two M16x1.5 jam nuts locked together and removed the nipple. The new nipple (Geno's) uses a allen head wrench to install and remove. Now you know what I know, good luck...

Hook Em

Thanks. I'll check that O ring. Mine is a square gasket. I wonder if the previouse owner swapped it out?

patdaly

Whoa, you say you have fuel shooting out between the heater and the filter, perhaps did the old gasket stick to the surface and now you have 2 gaskets? Sounds stupid, but it happens.

Once you get the leak stopped, try applying 12 volts direct to the fuel solenoid and see if you hear a click, could be as simple as the connector is loose to the solenoid being bad. Worst case scenario right now, remove the FSS and leave the plunger out, screw it back in and it will run, you just have to use the manual shutoff lever to turn it off.

Redtruck-VA

I went to the dealer and got the O ring and it was just like the old dried one I first removed. (relatively small and round). Paid like $6.00 for it. Probably cost about 29 cents to make..

Hillbilly66

Three things to check..
1) Make sure nipple is threaded tight into fuel heater
2) As Patdaly stated make sure you did not double gasket the filter, have had old oring stay on filter a few times.
3) I always replace the small oring that goes over the threaded nipple when I change fuel filters, check to make sure you have that oring on it as well, or that you didn't put the new small oring on with the old one still on.

Hook Em

I think a new O ring is the ticket. I made sure not to double up gaskets. How do I apply 12 volts to the solenoid! Just jumper cables?

j_martin

I always have some of these handy

Hook Em

Thanks. I'll give it a shot.

BigIron70

Sounds like the nipple loosen on you. Remove fuel filter and tight the nipple then reinstall fuel filter.

Hook Em

Thanks everyone. I found a thicker O ring and installed it. I'm still getting fuel through at the top of the heater. I'm gonna try the gasket off of a filter. I filed the angle off of a gasket scraper to fit into the slot at the bottom of the nipple. It's as tight as I can get it by hand with that. Is there just too much pressure built up when I use the manual pump for any gasket to keep it from squirting out there? I tested the old solenoid, and it didn't click. I bought a new one and tested it. It clicked. I haven't tried to start it yet because of the leak. Will that leak when it's running?

Redtruck-VA

Did you inspect the fuel heater for cracks? I looked mine over closely and didn't see any cracks. It seems simple enough to screw together. But there must be something that is not obvious about getting them to seal.

Hillbilly66

Yes it will leak when it's running. Mine is only hand tight and does not leak. I would bet that either the gasket is bad on the top of the heater, or it is also possible that the heater might be cracked. Genos sells the correct oring for the top of the heater, as well as a heater delete nipple. I would order both, that way if it still leaked with correct oring then you could delete heater and get running.

If heater is bad, and you think you will need one I believe I saw a thread in here how to modify a second gen heater to work on the first gens.

93-331-29psi

Had this same problem a few weeks ago and I opted for removing the fuel heater completely. It's winter and I'm not driving it so don't really need it. Good luck

Hook Em

I'll look for that thread. I would remove it if it was summer. I'm gonna take it off and inspect it good for a crack. Im driving my '95 GMC right now and remembering how much it sucks to start at the bottom of the canyon going 75mph and 55 at the top. I NEED MY POWER BACK!!!